idosubaru

i don't know if this SPFI has the hot wire style MAF or not, i think it does? if the car runs bad, hesitating and backfiring, remove the MAF and look at the hair thin wires. if one is broken, this will be your problem. if one wire breaks an XT6 will still run, but badly, i would assume other models would perform similarly. while you're in there, have a can of MAF sensor cleaner handy and if the wires are good, go ahead and clean them anyway. as for the idle air control, on the XT6, the IAC is always remedied by a simple cleaning. drench it internally with brake cleaner and it'll free right up. i've never seen one actually fail...i'm sure it's happened, but it's very uncommon.

WOW. that is definitely scrap, glad you didn't try to fix that!

if this is indeed a CTS code 21 issue then your contacts are at fault. dirt and corrossion is your problem, not the sensor. no need for any electrical measurements, this is a real easy fix. replacing the sensor is not the solution, though it may temporary alleviate it. i have a permanent fix to this recurring problem posted here: http://www.xt6.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1767&highlight=coolant+temperature+sensor+fix read through it and do as you see fit. i recommend the solder technique as there is no solid way to get the 20 year old stock harness connector back to acceptable condition on the ones i've seen.

i'd at least change the fluid and replace the filter (screw on filter for your model). doesn't cost much and has probably never been done. people often neglect ATF changes...they'll change their engine oil too often and completely neglect everything else! i can't promise anything but fresh ATF can make a big difference. are you sure the hesitation is transmission related? could be plugs and/or wires as well, it's possible they are original as well. be sure to use Subaru only wires and NGK plugs, the EJ25 is a sensitive engine.

very easy job...time escalates quickly if you have rusty bolts, sheared bolts or mess with the timing covers. rip the timing covers off and don't reuse them and your job gets lots easier. if you insist on retaining the timing belt covers, take some zip ties along so you don't have to reuse the stupid bolt/insert combo's in the covers. get skinny ones that can pass through an 8mm hole. if you're planning on doing the timing belts just to get home, you could install new belts and take a case of oil along. it's an easy job but start getting into a first time oil pump, water pump, cam seal, crank seal job and it's going to take you awhile most likely. if oil leakage is significant you'll want to address the leak right away, it will be the oil pump seal, crank seal or cam seals. you'll want to replace the crank seal, two cam seals (and o-ring, buy the cam seal kit, not just the cam seal), water pump, oil pump seal, oil pump gasket and oil pump o-ring. all of this stuff resides behind the timing belts and is fairly easy to do. also - a more common cause of timing belt failure than oil is a bad timing pulley bearing. check them all while you're in there and see if any are noisey or seized, i almost garauntee that none will be tight or feel anywhere close to new. this heats the belt and causes breakage very often as well. you can at least figure it out while yo'ure in there and source new pulleys or bearings or repack them at a later time. i just picked up a timing belt kit that came with 3 brand new pulleys (two tensioners and one sprocketed idler) for only $60.

search around and get one that's the same part number. the problem is pricing, it might be hard to find exactly the same part number for a reasonable price, if that's the case then i'd start experimenting. and post in the Parts Wanted Forum, someone may have the ECU you need. i wouldn't worry about the auto/manual issue, that won't end up being ECU specific issues. the reverse light deal is always an issue, but has nothing to do with the ECU. on the XT6 the ECU's are completely interchangeable across FWD, AWD auto and manual. ECU's have a billion different part numbers, but don't all have to match. they do need to be close though, but it's annoying figuring out which ones are compatible by part number. you will be very limited by part number, subaru likes to changes the numbers if the color of one screw is different. i would imagine an SPFI ECU will work. you could post here once you locate one and ask if there are possible EGR or other differences, but i think you'll be fine, but that's guesswork too as i don't have any specific SPFI ECU experience. for what it's worth an XT (4 cylinder) can run on an XT6 (6 cylinder) ECU...not very well but it does drive!

yep that's the part you're talking about. i wouldn't worry about it. might want to paint/prime/cover it to prevent rust.

i don't think it's a heat shield. i don't think you'll have a problem with that. it's probably related to reducing splash, spray, mud from going other places but i think the effects would be minimal.

