idosubaru

i would replace the other one. the dealer is "not replacing it" because it's not leaking and they're not required too. but the proper thing to do is replace it. think of it this way...it's a high risk item, it's the same block, same heads, assembled by the same line, at the same time, same parts....and one cut loose on you. the only good thing about yours is that, unlike the 96-99 EJ25's, they leak externally and don't typically overheat/leave you stranded. you get fair warnings and time to plan ahead or get home. you're right, at least the ones i've asked. they don't pull it. all of the people claiming "pulling engine is faster" are not right...notice i didn't say they're wrong! the level of difficulty depends on the person and tools available. but the quickest way, if you have the right person and tools, is with the engine in the car and that's how the dealers do it, at least the ones i've talked to.

this is too open ended if you're looking for functional responses. if it's arm chair talk, then tear it up. but i'm an engineer so i stick to functionality. price, duty, reliability, mileage...etc will make a HUGE difference.

that wasn't a stab at you at all, just a verification that it needs to be done right. your familiarity with subaru's and even how that job should be done are much higher than the person i know that did it. it also aids in the reluctance i have of doing that job myself.

hey nip. the rear EJ stuff i've seen can be a real nightmare when the bolts won't come out or shear off. it's not a bad job, but if you have any rust issues or suspect that long bolt to be a problem this might not be a fun one for you. actually...i'm fortunate enough that ever rear EJ work i've done has been a total PITA. sheared bolts everywhere.

i only know of one person that has done this to an XT6 - i gave him the differential to do it. it didn't last very long, i assume he didn't get something set right.

i edited it, was thinking of a 4WD-2WD conversion where you pull the axles out of the front and have to seal the hubs. obviously not needed in the rears! i've never tried to use Legacy struts, so i was going on feedback from someone else on that. i edited the strut info as well. that's what happens when you type it up at 4am in the morning. you mentioned pre-1999 - what does that mean about the 2000+ legacy's? the reaming the control arm comment is just a goofy "disclaimer".if they're confident they have the tools to do it right, they'll do it, if they're not they won't. if i "really" thought no one should do it, i wouldn't mention it. just for you, i edited it. i'm trying to create a comprehensive list here, not just "what gary has seen". i do not know every single combination or possibility but i do know the old write ups are lacking in scope. actually some of the issues you mention are still in the old write up (EA82 tie rods) and no one ever corrected that. helpful suggestions work better than negative commentary.

as for starting, you need to try to jump it and let us know what happens. as for getting it out of park - there is a way to get it out, i believe somewhere at the base or under the parking selector cover is a access hole or something to get it out. check your owners manual, it should mention it. or do a search on this forum i know it's been covered before.

Usually sensors do throw a CEL if they're out of range as skip says. I've seen a couple times where a bad sensor never caused a CEL but did cause problems with the car. i doubt this is your issue though. i would change the fluid if it hasn't been changed recently. it does sound like something transmission related. i'd swap the TCU, but mostly because it's easy and i have extras. is your POWER or transmission light blinking 16 times on start up? that's the TCU's "CEL" equivalent, telling you there's a stored code. last fall mine started something similar and got worse. it would run fine for 10 - 15 minutes and then start sticking in gears. at first it would take awhile to get out of second. then it took awhile to get out of first. finally it would not come out of first. here's what i did. as a last resort, if it gets worse you can unplug your transmission harness and run it. it will always be in third gear and the 4WD will be "locked". i powered the Duty Solenoid C which controls 4WD lock up so it's not binding anymore. so now i'm just always in 3rd gear, been driving for a while like that including a few highway trips.

I attempted to put together a comprehensive set of notes for the XT site since there's a number of confusing options that some members have run into recently...2WD/4WD, turbo/nonturbo, air suspension, EJ or XT6. It could use some tweaking but i've already spent a TON of time that i probably don't have on it. I figured it could be useful here. 5 Lug Conversion Update Read the “Variations” list at the bottom to see if any of the additional notes apply to you. Front: Control arms. XT6 control arms. XT6 and Impreza ball joints are identical. Subaru ball joint part # 21067GA050. If using an XT6 control arm, get the bolt that holds the arm to the vehicle. Some EA82's will require drilling the holes out bigger for the XT6 bolt. It is also possible to ream out the EA82 control arm to accept the XT6/Impreza ball joint. Hubs: XT6 hubs or EJ hubs. Sruts: XT6 struts or Impreza struts. (You can mix and match XT6/EJ hubs and struts but the lower strut mount will require some tweaking if you don’t keep them the same.) Axles: (Non-turbo see notes below) Turbo's Only: XT6 axles (or EA82 Turbo axles) for XT6 hubs. EJ axles for EJ hubs. Tie Rods: XT6 or EJ tie rod ends - Subaru part #'s 31320GA190 RHS and 31320GA200 LHS. EA82 tie rods are a bit short but might work. Brakes: XT6 calipers, brackets and rotors. 1999 Chevy Cavalier rotors are a much cheaper and easy to find equivalent. EJ brake notes below. Rear: XT6 rear hub assemblies (2WD notes below) ***NOTE*** For Impreza or EJ stuff mentioned above, hubs and struts should be from a 1993-2001 Impreza, including WRX up to 04 STi. Legacy hubs should work to up to 2004 at least, so the options are wide. Variations: The following are various items that may affect the above list: *** Non-turbo EA82’s***FWD Manual Impreza transmissions have an axle that should work - 1993 should do the trick. Non turbo EA82's have 23 spline inner axle joint (all XT6's, EJ's, and Turbo EA82's have 25 spline and there's no issue). The FWD manual impreza axle also has a 23 spline inner. Another option is to build your own axle...swapping the inner non Turbo joint onto whatever axle you want to use - XT6, Turbo EA or EJ axle. If you have an automatic transmission the axle stubs pop out, they just pull right out and pop back in. This being the case, you might be able to pull out your non-turbo splined stubby shafts and install turbo splined stubby shaft. Then just follow the directions above - using axles to match whatever hub you're using. This little trick isn't possible on manual trans as the stubs don't pull out. ***2WD*** If your EA82 is 2WD you will either need 2WD XT6 rear hubs or use entire 4WD XT6 rear hub assemblies (trailing arms and all) ***Air suspension note*** If you want to retain air suspension you will need XT6 front air struts or to see if Legacy front air struts will work. I am also told the Legacy air struts are too large for the EA82 strut towers as well, like the note above about EJ struts. ***Brake options*** For EJ brakes up front you will need to do a rear ebrake conversion as well via Nissan 200SX rear calipers. EJ brakes do not have the emergency brake up front, so converting to front EJ brakes essentially removes your emergency brake. I am assuming that someone doing this swap knows they need NEW WHEELS!

