idosubaru

he means the cv axle. stock ea82 axles won't fit in wrx hubs, which is what he means.

"right cam" - means passengers side - is that what you mean? What year/model vehicle is the motor from? Subaru belt or aftermarket (what brand)? use the mark, not the tab itself. make sure the crank sprockets aren't installed in the reverse order? cam sprockets are on the proper side (not switched)?

failing clutch/compressor.

no, it won't fit. all 96-99 OBW auto's are 4.44. often torque bind is mis-diagnosed as a failing rear diff, so be careful.

keep spinning it - it'll eventually go in. it seems like it's not going anywhere - but it is. front EA/ER calipers are *turned* in only, they can not be pressed in. if you did happen to press it in - then you may have broken it as they are on a threaded spindle and can't be pressed in. *also make sure the indentations on the pads aren't hitting the piston face. the calipers are not "flat" - so if the pad has indentations sticking up - it might be hitting high points on the caliper.

start a thread about TCU pinouts from the FSM. i have them for the trans you need but i'm not in a position to do much right now, someone else will hook you up. here's the AT control wiring diagram from the FSM - best i can do with limited time and only 50 kb allowed attachment: the dropping resistor isn't necessary - but simple wiring anyway. i disconnect them on XT6's to firm up the 2nd-3rd shift which tends to lag in those.

awesome man you're hardcore, that's great. the trans will run default in 3rd gear mechanically without any TCU being hooked up - so you can install it and drive if you want. i've driven one for like a year like that before (because it had shifting issues and rust made it pointless to properly fix). it's a little gutless from a start....it would be a terrible idea for an EA82/EA81/EJ18 but anything else should be fine for a daily driver until you work out the kinks.

like he said - one time on the fel-pro's (that's their advantage and why we recommend them) and a final torque step of 5-10 pounds more is common. sequence you posted looks right off the top of my head, i'm sure it's listed here. sounds like you have a problem - coolant in combustion chamber? the intake manifold gaskets can leak into the cylinders as well. the aftermarket ones are usually really cheap flimsy cardboard. the Subaru OEM intake gaskets are much better in this case.

all 4EAT inhibitor switches (the shifting mechanism you're talking about) are on the right side like the EJ you're looking at. look and see what you got and make it work. shifter and cable is centrally located and easy to access, should be real simple to figure that out. if the EA cable doesn't work, get an EJ. or just get both and see which is easiest to route. on the cable i'd rather have an exact match on the inhibitor switch side than the shifter side if they're different - so i'd have an EJ on hand if they look different at all. you're going from a 3AT to a 4EAT? that's cool. are you swapping in the EJ TCU and wiring as well?

awesome!

what year WRX parts and what parts are you interested in installing? "entire drivetrain" could include trans, shaft, diff......but that's not what you mean. the front hubs (and therefore brakes/struts) will bolt to the XT6 front control arm/ball joint (XT6 and EJ ball joints are the same) (or rounded out EA82 control arm and XT6/EJ ball joint, depending how you're doing this). most EJ rear suspension components are not bolt on for EA/ER (XT6) stuff.

didn't know you had a thread before we PM'ed. what they said about the fluid lines - those "can" be the worst part of the job and require a lot of time bending over the fender, not good for the old back. have a peak and see how much space your DOHC gives you down there to work with. does the exhaust manifold need to come out of the way. fairly certain i've never removed sway bars to replace a rack, but i generally remove as little as possible and spend more time wiggling/angling something out too?!

since this was the first read after months of misfires it's hard to guess what this means. with multiple codes you typically clear them and see what comes back first. how many miles? have the plugs and wires ever been replaced? are they subaru wires? are the plugs NGK or some other brand? these engines do best with Subaru wires and NGK plugs, i've seen other brands cause misfires right out of the box. but if they are all giving codes then the igniter or coil pack may be bad. both easily replaced in a matter of minutes. don't fail often enough to warrant the crazy Subaru prices IMO. blinking check engine light generally means repair immediately to prevent catalytic converter damage.