i would address this pinging noise first before going over board on tune up and fluid changes. obviously...ignition stuff and oil is important, but i'd focus on the pinging first before spending lots of money on unneccessary items. i'm not a pinging expert, so i can't comment, but i'd start asking what is pinging and how can you get rid of it. it can ruin your engine. Fram's do indeed suck and any rebadged Fram is still a Fram. no need to mention my preference, it's already been mentioned and nearly all others are decent quality.

sounds like they know what they are doing with headgasket issues. they are replacing the water pump and cleaning out the radiator which are wise to do in this case. sounds like they have good experience and good workmanship, i'd go for it as well.

sweet deal, then get the 97 if it has the 2.2. i thought only Legacy Lsi had the 2.2. is the Legacy L something different, or only the Legacy Outbacks had the 2.5?

i'll be nice and give you a for instance - i'm looking at two 1997 Legacy GT sedans right now with blown headgaskets. both have 8x,xxx miles on them.

like i said, if yo'ure really interested i'd do a seach of "headgasket" in the new generation forums rather than turn this into a 10 page debate about the 2.5 headgaskets..which always happens. there's no need to reiterate information that is posted weekly. 63,000 miles doesn't mean anything, they go at 20k, 30k, 40k...this isn't an age or mileage issue at all, it's a defect, that's why subaru offered a newer designed headgasket for it and extended warranties and coolant additives (later 00-03 model EJ25's).

nipper said it - dealer is high for repairing gaskets. the independent gave you a better estimate. if the engine wasn't overheated much or often then the block is likely fine...plenty 2.5 headgaskets have been successfully replaced, but i wouldn't attempt it on a car that was driven or ran much with a bad gasket or while overheating as that greatly increases the chance of block issues.

type in headgasket in the search function of the new generation forum, all of those entries are the same 2.5 liter motor in that 1997 legacy you're looking at. i'd avoid that motor and if a $1,000+ repair any time after buying it would annoy you, then you should as well. if you wanted one, buy one cheap with a blown motor and install a new motor in it, don't pay full price for one....unless you don't care about the finance side of things, it's as much a game as anything to me. or....of the two you posted, get the 1995 as it has the EJ22 2.2 liter motor, no HG issues.

$2,100 is high, but what all are they replacing? a "head gasket job" can vary wildly depending on what all they replace. are they doing the clutch while the engine is out (typical on a high mileage manual trans)? that would add a significant amount. going rate is about $1,500 around these parts, $1,200 - $1,600 from most board members. you'll want to make sure price includes a new water pump

i've found it common to still read near zero even with new oil pumps and senders. my point is the original poster probably doesn't have anything to worry about, like the owners manual states assuming it goes up with RPM's.

yep, still available new for around $800 - $900

owners manual, go through one for the vehicle you have, lots of good info in there. it will state that oil pressure reading around zero is normal. they typically read low..near zero. replacing sending unit, resealing oil pump and even replacing the oil pump will help some...but even after all that they typically read low after warming up and at idle.

what he just said. yes yards will sell that part if they have a bad trans. i'd post on this forum in the parts wanted forum as a first step, if price was an issue. if not, then dump the grand and be done with it.

i'd check out NASIOC for all sorts of impreza turbo upgrade info.

steering racks are really easy to replace. as expensive as tie rods are, if you had another rack lying around it would be very easy to put in place. but new tie rods are a nice thing, for safety.

replacing the trans is a bad idea. if money is an issue i'd suggest considering replacing the rear extension housing with a used unit. post in the parts wanted forum and call some yards. if you find a cheap unit that's known to be good then that's an option that would probably run $500.

crack, i forgot the exhaust. that will most likely need to be removed. i have dropped a driveshaft before by squeezing it through and pushing the exhaust out of the way, but doubt that's how you should do this. it'll be in the way of replacing the seal probably. rusty exhaust bolts suck for sure. spray down with PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench as much and often as you can before touching rusty bolts. WD40 is not a good alternative.

flip through your owners manual. it will likely say replace your trans fluid every 60,000 miles or 30,000 under severe duty (rough, dirty roads or towing). yes, replace it and read through your owners manual. if you have any questions, ask here. replacing the transmission fluid should'nt cost more than $100. and definitley do it. i didn't see in your thread if it's a FWD or AWD...if it's AWD you would be very very wise to change it, but you should change it either way. your transmission also has a front differential, not a bad idea to change that, use synthetic gear oil for that - it only takes a couple dollars worth of gear oil for that, much cheaper than the ATF flush.