idosubaru

the slave cylinder and hoses on those are known to fail and often replaced as a set. i'd probably think they need replaced but would be nice to hear more verification since that's the only parts of those systems i've worked on. be prepared for a really annoying bleeding process. pump all you want those jokers don't like to bleed. bleed a little while you can ride your moto and let the thing sit overnight for air bubbles to move up, then bleed again. i think GD has a repeatable process, which any shop does since they need to turn cars quicker.

there are 90 degree fuse taps that i've used in tight Subaru fuse boxes before. rather than stick out they are perpendicular to the other fuses, like so you can see how tight to the others this one is: http://www.blackgate.net/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/2003_tiburon_antenna_60a_tn.jpg or you could use this and simply bend it yourself: http://www.repairconnector.com/product_images/uploaded_images/1593x2.jpg the dashes are easily removed in a matter of seconds/minutes actually. not a big deal. first try might be a little tight just due to age and people spilling sticky drinks on the dash/getting in the plastic tabs, but otherwise they're actually easy and simple. but like they said - with your propensity to use and push the electrical system you'd be much better off with a dedicated circuit and heavy gauge wire. it's easy to run a wire from the batter to the interior and put an inline fuse in it. you already played with the alarm wiring, finding it, testing for 12volts and finding it - you've easily got the skill set/drive to run a wire to the interior.

i was chasing an ABS problem with some seemingly odd issues - grounding and all didn't help so I'm guessing it is the ECU for the ABS....so i dug into this. not going to replace it but that would probably be my next step.

probably about the extent of it.

If you had ABS issues that pointed to ECU failure. ABS inoperative, with light and codes, etc. This isn't a recall, it's documentation for ECU replacement as a distinctly separate item to be replaced where before it would seem the entire hydraulic unit/ECU had to be replaced together as an assembly. This TSB just formally separates the two into two distinct parts and part numbers....something mechanically inclined folks probably would have done without this TSB anyway.

i've seen the resistor packs really cheap before....rockauto....ebay...somewhere, i was surprised how inexpensive they were. can you test the resistance of the existing 3 resistors you have and maybe be able to make a guess for the missing one of yours? maybe someone can test one or send you one?

i forgot to mention that - how many miles on the vehicle? they may simply be tired and new struts might regain a comfortable ride. those 05+ models aren't known to be stellar struts or last long. oh right, i have H6 vehicles, i think the baja springs are more common on those and i wanted the stiffer/higher springs since i'm often towing excessive loads/weights.

oh good, good to know the ratios are all the same. part of me wonders if it's even torque bind and not something else, but you seem to have spent some time with it and probably know. fine 99% of the time...then once or twice...that sounds odd, unless by 99% meant usually driving straight, mostly thru roads and the once or twice were the only times it was turned at a sharp angle.

i posted the MY's it mentioned it applies to and the corresponding chart with the part number look up - that's all it had. didn't mention a specific issue.

were both Outbacks - the 01 and 05? i think the 05's are known to have weaker struts - i think some people put 00-04 struts on 05+ Outbacks because of it. i installed the stiffer Baja Turbo springs on mine as well as new KYB struts. i'd go with new struts and use the 00-04 OBW struts if that is an upgrade as i think it is. and maybe Baja turbo springs which are heavier/stiffer. they also give a 1/2" or so lift. or thicker sway bars.

he simply didn't install the timing belt with the correct marks or otherwise hosed the timing belt install. should be an easy fix.

1. has this car ever "not" had torque bind? meaning, was it bought this way or was major transmission/rear differential work done on it and maybe the final drive ratios are mismatched? 2. need a proper diagnosis on the rear driveshaft - it works perfectly fine driving straight - no vibrations or noises? a failing driveshaft ujoint will not only show symptoms while turning. rule out #1 first before doing anything else and answer #2 for us. otherwise - YES, you can easily remove the rear half of the driveshaft and install the FWD fuse by the passengers side strut tower. can drive the car indefintely like this, as long as they want to with no damage. might be a simple cover plate over the front of the diff, otherwise it's simply 4 12mm bolts on each end of the shaft that need removed. can be off in a matter of minutes. sounds like the dealer is throwing parts at it, $1,500 sounds unreasonable with what we've been told so far. my friend had a dealership in atlanta replace his Duty C solenoid for him - it was $250 labor (he had already bought the car). clutches are only a few more dollars. it's not that hard of a job, i wouldn't let that dealer touch it - they are VERY familiar with this job and shouldn't be quoting high prices for how routine it is for Subarus. yes - it is highly unlikely both are bad....so a proper diagnosis needs to be done.