grossgary (@) yahoo (dot) com

so fill as far as mounting non-heated leather seats in an XT6 - looks like it was fairly simple? i got my LLBean Limited Outback heated seats today. they'll go in my Legacy and the original gray (non heated) leather Legacy seats will go in my XT6.

i'll have to ask more when i get there, but i'll be bolting the XT6 front diff to the EJ transmission. i take it that's not a direct swap - remove EJ front diff and install XT6 front diff? i'll do as much as i can myself if it's straight forward and easy, then have the shop double check the backlash. i'm not interested in spending a ton of time on it so if it gets intense i'll pay someone else. do they do that with the entire transmission in hand bolted back together or can they do that with just the front diff in hand? they use those axle stub retainers to adjust the backlash and what exactly is being measured? i can't imagine access to measure anything with it all bolted back together.

i'll probably have a shop do the diff swap, sounds over my head.

in which transmissions? does this effect swapping the front diffs? i will be swapping an EJ automatic into an XT6 and trying to retain the XT6 3.7 final drive.

i suspected it was for an XT. are all XT digi's the same? i guess there's auto and manual differences? what about 1985 and 1987.5's, are they all the same?

what do you make of that email then - you think that guy is mistaken? or some EJ trans are different? or being a trans from another country?

i doubt it. these engines are getting old age wise and we're loosing site of the fact that they blew even at 30,000 miles. i doubt maintenance or elevation has much to do with it. you're in a high density subaru area, that's probably a good reason there's still many around. it's been hashed out over and over on other threads, you can read through those for more opinions and ideas.

NASIOC has a lot more information about this kind of swap than here. i'd want to swap the wiring harness and computer for the donor engine into the car. might want to try sourcing those and see what you come up with.

I have this digidash and can't recall what it's for. Almost positive it's for an XT Turbo. How many different EA82 digidashes were there? How many different XT Turbo digidashes were there?

funny fact that i don't think will help you here though: the DOHC intake doesn't swap with EJ22's. some later SOHC EJ25's and EJ22's are interchangeable.

i don't know, i just copied that from his email. EJ's aren't 3.7 i don't think, but i don't understand that 1.1:1 comment as i've never done any diff/gear work like that. he said he has good details on doing this swap but hasn't sent them to me yet. said's it rather large and he couldn't email it so he's shipping it via CD, from another country. has to have pictures to be that big?

23 looks like the MAF sensor. pull it out and look at the thin wires going through it, if any are broken it needs replaced. you could try cleaning it with MAF cleaner (any auto parts store will have it) and reinstalling. and make sure all the pins/connectors are clean. the IAC is simple...it's only one bolt holding it with a bracket onto the intake manifold. remove bolt, pull it out and keep hosing the inside air passages down with cleaner until it comes out clear and all the blackness is gone.

yup. if a tech paid by the job, instead of by the hour, is going to shortchange anything by doing it "in the car"...he's not going to all of a sudden take his time, do things right, and properly just because the engine is out of the car. that point makes no sense really. either the person doing the job is going to do it right or not....paying job rates like dealers and shops do does not give the customer the best possible workmanship. usually it's sufficient, but it's still not top shelf. head gaskets can be done quicker in the car for sure. it is nice to have them out and also is advisable sometimes...like for doing a clutch as well. but in general pulling and installing takes quite a bit of time..if it didn't dealers would be doing it.

lots of variables. if it's running without too many issues and it's a manual then figure 1,000-2,000 on ebay. automatics seem to go a little less unless they're super low mileage. selling on the forums usually doesn't work too well with an XT6...although i have sold two through the online subaru boards. but i think that's not to be expected.

good point, i do that too!