idosubaru

IAC is a good call. I've never seen/heard of one failing, but obviously it can happen. A cleaning usually does it. You should be able to test it, open or closed. Might want to try some quick sprays of carb cleaner/spray to test for vacuum leak too. Post in the Parts Wanted forum for an IAC if you'd like one. Should be plenty of folks with one lying around on the board here. I have a few but no time. I laughed:

the earliest open deer rifle season in the country, the only place it's easy to take a buck still in velvet. go shrimping on the coast too if you like that sort of thing. visit Charleston and eat some seafood. Seafood Shack is supposed to be really good, though my experience there was below average. be prepared to see wild Alligators too, they're in golf course ponds and generally every where. kayak the ocean and islands on the coast. the very western, mountainous portion of the state (granted nothing like the mountains you're used to, but very usable and beautiful still) are beatiful. if you like camping try the north east corner of GA, the Chatooga River area is very nice, remote, and great trout fishing considering how far south it is. the Smokey Mountain National Park is a fantastic area - try Cades Cove, there's usually wild animals walking around all the time - you just drive through it and look at deer, turkeys, bear, etc. i imagine the demeanor of folks there will be extremely different from what you're used too. south eastern people are my favorite, they are unbelievably generous and kind, i love it. would live there if it weren't for so much family up north. be careful where you live/associate with, theres still plenty of "Old Money", as they call it, around. country club, nose in the air types....well, I don't know you, that's what you might be after. in general Subaru's are rather rare down south.

it's already been done, a few people come to mind, one person even had a 99 Legacy for sale on this forum (he lives in your state even) with an EG33 not too long ago, though it had issues. a google search or some time looking would probably bring it up. since you haven't even tried to look it's hard to take the request seriously? just being honest. when i go into a huge project, i spend some time searching and looking. the EG33 is a great engine and i say go for it from project perspective, i think it's fantastic and you'll learn alot. but it would be a good idea to consider your options based on what you're saying. it's not likely to give you what you're after. there's no way i would do this swap from a performance stand point. pointless for the power to cost/time ratio. you can get gobs more power and less weight. the weight/dimensions of the EG33 affects handling too. is turbo an option? you could turbo your existing EJ25 and be way ahead of power, weight, ease, and handling of the proposed EG33 swap. and if you just want 250-300 hp that easy to do reliably with an EJ engine.

yep, it's a benign issue so don't worry about it. leave the cracks alone, they don't affect anything. "cracked head" is a very ambiguous term. in the case of Subaru's they can be "cracked", as in the valve seat cracks you're talking about, and it doesn't matter at all. they can also be cracked in the typical "bad" way too, with cracks into the exhaust/coolant ports. Those are bad and will be found with a pressure test. They are rare in non-turbo heads. have them tested to make sure there aren't "bad" cracks. machine shops can use "stitch pins" to repair them if you're bent that way and can find a shop familiar with aluminum heads. they can be found by finding out who supplies the rebuilt aluminum heads for the local stores, NAPA, Dealerships, etc. the guys i used were actually called "Aluminum Head Specialists" and were very familiar with the valve seat cracking of 20 year old Subaru heads.

Someone over here might sell you the units you need from a used car?

i got a picture to post showing the guts of a Fram. you can see the cardboard end caps, they're even flimsy just sitting there with no oil on them. if they're willing to make something that cheap on the inside and put their efforts into mass marketing instead of quality, i'll pass.

i wouldn't contribute it to "slop" as you say, but i don't think it matters. the MWE's would not experience problems either way. i don't view this as an argument or disagreement, just multiple options. doesn't seem like an in depth discussion on this is really profitable at all, it reminds me of the oil debates. ask MWE but i believe he inspects everything and replaces parts that need to be replaced. XT6 axles are more expensive because the parts are more expensive, at least i think, i don't care i just want a good axle that i don't have to worry about or ever change. what it comes down to is price and time. MWE's to the average person are annoying to deal with shipping and the core charges. i like the idea of paying an individual and not a company too, and get high quality out of it. i do that across other areas i purchase as well. if you want cheap and easy access - then going with GD's preference makes total sense and is probably a better fit for most people. i put a 2" lift on my new XT6, strut only, no engine/trans spacers, and intense angles on my axles. the brand new, still had the label on them, axles couldn't take it. vibration through turns that lingered while driving straight. put my few year old MWE's on and no problem.

weather is fantastic. summers are brutal during heat waves. don't plan on doing car work between 10am-6pm on hot/humid days. stay away from fire ants. they look just like tiny ants from where we live, but are completely different. their bite is akin to a bee sting. i've laid in a nest before while changing oil, not fun. plan on being outside all winter though, only during brief cold snaps will it be nasty.

over here it's easiest to get the stuff from a car equipped with it and install it in yours. it's usually plug and play and fairly simple since they're made to accept them.

all the info pertaining to this swap is here in large quantities. yes it'll swap right over, same engine. 99+ forester and 00+ legacy are different. only issue is the bellhousing bolts are different and easiest if both have EGR (%99 chance they do). bolt old manifold to new engine. interference engine, now is probably the time for a timing belt job. be sure you know how to seat the torque converter, not uncommon for folks to bork the trans reinstalling. good luck.

the 4EAT duty C modification is nearly identical in functionality to a truly "locked" manual trans. it works superbly off road, in the snow, etc. "technically" it's a 60/40 split, but that's arm chair talk that you won't ever notice in real life driving. it's an 80's Subaru right? so either way it's a little bit of power to the rear and a little bit of power to the front!!

