idosubaru

you've done it before? i've seen mention on other sites - but no one has really said what/how/where to do it? you just pulled the carpet it up and started cutting? pull the ECU or any dash stuffs first?

i thought about that. i'd have to cover/treat it somehow. if i do it through the cabin then the alignment isn't adjustable or if they try to - it'll loose that captive nut and have to be accessing through the interior again. unless I can get enough access to weld another captive nut in place, but based on what i've seen so far i can't imagine getting enough access with my welder in there.

it'll see vibrations and many heat/cool cycles so it needs to be somewhat robust but it's not like it'll be hard to tell if it's sealing/working or not and it's easy to get too - virtually zero labor, so whatever you try isn't a loss.

Just went and looked - appears way forward in the passengers side foot well - it is further forward than the blower motor and ECU. I guess I'll be pulling the ECU and drilling at an angle maybe? Doesn't seem like any room or anyway to get anywhere close enough to get access, but i forget what's under the ECU... If I just slap a nut in there then it'll be a problem every alignment or bushing replacement right? How about drilling/cutting a hole from underneath? Then I could also bolt a cover over top that at least allows future access for alignments/replacement or maybe even have room to weld in a new captive nut? This car is in excellent condition and I was planning on a lot more miles.

remove the bulb. takes like 10 minutes to get out...maybe 20 your first time. 1995+ legacy's are that easy, i'd suspect earlier to be the same. alternately find the power or ground wire to the bulb and cut it. FSM might help or multimeter on ground and keep testing various pins right behind the dash/ABS light and you might get continuity and be able to cut the wire...but then you gotta hope you get the right one, crawl all contorted in the drivers side foot well and work up under the dash.... nearly any FSM is found on line these days - any 90-94 Legacy should be identical in this regard if it has ABS - the wiring diagram will tell you connector shapes, pin outs, wire colors, etc and you can track it down. that's a lot of effort/time over pulling the bulb.

Copy - that doesn't sound too painful...crazy, dumb...absurd...yes, but hopefully not a waste of a day. Is that what Subaru would do? Hard to imagine them drilling holes in floor pans?

ah okay - yeah there are 2 different style rear EJ cam caps - the non-bolt on varieties rarely (i've never seen it) need removed and so i thought you meant the other bolt on style. i didn't even know they were removable until this thread, i always assumed they were permanent parts of the block rather than a cap.

a hole saw - indeed!!! wow. do you recall roughly where you drilled - like in front of the seat or under the ECU...? do tell - how is it done? i have no idea where/how to get to that nut. spinning - that's exactly what mine is doing.

a front control arm rear transfer link bushing bolt is stripped and it didn't come out...so can't check threads. is it 12 x 1.25 mm threads? how safe to drive with one bolt holding that rear bushing in place? it's been knocking all year - couldn't figure it out, got worse recently and figured it out today. i assume i'll be helicoiling/timeserting this thing. if i remember correctly those bolts have have a hefty torque value, helicoil i assume is still good? any other tips? i'm guessing there's not enough threads/room to just use a longer bolt which often works, this thing is huge and heavy torque.

leave the ECU, it doesn't matter. generally just bolt the intake manifold to the "new" motor. but you can swap the ECU..again..it doesn't matter, the ECU isn't auto/manual specific, there's an identifier pin telling it which it is (which you'll need to change that pin if you swap to manual). make sure the torque converter is fully seated. if it touches the flexplate when installingt he engine the torque converter isn't fully seated. you must draw the torque converter and flexplate together with the bolts holding the togehter once the engine is installed. if you hate auto's that much you always will, but they are great solutions for a variety of reasons. with synchro issues, input shaft bearings and seal issues, manuals are hardly considered more reliable any more and they're certainly higher maintenance with clutches, pressure plate, throw out bearings, pilot bearings that aren't great at making 200,000+ miles. in traffic and towing auto's are superior too. but like i said with that much of a manual preference it's likely you'll hate it. just manually shift it and dog that thing out, you'll get the RPM's up like you like and wear that POS out. LOL

i remove the fans, they're easy - no coolant or ATF lines to mess with which is the really annoying part about the radiator. i didn't even know people remove alt's and power steering pumps to do timing belts, i've never considered that. there's nothing to it - remove lower sprocket and tensioner 14 mm and reinstall, done. these SOHC are easy - it can be done in like 45 minutes easy if you're just doing the belt. compressing the tensioner is easy, don't sweat it. or buy another one pre-compressed if you don't have much time/tools or are worried about it.

if it's stuck then twist it a couple or bunch of times first. may even take a couple nudges on the bolt hole ears with light hammer taps to get it going. go back and forth a couple times, spray some WD40 or something down there if you have to. it's held in place with two 10 or 12mm bolts. remove those and it comes out.

oh - and do you have any check engine lights? unlikely, but should ask since we can't see it.

woah i definitely only hit reply one time, weird. meant to add which you probably already know - 3rd...probably also with torque bind around tight turns on dry pavement - it's in limp home mode. it should only do that if the AT light is blinking 16 times at start up indiccating it has a stored code.

i posted in your other thread - above feet while driving. held in place by like two screws bolts or something. it's just behind the cover like between your knees and firewall.

i posted in your other thread - above feet while driving. held in place by like two screws bolts or something. it's just behind the cover like between your knees and firewall.

