idosubaru

there's some concern as to how badly it was overheated by the prior owner, but most of the time you're go to go by just installing new headgaskets. unfortunately there's no way to verify whether the block or heads are cracked, but usually they aren't. don't replace just one, whatever caused that one to fail also stressed the other one. i tried that once, bad idea. didn't take long for the other one to go, just do them both. the FSM is the way to go, the USMB will likely be your best resource though. and they can definitely be done in the car, i recommend it myself. air tools are a big plus.

yep, this info is already here. 1995 from an automatic. or 96-98 EJ22 with exhaust header. wouldn't surprise me if a 99 EJ22 would work but i'd avoid that year it's an oddball. make sure it has EGR. i HAVE picked up identical 97 subaru's that have had EGR and not had EGR so i wouldn't count on models/years/trans to be the definitive mark. although almost all late model EJ22's have EGR. and this is not that odd, i've seen a fair number of EJ25's with internal engine issues. i would guess it's related to the head gasket problem in some way.

anyone have a picture of an EA81 hub? are the inner part, the part with the lug studs on it interchangeable with an EA82?

searching will get you the information you need. RX is the only model i'm aware of that always has LSD, other models are hit or miss though some have it more (like turbo's), again searching will help clarify but really you need to look to find out. not all turbo transmissions are the same - there's 3AT, 4EAT, FWD, and AWD, then there's dual range, single range. all of the manual trans are easily interchangeable though.

yeah it'll all swap just fine. for the outback look i think you only need to swap the struts though, that's it.

this is a bad question, it's all opinion and subjective. many people tow unsafe loads and think getting from A to B without incident proves their skill, the cars capability and that it's "safe". what kind of towing you're doing makes a difference too...how often, what kind of terrain, snow, rain, mountains, what kind of trailer...all towing is not the same.

here you go. walked out to the garage at 5am, below freezing, and loaded these over dial up, hope it was worth it!

the only good source of CV axles is Subaru or MWE (that's who i get all of mine from). MWE is far more economical typically and does top notch work.

you have to piece it together essentially - i haven't found a perfect kit. for instance i typically order a timing belt "kit" - including timing belt, tensioner, timing belt pulleys. and then order everything else separately, like the water pump. as for the parts i'd replaced on a 140k 17 year old engine: timing belt, pulleys, tensioner, water pump, thermostat, cam seals, cam o-rings, crank seal (also the oil pump seal) and remove/reseal the oil pump. the backing plate screws on the rear of the oil pump may back out, quite common on EJ engines. remove any loose screws and reinstall them with locktite. i just did this last week, i found a timing belt "kit" and then ordered everything else from the dealer. the kit i found included the timing belt, pulleys, tensioner and water pump. it was good for EJ18 and EJ22, you could see if they have another kit available: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&viewitem=&item=220163948134 i saw two other listed for $110 (by domesticgaskets, though i think they only list it as for "EJ18") and $177 (by Timing Belt Kit Pro)

they go on dry, add nothing. what headgaskets are you using? you should use the Fel-Pro permatorque's - if it's a Fel-Pro the permatorques have "PT" in the part number. any other gasket and you'll have to follow the FSM and retorque the heads which is a real PITA and hours of extra/unecessary work.

oil on the threads will not cause them to come loose. you'll be fine.

you can look it up on the internet. i think gates, the timing belt manufacturer, has a comprehensive list that i use. calling a Ford dealer would obviously give you what you need as well.

the impreza's are definitely lighter. i have a 1997 impreza OBS. owned it from 60k - 110k so far and the only non maintenance items i've replaced are one CV axle. i've got an annoying EGR issue that causes a check engine light that is mostly an annoyance. WRX 6 dash in disk changer that also plays tapes is a nice upgrade for my wife and i. it's not a "system" but does the trick for us. no complaints really but do get an occassional bizarre clicking noise i've never identified. it's been there after the new axle was installed, swapping wheels, replaced brakes, etc. other than that i've done the timing belt, water pump stuff with it. the rear drums are not that bad, but it is a rather large job. have to swap the entire rear hubs or disassemble and get all the right parts and have to deal with the emergency brake. either get the drum cable to work on the disk or swap a disc brake cable in. rust makes the job a real PITA.

no, it'll bolt right up with no problems. final drive might be different, but i doubt it. the EJ25 went with a hydraulic clutch set up, don't think the EJ18 would have gotten that though?

reman block set should have everything needed to split the block - not much too it really. the "overall" gasket set sounds weird, never heard that terminology before, is that a head set or head gasket set?

chasing the threads in the hole with a tap and on the bolt with a die is a good idea if proper torque or breakage is a concern.

i would think a legacy sedan is a better fit than an impreza for you. they are better built, heavier and just more solid in those regards. not that impreza's really have issues, i'm just basing that on your input. many mid to late 90's impreza's have rear drums and small front brakes. so you'll be wanting to upgrade if you want better braking for towing. but that's easy enough, the drum to disk conversion is the annoying one.

like they said check the fuses and fusible links. i guess this is an EJ vehicle. on the EA series hooking up the battery the wrong way may fry the ECU. it actually blows part of the fuel pump circuit inside the ECU so everything works fine by the engine got no fuel. i got one to run one time that had this happen by hard wiring the fuel pump.

yes you will loose some ratio with the manual racks, not sure how noticeable it is or not. it's an easy job at least. a manual rack should feel nicer than a power steering rack without any fluid pressure.

Tim, i can drop one off the weekend before thanksgiving some time. you could come and get it but it's about 3 hours away from you right now.

yes, the EJ18 and EJ22 are insanely reliable.

hey, don't scare someone from a perfectly good possibility! this person probably doesn't know much about cars. i've done it and it does work. by "clearing the codes" i assume she doesn't own an OBDII scantool and will have it done somewhere else - that means she has to drive to the emissions testing station...getting past whatever mode you speak of. i've actually done this before and it works. so long as the CEL doesn't come back on before you get to the station you're golden.

i'm confused?

yeah, they're really heavy. you do not want to be needing to lift/move those very much even if you're massively in shape, athletic, adrenaline, drunk, crazy...etc. working under is the annoying part, but the transmission comes out way faster than the engine if you work from underneath. someone else uses an engine lift, through the engine bay to drop the trans. use the lift to take the load off and maneuver the trans through the space between the engine and transmission. i'd like to try a trans jack, like he mentioned and see how well that works, but haven't had the opportunity yet.

i do not know about the EJ20 but EJ18 and EJ22 intake manifolds will not bolt up to the EJ25 (none - SOHC or DOHC). as a last resort you could swap the EJ25 intake manifold wiring harness onto the EJ22 intake manifold. i believe the injectors are even interchangeable but i've never done it. exhaust is easy to deal with, no electronics. EJ22 dual port head exhaust bolts up to EJ25 (1995 and earlier EJ22's have dual port heads, 1996+ have single port and do not bolt up). EJ18's are dual port and i'm guessing they bolt right up. either way it doesn't matter, the exhaust manifolds are easily exchangeable between them all. but you might be in a pickle for an easy swap this way...because dual port heads are older and might be OBDI verses your 96 which may be OBDII...but that is all speculation on my part. something to look into. don't know how to tell the difference accept to say that OBDII you can plug in and use the OBDII scan gauge, OBDI you can not. if this was my project i'd install an EJ22 with a turbo. they are good for mild boost, will get you more horsepower, cheaper, easier install, and even better yet no head gaskets to deal with like on the EJ25.