idosubaru

you can't get the higher trim models with the EJ22 - like leather and such. but there are some nice LS models out there with EJ22's that aren't too bad. they get lesser trim, (no leather) stereo's, and at least it seems like worse suspension to me (but that's a guess). but all of that is easy to swap out actually if you want any of it. swap in legacy GT suspension, leather interior and a decent stereo is plug and play from any other subaru and you've got the same car minus some exterior trims and the EJ22. i have a really nice 1999 LS special edition with 80,000 miles..i think that will be for sale shortly....but CA is quite a drive! but - it's a really nice wagon with an EJ22.

I would swap the rear diff, i see no compelling reason at all not too. Gloyale has done front diff swaps and mentioned quite a few details about it, i would look for his thread about it somewhere on here. Yet he also just posted to swap the rear housing. Probably a strong case for not much damage since the car likely didn't go far after this happened...but i totally understand the risk.

without seeing it, it's hard to say but generally speaking it's *very* easy to repair this thing back to running condition. i would guess i could have it back on the road for 30 minutes sourcing/buying parts and an hour or less of work. car-parts.com is your friend. buy matching parts like the hood. look up a thread i have with before and after pictures or links to pictures of a 96 legacy i hit a deer with at 75 mph head on. was actually not a hard repair at all. replaced: hood: 10 minutes & four 12mm bolts headlight: 15 minutes & four (a few different styles but they're all easy) 10mm bolts fender: 15 - 30 minutes & 5-10 easy to get to 12 mm bolt bumper cover just snaps into place and grille is easy. with the radiator and headlights removed you just wrap some rope or preferrably heavy tow strap around the upper rad support and start pulling with a come along or another vehicle to line things back up. you can generally get it drivable in like 30 minutes. take measurements of symmetric bolts on the opposite side or look at the numbers in the factory service manual. it's really not that hard to get a car back on the road in an hour if it's a minor hit - which i suspect this probably is in my book. air bags aren't hard to fix either. easiest ones (i've done up to 1997 this way) - you just replace the two bags and that is it. on some newer stuff you also have to replace the computer. very easy but they require a goofy security torx bit T35ish or somethign. bags/computer often sold as a set and they're cheap $30 - $150 for both bags and computer. or just run without them. you can try just replacing the bags first, if the air bag light goes off then you're golden. if not, then the computer likely needs replaced. i've never had to go past that (except the newer stuff that has the seat belt pretensioners, you replace those if they've gone off like the bags, but that's just another "device", not a big deal.

they do some neat stuff, i've met those guys. they showed me their conversion of EA81 heads (i think that's what it was, i've never gotten into EA81's) from single port heads to dual port heads. cool looking at a bunch of heads cut at various places into pieces to inspect the ports and passages. they have a lot of time, research, parts, and equipment into what they do, so the costs are going to represent that.

with that large of a swap involving harnesses and such i would guess something wonky happened with the work that was done. pull the plugs and look for bent pins or not fully seated connectors. i've seen the large engine plugs (right at engine/trans) not fully seated because they're so tight fitted it's easy for that to happen. there are some differences in 00 - 02 engines, like I think the TPS and or throttle or intake or...well there's something I've played with before that differed on the manifold but it's been a couple years. i wouldn't think it's anything much different though. and yes, sometimes those crank and cam sprockets need swapped. you can count the reluctors (or whatever they're called - triggers) on the back, they'll either be the same or they won't.

right, should be 4 12mm bolts holding it to the rear diff. just remove those. (although you don't say what kind of vehicle you're working on)

yep, get the right tool/set up and it's easy. i've never had a problem getting to them and i've done numerous axle repairs. rather easily at that. i intentionally break them to make them shorter - for using with a right angle drill in tight spaces like the front of the engine to avoid removing engine/radiator, condensor. the strong...but brittle...drill bits easily break. kind of like concrete - very durable and strong, but brittle - not intended for impacts.

not worth it. there's hardly a need for all of that, get the right gaskets that you need and it won't be terribly expensive.

Are the EJ pressure plates maybe an inch larger diameter than the XT6 pressure plate? Is it possible to buy just a pressure plate or i'm simply hosed? Would suck to not be able to use the kit because one part is wrong.

as long as it wasn't low on oil you should be fine. get the oil level right, have the valve cover gaskets properly replaced and spark plug wires properly installed and you're done. the spark plug tube seals should be required to be replaced with the valve cover gaskets, they are rarely in good shape by this age/mileage. boards like this are a great resource for determining which jobs you can/should attempt yourself and which might not be a good fit for you. and we can pretty much walk you through any repair, every repair has been done by at least one person on here and usually quite a few. valve cover gaskets on the 4 cylinder motors are really easy actually.

Greay, thanks guys. Thanks Chux was hoping youd chime in, so you think that picture is not an xt6 pressure plate? interesting if not since that is the part wrong with mine and its the same kit. hard to believe they would mis-list thos for years though? ill open it up and recheck and see if i have any used stuff, i think i have one EJ used set somewhere.