maybe a mod can move this to New Gen? is the transmission light blinking 16 times at start up - if so it has a stored code to tell you if you can figure out the crazy NSA handshake to get the light to blink you the code. TCM is right above your feet when you're driving. little silver (color may vary) box bolted up under the dash. like two screws hold it in place, real simple. TCM failure on Subarus is extremley rare, I wouldn't expect that to be the issue but maybe you're just looking for wires to test with. any history on the car? accidents, or...? if trans pan got dented that could infringe upon some wiring.

use a very stout screwdriver or 3/8" extension, put a few together for length if you need too, that's why i do almost exclusively. it's tight but it fits. have to rotate until there's an adequate hole (there's like 4 - every 90 degrees-ish) to jam it in. you probably did but fill coolant with the nose in the air as much as possible, ramps, hill, curb, whatever you got. i rarely pull the radiator out for a timing belt job, there's plenty of room to do it with it insitu. particularly since you've already had it apart everything is going to come off easily. pull fans and put cardboard in front of it if you want and the only tricky part is the crank pulley - if it releases as it slides off - jams into the radiator. with minor precautions it won't happen though. but i undersatnd the sentiment entirely if you still want to.

what exactly did you do? timing belt, timing pulleys, timing tensioner, radiator hoses...what else - seals, oil pump, water pump, anything more? why was the O2 sensor disconnected for a timing belt job? vacuum leaks are pretty common - hose not seated, compromised during work, etc. spray some starting fluid around while idling see if it revs up as it sucks in the fluid. but you didn't pull motor so shouldn't have touched any/many vacuum or air hoses right? and yes - check that timing - it has to be dead on and use the correct crank mark, i would expect a CEL or more issues if it was off but it's missed a lot so check. if it ran fine, then didn't, sure sounds like it's timing belt related. it's the right belt - correct? i can't think of what it would be confused with.

all OBW 4EAT's should be 4.44 final drive ratio.... but i recall some oddities around 01-02...i can't remember if it's just with base legacy's or OBW's or manuals..i forget but it's right around there that one year has an oddball final drive ratio. car-parts.com would probably delineate that or show you some good transmission options if you haven't checked yet. there's a 99 Impreza 4EAT for $300 or so out here a guy is selling but i doubt you're interested, just checking in case you're seeing high prices. an OBW trans shouldn't cost too much, so don't go crazy on it.

if you have a drill and some bits or and/or a welder this is an easy repair. the easy way: if there's any accessible stud at all - remove the pipe/cover/thermostat housing and then place a large nut on top of the remaining shank. weld the nut to the stubby shank, let it cool down, then use a socket on the nut. this method is awesome and quick/easy if you have a welder or known someone that does. with enough shank left you may even be able to use vice grips or notch the shank and use a quality screw driver - if you have an impact screw driver that would be awesome. you smack them with a hammer and they twist a very small amount when hit - so it's like pushing in really hard to bite while backing the screw out. fantastic little gizmos. if you have drill bits, drill the bolt out. small bit first, pilot hole, then larger. left handed bits are best as they may grab and back the bolt out but most folks don't buy those....unless they live in the rust belt and have to do this all the time. if your drill bits suck really bad you can even drill the aluminum manifold to the side of the bolt (side away from the coolant passages) until you've got room to start knocking/beating the thing around and it'll come out. use a small bit, multiple holes and work your way larger, hogging out the aluminum. when you're done make a repair: 1. chase the threads with a tap or bolt and see if another bolt will work. 2. make larger threads 3. thread repair inserts 4. nut/bolt combo if there's room 5. drill a completely new hole in the ear and use a smaller bolt 6. ignore the stud and just use vice grips to hold the thermostat housing together - LOL another thing i've done before - drill and tap a hole right inside the existing bolt shank that sheared off in the hole. i've done it to 12mm ABS sensor bolts, works fine on stuff that's non structural, doesn't need much more than just to hold it in place. i generally don't do this but sometimes you don't have many chioces and in this case it's such a benign and easy to seal part without any known issues there's plenty to work with. there you go, about 10 options, all of whilch i've done before (except #6). there's a way to fix it. post a picture and someone will give you some specific tips.

if you've got both there it'll be obvious if you compare how it bolts to block and bolts to trans, one drives it. been a little while but flexplate stays with the trans - so typically - install EJ25 flexplate on EJ22engine going into EJ25 vehicle. i'm a little confused as you said: "the car's original EJ22" - makes it sound like it already had an EJ22 "I am swapping this into a 98 forester EJ25D" makes it sound like it had an EJ25 sorry, typing is what it is.

best bet is to get a used Subaru axle and reboot it or the person you're getting it from can reboot it if so inclined. post in the parts wanted forum, find one in a pick-n-pull which seem plentiful out west, or get one from www.car-part.com.

paypal $35 and send a shipping address and i'll send you one. what he said - no need to bleed, they're simple. that being said - are you sure it's the pump? i would expect the ujoint more than the pump. i have one of those too, got it from Imdew ironically enough! shipping and it's yours.

wow, surprised at all the cordless, makes sense they're so powerful now. i'm going to get a less expensive 3/8", not going to pay the high dollar for something that might not do all i'm asking, still have larger stuff too. what i really need are two supply lines from my compressor and a moveable cart for the guns. then i got small/fast and big/beastly right next to me.