Subaru may be able to look up the key code from the VIN, give them a call and give them your VIN. service manager told me that when a car is sold the salesmen back then was supposed to write the key code down with the paper work - if they did, they can look it up with the VIN. if the salesmen did not, then they can not. so it's hit or miss. so far, except for one time maybe, i've got a few keys cut this way. +1 for using old Subaru keys. that happens *all* the time, i dont' even know how many subaru keys i've had work in other subarus, but it's a lot. the XT6 key on my keychain right now starts two of my XT6's. (though it doesn't work in the door/trunk of one). i keep old keys, even from scrapped cars for this reasons sometimes. ask for 5 board members to give you some old warn down subaru keys? parts wanted forum request? might be kind of fun!

you'll be fine, some people (i have) drive them for years like this. i wouldn't worry about it. oil pump has an oring, gasket (oring like material), and front shaft seal. 3 parts to seal it. then there's a crank seal above the oil pump as well. replace it, or at least have it on hand as it could easily be leaking as well. cam seals and the cam cap orings (they are sold as a set on thepartsbin.com or Subaru has the orings) are easily replaced behind the timing belt as well. it would be obvious if those are leaking as they're on the "outside" of the engine and the oil pump/crank are centrally located. i'd use subaru parts, i've had aftermarkets leak. i've used aftermarkets with plenty of success before too but i like nearly %100 success rate and there's hadly any cost savings given these seals are only a few bucks each. +1 - i wouldn't replace the oil pump gasket unless you're 100% positive it's leaking, which yo'ure not since it's so saturated you can't tell. most likely a seal by your description anyway. you can't tell but the way the baffles are in the pan make it 100 times harder to remove than what it looks like when you crawl under and look at it. if the timing belt is wet with oil i'd plan on replacing it. heck, since you have to remvoe the belts and just got the car i would just get thae $60 ebay timing kits and install all new belts, tensioners, and pulleys and that's a big reliability improvement. i resealed a friends car and the aftermarket crank seal leaked and got the belt wet. i didn't know at the time that oil/coolant degrades belts so fast so i just wiped it off. the brand new timing belt didn't even last 10,000 miles before it broke.

+1, that's where i'd start. has the engine/trans ever been removed? i'm wondering if the pump has ever been compromised and isn't moving fluid?

due to water infiltration, battery drain, and disty possibly running hot - i would trace the battery drain *first*. maybe it's related. tracing a battery drain isn't hard and it's free if you know how to do it. i would ask folks here where to start. i have a drain thread on subaruxt.com with folks chiming in there on how to trace drains, but i'm sure someone here will pipe up too. basically measuring amps as you pull fusible links and fuses.

the only guy i know that tried it never had the trans fail on him and it sat behind an EG33. those rear hubs/drums do fail though so i wouldn't push it at all if i were doing it. if yo'ure doing it "to play" then it's probably a bad idea.

thanks for tracking miles. good call - yes the ECU LED is working - one flash for manual trans. i'll check fuse 5. i had this happen once before like 10 years ago and turned out swapping distributors fixed it...no codes, spark, fuel, everything seemed fine, disty even tested fine. that car sat for a few months as well. i also pumped a few gallons of gas and added fresh. weird. at least i can swap in MAF, disty...hope something like that does the trick.

it does not start at all - won't even attempt to fire up.

great! that's awesome the studs came out, they almost always have needed drilled out for me.

GD is in portland i believe, get his attention he does automotive work and is very familiar with EJ22's and swaps.

EJ25's are rated at 4.5 quarts and EJ22's at 4.2 or something like that. pans are interchangeable though. Copy that, that is not the greatest news that it sat a long time.

My daily driver XT6 won't start so I tried to get another one running (manual trans). It wouldn't start! GAH! turns over fine but won't fire at all. It's like a freaking disease around here! Got spark, timing, and fuel....what next? No check engine light or codes Fuel spraying hard, brand new fuel pump Got spark at all 6 plugs Timing belts are dead on Double checked electrical connectors plugged in and hoses hooked up. Plug wires are all to the right plugs. New timing belts, water pump, head gaskets. I'll probably try a can of starting fluid next - where's the best place to spray that in? Then swap the distributor Any other suggestions?

no worries. cars end up as parts cars for a reason. wrecked cars are preferred - it means the car was running fine just before impact. a perfectly good looking car in the yard suggests something unknown but major is wrong with it. doesn't take much to total an EJ22 vehicle, they're 15 years old now. a wreck shouldn't hurt the engine unless the car is left running or oil supply is compromised (rare). if the timing covers aren't cracked then that's a good sign it wasn't that bad of an accident. a bad accident will crack the timing covers....ruin cam sprockets. you don't mention anything like that, so sounds like a minor accident. sounds to me like i'd install the timing kit and go. leak down test is the one thing you can easily do now. if you can mount a starter to it now (have a spare trans or fab something up) you could compression test it off the car.