idosubaru

did you think about a supercharger at all or i guess those early turbos are easy and cheap to get? i've always wanted time to do what you're doing, but would use a supercharger instead just to avoid all the turbo exhaust plumbing. nice work getting around all that.

i recall someone making one available a few years ago...but i can't recall where, which forum, etc - maybe that's the one Drew has? Ryan (rpholz) might have one, he's a member here? Almost positive Will (WJM) had one...but he's no longer with us, I would assume someone else has the same one.

Did you modify the EJ22 exhaust yourself or....?

Yep, not fun, gotta work from underneath the whole time. Cleaning up fluid and surfaces is my least favorite, but it's not that bad otherwise nothing hard about it at least. Good luck, keep us updated.

the MAF of the 92 EJ22 compensates for the turbo just fine? nice. 11:1 that's awesome, are you serious? is that EJ25D with 92 EJ22 heads?

Indeed worth trying some simple fixes. Like Rooster said, not surprised the trans X didn't help, I wouldn't add it if you change the fluid again...except as a last ditch effort maybe. Focus is on replacing the filter oring. The internal filter itself is useless to replace but you'll do it while you're in there. Not sure on the synthetic fluid but sounds worth a shot if someone recommends it. I didn't see any troubleshooting section in a couple Legacy FSM's but I only gave them a cursory glance and typed in "trouble" to search. Maybe a google search with your symptoms? How many miles on it when you got it? This factory recall was done by you - or already done when you got it?

right on, glad you did...actually I looked it up and it *this issue i was referring to is for 1991 4EAT Legacy's. It's like a one year thing. This filter was added to keep the ATF cooler from clogging I believe...so - if that's true - this might just be a clogged cooler....of course you say it was already replaced - so the damage may have already been done if you bought this car used with the aftermarket cooler installed. It had previously clogged, been repaired, aftermarket cooler added - but the prior issue caused premature wear/heat which is now causing issues for you. Either way, it needs looked into immediately. Personally I'd do a really simple test, pull the lines to the transmission cooler and just run a straight hose - right from the outlet at the trans and right back to the inlet. If the line, filter (if it exists), or cooler are clogged - then this will solve it immediately. Obviously I wouldn't drive it like this much as it bypasses the cooler in the radiator...but since that's not much of a cooler anyway (it even heats the fluid) it's not a big deal as a test. And I've seen daily drivers like this before...due to leaking ATF coolers or whatever, no big deal. Or you could pull the lines and try to blow through them with compressed air or your mouth if you're so inclined. Then you'll know. At the very least - given this 1991 specific issue you'll want to address this even if the trans is bad and you're replacing the transmission because this might be why the transmission is borked to begin with. i think final drive ratios changed somewhere between 90 and 94 for 4EATs, check if needed and this is an AWD. as always http://www.car-parts.com

Neat stuff, good job presslab. What are the dyno numbers for a stock EJ25?

Subaru's don't have an "inline" filter, though there are some early add on in-line filters for this era...it's around those 91-93 era legacy's. it was part of a recall or TSB or for turbo's or something...google would reveal details in about 15 seconds of searching. 1998 and up transmissions have a screw on filter on the side of the trans, not sure if that's considered "inline" or not. i've never heard of a filter causing 4EAT issues, but obviously it's just a part so it could fail or clog. i would suspect some kind of bypass feature to the system, the filter, or both that prevents the filter from hosing the transmission though.

The internal screen filter has an o-ring at the top outlet side. I've never seen it happen but I would expect if this oring was bleeding off pressure you might have some low RPM issues? might be worth a check or looking into what the symptoms are when that oring fails. I can't imagine this being the case for you, but make sure the pan isn't dented, the clearance internally being the fluid uptake and pan is very small so if it's dented it will cause issues. Have you looked into the FSM - and see if it lists the symtpoms you're talking about in a troubleshooting section? Nearly any 4EAT troubleshooting section would be almost identical to yours. Ideally you'd find someone that knows or a way to test the pressures in the system and maybe isolate it down to a solenoid issue - maybe a solenoid isn't operating properly and affecting fluid flow/pressure. Replacing a solenoid isn't a big deal and can be done in the car without removing the trans. I'm just not familiar with that. There are tests in the FSM involving pressure and such that delineate what it all means...not sure how feasible that is. No transmission light blinking? I'm not a trans expert but they do say that running too cool isn't desirable. If this is a low use daily driver maybe the ATF is too cool? I wouldn't expect issues but if you wanted to discuss why it's having issues to begin with...don't know? But at this point it's obviously seeing some kind of issue. I would be replacing the trans with a used one over a rebuild unless you can find a great deal on one that's already rebuilt, which sometimes you can with older transmissions. i know I've seen some good deals on ebay and craigslist for rebuilt EA/ER trans from the 80's. Shouldn't be hard to find a known good condition used trans, even if you want to pay top dollar for it, it would be less than a rebuild.

i saw that one time...it was as if it was such a small leak there was no visible loss but enough for the fluid pressure not to work right. after some serious work out it finally blew and leaked above the gas tank...so the prior small leaks just hadn't made it to the ground yet but were enough to blow off pressure. not saying that's common or likely. something else is probably more likely.

yeah just post in the parts wanted forum, i have them but i'm so busy anyway....they're really common you'll find one in the yard or someone on here will have one (or 5). !

i would just use a 1995 coil pack even if you have to get a used one, simpler to keep everything as a 1995 EJ22 for future parts references....but I would have thought the Ej25 one is the same, no? In any event coil packs are easy to get anyway, I'm sure I've got them lying around the garage.

found your thread.... not sure about IAC, if it plugs in and bolts in the same place then you should be fine. or just post int he parts wanted forum, those things never fail so they're worthless and folks have them lying around. igniter should be interchangeable....the igniter though is on the vehicle body, not the engine...do you mean the coil pack? posting pictures may help if you can.