I bought a clutch kit for an XT6 years ago that does not fit an XT6...so I'm now trying to figure out what it is. Apparently the pressure plate is larger than the XT6 pressure plate... Chux said the EJ clutch bearings and clutch disc are the same as the XT6? I don't think I have any old clutch parts around to compare. Doubt it matters but it's a Rhino Pack 15-009 Clutch kit (or that's what the box says - either the wrong part is in the box or they don't fit the XT6) - but they're all listed as XT6 only. For example: http://www.ebay.com/itm/RHINO-PAC-15-009-Clutch-Set-/160824529882

Great, sounds good. That engine/vehicle is a solid drivetrain easily capable of 200,000 miles without blinking, the headgasket being the only issue they have. Having it repaired properly by Subaru is a good option if you can get over the initial bad taste in your mouth... I would consider it if: 1. they used Subaru EJ25 Turbo headgaskets for the repair (if they don't, they are simply installing the same headgasket that failed the first time). 2. they install a new timing belt and tensioner (you can even offer to pay for those parts as a last resort, they're cheap - roughly $150 for both). that's a $500+ job at 105,000 miles, might as well get it done now while it's easy. So for $150 (if they charge you parts) you've got new updated headgaskets and your timing belt job is done. preferably I'd want a complete kit from ebay with all new timing pulleys too but just the belt and tensioner is not bad. i would also personally replace the valve cover gaskets too, but i would plan on having the car for 200,000+ miles, you might not expect that much use out of it.

Sounds like you made the right move by contacting sales/managers, I would keep doing that. The service department is just going to do a diagnosis and estimate like they would any one else, it won't be up to them to decide if to repair it for free or a reduced rate. In other words I would view the service department and sales department as two separate entities and the one that will ultimately decide is the sales guys, not the service. So while that does suck they made no comment so far, hopefully it's just because the service department looked at it and has no responsibility to make the decision you're looking for - replacement based on existing issue from the sales department. Dealers do out of warranty repairs all the time. I'm not sure how they make those decisions but this sure seems like a good candidate to me. The headgasket job can be done for closer to $1,200 by an independent shop. Timing belt is very expensive to replace yet has to be taken off to replace the headgasket. So then you can also have a complete ebay timing belt kit installed for only $200 in parts. Much better than only replacing the belt and you won't be getting all those parts from a dealer ($$$$$). *** The timing belt is overdue - it's over 10 years old and even by mileage requires 105,000 mile replacement. *** Make sure you use the Subaru EJ25 TURBO headgasket if you get them replaced, it's a superior gasket. If you don't, you'll just be installing the same gasket design that failed in the first place. They almost certainly noted the oil leak and sold it that way. It's not like they're hard to see or find and since you can google all the EJ25 headgasket issues, pages, information - it's obviously a very well known issue that I doubt Subaru ignores. I look for it on every Subaru I look at...I suspect Subaru does the same. New cars they make very little on, used cars they're making a few thousand on.

system calls for ATF, i would start by making sure the right fluid is in there. i would flush out for ATF, but don't know if that's the issue or not. if there's a leak, then fix it. Subaru power steering racks rarely fail so if there was a failure i would suspect the pump over the rack. I have power steering that is coming and going so to speak on a 99 Legacy as well, be interested to see what you figure out.

some dealers will work with you, give them a chance to make good. first make sure it's headgaskets - could be a few other things and your year is more prone to external coolant leaks...but oil is possible. if it was a recent sale and seems likely they sold it to you like this, there's a chance they will do the repair for you i would think. if they don't seem to be headed that direction then you could start thinking of questions pointing to the headgasket issue and the unlikely scenario that they didn't look/check for that.

this worked perfect! thanks! it was actually really easy as soon as i quit trying to lay a bead on the thing. spot welds every couple of inches and it's done! thanks a bunch!

yep, i've seen it before. it'll loosen up. aftermarket axles have these issues quite often, I would go with MWE or rebooting original OEM Subaru axles to avoid the aftermarket mess.

Steering rack "play" is highly unlikely. Subaru steering racks generally last the life of the vehicle - the only failure sometimes happens is fluid leaking out the seal...play is extremely rare. What kind of "Play" are you experiencing? If it's a "delayed" steering - like you turn the wheel and the wheels sort of seem to take a fraction of a second before they'll turn....then you probably just need steering rack bushings. Cheap and easy to replace. They can firm up steering responsiveness. Though I never really see this on such new cars anything is possible depending on usage, environment, and if they've ever been subjected to chemicals, automotive fluids. If you have some clunking/play on bumps, etc - then your sway bar is likely needing bushings. Or struts could be bad. Have the struts ever been replaced? They are essentially replacement items by this mileage. I would never buy a new unit, they fail so rarely and have so few issues I would buy a used one. There is no demand so they're not worth anything, which means they're cheap. I throw them away when I used to part Subarus out.

have you checked subaruxt.com, folks over there have some stuff and some of it may be posted?

great, caliper and rotor it is...and tone ring. ill get five ordered as soon as i get internet other than my phone. they both sheared off when removing the lugs, one awhile ago and another today when i rotated before our trip today. thanks guys.

good call, i will order a set of 5. who knows whats involved? remove rotor, caliper braket and that gives enough access?

2 of them sheared off in the rear....what all is involved in replacing them, anyone know? I've done older ones, never really looked into newer stuff. One was already broke off and another broke off this morning right before our 1,500 mile road trip....so I would like to have some clue on how it's done while I'm traveling....LOL

ah ha, i wonder if that's what will happen to mine. great, thanks. everything looks fine but something is definitely wrong - i think it's what you're describing, thanks a bunch! parts ordered a day or two ago.

was it still in tact and assembled on the car? mine appears "fine", i can pull and push it and nothing gives or croaks or makes noise.