HA HA, the ECU for my ABS is $332.78 & $372.13. car-parts.com here we come!

And the part numbers are here

Got this TSB for Subaru ABS systems. I wasn't able to find it anywhere so here it is...or some of it. Overview: It's basically just replacement procedures and part numbers for the controller - making it a separate unit where as before it was considered part of the ABS hydraulic unit assembly I suppose. FUNNY: Subaru actually says "with a small piece of wood" instead of some obscure subaru specific mount. Wow, since when does Subaru commend using a piece of 2x4 lying in the garage! 1997-04 MY Legacy, Outback, Baja (excluding VDC) 1998-04 Impreza and Forester Subject: Replacement of ECU for ABS Repair Intro: In order to improve serviceability of ABS system, the ECU was subdivided and has been newly established as a spare part. This service bulletin details the part numbers and replacement procedures of the ECU as a spare part. Procedure: 1 Turn off ignition switch 2 Disconnect negative terminal from battery 3 Disconnect air intake duct from Air Box 4 Remove the air cleaner case from the inner fender NOTE: When removing the ECU, the brake pipes remain connected 1. disconnect all electrical connections from the ECU (top and bottom) 2. Remove the two installation bolts (M8) from the bracket of the hydraulic unit and the ECU assembly 3. Lift he hydraulic uni and the ECU assembly from the bracket by about 5cm (0.2 inches) and support it with a small piece of wood. CAUTION: Be careful not to deform the brake pipe during this procedure. 4. Unlock the connector for the motor power source and disconnect the connector as shown in figure 2. 5. Remove the 6 torx head screws (T20) which join the hydraulic unit and the ECU NOTE: Do not reuse the torx head screws once removed 6 Remove the ECU from the hydraulic unit by pulling it gently. It shows some intricate reinstallation with a specific tightening sequence but i can't imagine anyone caring about that....i sure don't and am not about to type it all up.

if there's no rust all that stuff is easy. if there's rust well things get more interesting. in general tie rods on subaru's are cake, so maybe you can start with those. you can even align the car yourself if you want. there's some great threads on stringing a line from front to back and measuring the rear of the tire and front of the tire distance from that line, get it even and your toe is golden. not necessarily about to explode - sometimes steering issues just cause a little wandering. aged steering rack joints will cause a looseness like that too, allowing the steering system to shift as pavement differs. you'll notice a very slight "delay" in steering too...like turn...slight hesitation while it takes up the slack in the warn bushings...then it turns. but bushings can probably do that too or loose tie rods. it might be imminent, might not, depends what's causing it. like we said - without simply grabbing it and seeing, which we can't do via the interwebs, there's no way to say.

they don't fail often so used is a great option - $25 - $40. www.car-parts.com conversion is easy. lots of information online about it, people have been doing it for years. it requires basically nothing. empty old stuff, fill with 134a. the only question is one of oils - they say some oils aren't compatible or whatever, it's been awhile since i've done it but lots of folks have converted without doing much of anything. google will be your friend here. favor the more simple versions. the internet is generally flooded with commentary and scare talk - look for the simple options, there's not much to it.

1. Use Subaru Turbo EJ25 headgaskets. those don't leak. 2. Resurface the heads 3. Use Subaru's coolant conditioner - follow directions on label ($2.47 from Subaru). 4. Adjust the valves 5. replace cam seals and water pump 6. reseal the oil pump and tighten the backing plate screws 7. Install a complete ebay timing belt kit (import experts, PCI kits, Gates kits are favored) 8. Install new serpentine belt pulleys if they're questionable. Done for 100,000 reliable miles. In case you didn't know already, Subaru headbolts do not need replaced. If you're into a larger task, regrind the valves and install new valve stem seals. Subaru's generally don't have issues with those but while you're in there...you might want to. You don't need to have them pressure tested, they never crack or "warp". Resurface them yourself, you sound more than capable of this, it's really easy: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/122588-diy-head-resurfacing-or-post-apocalyptic-machine-shop-techniques/ Enough people have used the Six Star that I wouldn't have a problem installing them if someone really wanted them, but with the Subaru EJ25 Turbo gasket option there's been no need for me to try.