I would just install the 1995 EJ22 complete as is, it's plug and play. if it was from an automatic then it also has EGR. then you got non-interference engine, one of Subaru's most reliable engines ever, cheap timing belt maintenance, more reliable timing belt tensioner (though that can be installed into any DOHC EJ25 if you swap the mounting bracket with it). if you go with head swaps, it's such a large job - pulling engine, doing heads...might as well do it right and install a complete timing belt kit. then install another timing belt kit at the next timing belt change. do it right, maintain it properly and interference isn't too big of a deal, though i understand the desire to keep it non-interference if you can....in which case just install the EJ22 as is.

Can you let the heat run for an extended period? i'm surprised you have heat if the coolant isn't flowing and the hose is cold. upper hose often will get hot just due to dissipation from the engine even on an improperly working engine. EJ water pump failure is extremely rare though being an aftermarket that's a good call to consider it. if it's that bad due to the pump you could try to rig some system where you simply run the car with the hose disconnected, running into a bucket on the passengers side while pouring water into the radiator cap....probably not, but is there a way to test pump without removing? water bypass hose, does that normally flow?

not sure about shape, i thought they were the same, but the material would be different -XT6 interior fabric was XT6 specific. 88, 89, and 91 are all different though - 88 gray-ish, 89 a very dark checkered patter, 91 a very bright (lots of pink/purple stuff in it) checkered pattern.

I've wondered the same thing. Subaru fuel pump failure is quite rare...and many of the ones replaced must be due to the caps. I have an extra cap in each of mine. I should get one used pump to have on hand or put in the one we travel with. They're bulky though, can I install a second pump somewhere...LOL Since I have two of the same H6 vehicles I plan to keep a long time the price of a new one probably makes twice the sense, but man those things are steep! Maybe they'll have an online Christmas coupon...

No. EJ25 bolts are all in a line and EJ22 bolts are offset, like chux picture shows.

1 Disc brake caliper set - broke first time I used it. (was 5-7 years ago or something like that) http://www.harborfreight.com/18-piece-disc-brake-pad-and-caliper-service-tool-kit-69053.html 2 Multimeters (2 different ones) (summer 2012) http://www.harborfreight.com/7-function-multimeter-98025.html even the "expensive" one didn't work right out of the box! LOL: http://www.harborfreight.com/ac-dc-digital-multimeter-37772.html LCD's inconsistent on both, can't read the numbers on the LCD display - first time I turned them on.

What Harbor Freight tools broke the first time you used them? *** Name of the tool, and even a link if you can find it, synopsis of what failed. We all know this stuff isn't professional grade, but I'd like a list of Harbor Freight tools which didn't work right out of the box. Might see a helpful trend.

that's kind of what i figured. subaru bearings are not consistently diagnosed with any one test. hey you got the bearing off, cool!

oh yeah, i wouldn't be attempting to keep any of the "new" ones you just bought, i'd hope to retain the old originals and clean, regrease, and reboot them. a forum member on subaruxt.com said he's had great luck doing both axles at the same time and then swapping "cups"...or some other parts from one side to the other - he said since the loading is different it presents fresh surfaces to the other side when you swap the parts....im probably wording it wrong. i've done axles but never what he's talking about so i'm not sure what it means. wayne is his name over there.

if you had one with just broken boots - reboot it. it'll be fine. i've started rebooting even a few clickety, clanking, and two heavily vibrating inner DOJ's....and they've been fine since. so far i'm batting perfect doing that - way higher percentage than aftermarket, i had so many issues with those it was a waste of time. last "new" one i installed blew to pieces 100 feet after i installed it- balls rolling all over the ground, it was awesome! that was when i started getting on forums and others were having issues so i decided to avoid them.

as you probably already know - aftermarket CV supplies are terrible. my preferred options: 1. reboot yours (noisy ones quiet up and ride fine cleaned with fresh grease but that's obviously not what you're after) 2. reboot another OEM axle from a yard/board/etc (found your thread) 3. MWE 4. trade my left kidney for a good one 5. aftermarket I've seen tons of issues with aftermarkets myself and issues abound online. as to the bearing question i'm not well versed in bearings but while loads are nice, numbers don't always guarantee practical use and reliability. There are numerous examples I believe...like: Im sure 1999 Forester rear wheel bearing charts were good and within specifications like you're pointing too....yet they are a known weak spot and failure item.