no, you can't *just* take out the axle. but it's not that hard to cut one wire and install the cv ends into the hubs. if you can remove an axle that stuff is benign...like jacking the car up and removing the wheel is also a step beyond "just removing the axle". that's akin to saying "i'm not replacing the brakes because i have to reinstall the wheel, that's an extra step" there's tons of steps..jack up car, remove lug nuts, remove wheel, remove nuts, knock out pin, reinstall, etc... have someone on here send you the ends of a bad axle to install into the hubs. then you don't have to disassemble yours. plenty of folks around here have bad axles lying around, i have a ton just never drive EA82's so i don't have any for your car. a stock EA82 is not going to break anything if you drive conservatively, if you're nailing shifts and drifting you'll probably break something....but you'll probably break something in AWD or RWD, so tear it up!!

crank or cam sensor is more likely than the CTS, try and test those if you can find the spec's for those. don't know CTS spec's.

i'll add to GD's description by saying auto's and manuals are also interchangeable all day long. only difference is between turbo and non-turbo - the spline count is different. junk yard axles usually have dry rotted or less than desirable boots. even when replacing 2000-ish axles used that's an issue. they soon crack, so plan on replacing the boots. still not a bad deal - $30 for an axle and boot costs gives you a genuine Subaru axle for $100 or less. annoying, but given the horrific nature of after market axles it's worth it if you don't have time to take the chance with after markets. MWE rebuilds Subaru axles out of Denver for $75-ish ($125 for XT6) with a core charge. Shipping can be a pain but it's worth it for the quality.

i told you that you can do the same thing with the 4EAT in my last reply - yes you can. you just need to cut one wire to turn the Duty C on and off (which will toggle the transmission between "locked" 4WD and stock AWD.

the original post is really old, but the auto's don't have a center differential. as to your current issue with the front differential, that happens occasionally. Subaru transmissions rarely fail so your best bet is a used unit, they can be found rather inexpensively usually. that's a better option than fixing anyway. i've seen repaired front diffs fail soon aftewards, it's a tough repair to get right and other stuff can get damaged. you can get a transmission for this car for $500. it's because they don't fail very often, there is hardly any demand, so prices are cheap. the front diff is essentially part of the transmission, so replacing the trans fixes the problem.

yes. keep in mind it's not a center differential, the automatics use transfer clutches.

GD is an rump roast (read his title), we do not thank him for that, got it?!?!?!:lol: really hard to believe those high quality, robust aftermarket thermostats failed!??!!! HA HA!!

TCu's rarely fail....like almost never. which means two things. first - are you sure it's bad? second - get a used one. make sure everything matches - FWD/AWD/EJ18/EJ22 I'm not sure but 91-94 should be interchangeable 95-98 are be interchangeable. not sure about interchanging between those groups. In a sense the engine size doesn't even matter, they are interchangeable as well (i've done it), but probably best to match yours for performance, shift characteristics, etc.

this is all covered in depth here and on the internet. 96-99 legacy (98 forester) have the EJ25 DOHC with internallly leaking gaskets. 2000-200? has the SOHC with externally leaking gaskets. Subaru requires and installs conditioner (stop leak) with these and has an extended 100,000 mile head gasket warranty from 2000-2002.

snow tires are amazing, definitely worth it. there is hardly a more significant safety improvement you can make. i would say from Maryland north they are definitely worth it.

you will be replacing the transmission because: A: there is no such thing as a Subaru transfer case B: repairing the front diff isn't a good choice for most situations (cost, time, and difficulty) you're "mechanic" friend should know or be able to tell that subaru's don't have a transfer case. Subaru's do not have a transfer case. the transaxle is a transmission and differential assembled as a unit, no need for a transfer case. sounds like your front diff is bad....but it would be helpful to tell us what's going on rather than talking about parts that don't exist:lol: not trying to be mean, but realize you're not even trying to help yourself by answering simple questions and giving some input. you're demanding, taking, and wanting stuff handed to you with zero effort. you are from new york so i suppose i wouldn't normally be surprised

information is good. keep in mind that we can't hear, smell, lick, touch, or see what's going on. fill us in, we as a group are orders of magnitude more experienced and knowledgeable about Subaru's then your buddy or mechanic or even your local dealer. the help you receive will only be as good as the info we're provided. posting multiple threads does not help anything. actually it hurts you because folks will start posting in them all and then they get deleted because you posted all over the place. play nice, give info, and don't bombard the forum with multiple threads, we're not getting paid for this. the transmission "will work", the only concern is final drive ratio. 4.11 and 4.44 are the only two automatic options. you'll have to determine the final drive ratio (very annoying) to verify. you have to count front diff teeth (or the easier option is to count the rear diff rotations if you have access to it. outbacks are always 4.44 - so you know what that one should be, though i'd check, particularly since you got it from someone/some place. if you have 15" wheels then i'd bet yours is a 4.11...but that's really a stab in the dark too. but it seems that subaru changes gear ratios when overall wheel/tire sizes change or engines change. being all EJ25's, there's not much else to vary. the transmission numbers are meaningless by themselves. they dont' need to match. the junk yard sites aren't cross listing them, so they may be different. 1-800-696-0144 has one in New York for $350. and actually - if you're bent on using the outback trans, just get a rear diff to match, they're cheap and easy to find. i had/have a 4.44 in my garage. i think i still have it. then you'd change your gear ratios, your speedometer may just be a tad bit off, but heck it might be more accurate since they typically read wrong anyway! otherwise subaru auto trans have changed little in 20 years since the inception of the 4EAT.

drove fine, we'll hear from him how it goes i guess later (or hopefully i don't hear anything).

went to follow-up bleed it and it seemed perfect? i didn't bleed it at all, haven't driven it yet since i'm finishing up the timing belt. i'm returning it to my buddy today and driving it in to work so we'll se how it does. i tapped the solenoid/lines with a hammer before trying so either sitting for a few days helped or the hammer trick did.