looks like SUS is mentioned in listings so probably good to go. i looked up and i had issues fitting a hitch to my 96 sedan, not my 99, i never ended up putting a hitch on my 99 SUS. one guy mentions issues on his 99 GT which is a sedan: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/118544-95-99-legacy-hitch-doesnt-fit-my-legacy/

okay, thanks. the entire DC, Baltimore, Philly, NJ, New York, Connecticut is a multi-state metropolitan corridor with massive suburbs and commuter communities that cover the entire northeast. the population density is high and remaining mobile in snow is vastly different here than other areas. 8 states/DC from the Northeast are listed in top 10 for population densities in the US, all before California even at 10. it's not like any other area of the country. what works elsewhere may not be a good fit there. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_U.S._states_by_population_density really, they changed? did it say why? i've always wondered why it's so different. noh no - you'l now petition the gov and move out of state!?

if you're careful with a screw driver, it'll pry them out. use a good one that doesn't bend. you can drill a tiny hole in the face of the seal, install a self tapping sheet metal screw and pry on the screw. a seal pulley like he mentioned above is going to be nice if you're going to do a few. the brown Subaru seal material is better than the aftermarket with black seals like older gen stuff. does that work with the engine insitu?

lean towards being safe - realize how hard it is for us to say anything contructive without seeing a car. generally subaru suspensions don't just fall apart. so you could do a simple check and look for how much play/noise the ball joint, tie rods, and those components have. simply jack the car up and see. we can't do that. and tires, if they're old then yes they are prone to blow out if they're aged. if they sat for awhile, are a few years old, driving at highway speeds in summer heat won't do them any favors. otherwise - if those things check out - drive it. shaking/vibrating that goes away sounds like bushings...not a big deal if you inspect they're genearl condition and see which ones it is. or better yet - fix them. there's probably only one thing causing 90% of the vibration, not 10. find that one and fix it.

generally not cost effective on a Subaru. it's more marketing - make you feel better personally or to help used car sales. i have never done $2,800 worth of repairs in 5 years/100k on my cars, so it would be a total waste. but i'm practical and know Subaru's...like many others on this board. you are asking a rather practical subaru community, so you'll likely get a lot of replies to that extent. comes down to personality more than anything else. how do you view risk, costs, finances, repairs...we certainly can't answer that. if you buy a good car and properly maintain it you won't have $2,800 of incidental repairs. so practically it's a waste. but - if you're more emotional and worrisome, don't make purchases based on actual reliability (not what some limited consumer group/magazine/internet article ranks it as) than practical then get it. in general those extended warranties are not a good financial move at all. so only you know your purchasing habits, how good you are asking/listening to others that know how to buy a reliable Subaru, keep it maintained (to 100k reliability - not just to dealer marks), or emotional/worrisome you are. we can't answer any of that which is mostly who these types of coverages are available for. you'll get cheaper and more reliable service by asking questions in order to make a good purchase, good maintenance, and good repairs. if you can do that you're way better off financially and reliably than any warranty. if you asked "how do i get the most reliable 5 years 100,000 miles out of this YEAR, MODEL Subaru?" - we can help you do that for far less than $2,800. basically it means a proper timing belt job and that's about it.

front diffs don't go away or get better. i'm with nipper, no way it could be those. check the front wheel bearings, Subarus often don't have "traditional" failures, symptoms, and bearing signs. use a temp gauge - if it's notably hotter on the passengers side it's the wheel bearings. any ABS, VDC, or CEL lights on the dash?

they aren't replaceable by design, but you can replace them. rockford makes ujoints specifically for Subaru applications. you can look them up for the part number or find it on this forum from previous posts, etc. they're roughly $30 each. requires some metal work - cutting out the old joint and properly fitting the new one. either do it yourself or have a machine shop/driveline shop do it for you.