idosubaru

i forget the years and models, but if you have a plastic rear separator plate, install a metal one while the engine is out. get a clutch kit - new clutch, pressure plate, throw out and pilot bearings. i'd be mostly concerned about the water pump. the oil pump and seals could wait. i would replace them but if you keep an eye on the oil and fill it up if it starts getting low, then you can wait and do them the next timing belt change. the front crank seal is integrated in the oil pump, so it's actually easy to replace with the motor in the car unlike the older subaru's. just keep an eye on the oil and make sure no leaks develop or get worse. i think this is a 60,000 mile interval timing belt. so you're looking at 180,000 or more before the next replacement. you're asking the stock water pump to make it 180,000 miles. it can make it, but plenty stock pumps fail well before then as well. the water pump isn't that hard to install....it's kind of chump change compared to pulling a motor. you can sustain oil leaks, but coolant isn't really a consumable item, if you start loosing it that's a very bad thing. i'd do everything now, but what i'll recommend to you and feel confident about is to do the water pump, thermostat and hoses/clamps now and then at the next timing belt do all your seals and replace most of the timing belt pulleys unless they are really good and tight.

if the check engine light has ever came on, you need to read the codes and see what it's throwing. follow up and let us know. these guys have two gas tanks for your vehicle for only $75 and they're in Ontario..>ROCK ON!!!!!: 1-519-621-3240 1-800-265-9817

a skilled mechanic can find a way to plug that gas tank. but if it's leaking due to rust might be best to replace anyway. won't know till they look at it. or as a last resort, replace it with a used one. in the states it wouldn't be hard to find a good used one for cheap. sending unit and fuel pump are completely different. as for the idling. does the check engine light ever come on? first thing that comes to mind on any EJ motor like yours is the ignition. these motors are very sensitive to good functioning ingnition so make sure your plugs and wires are good. does it run, drive and shift fine? is it just the idling that's the issue? check TPS and throttle cable and there should be something that controls the idle - i can't recall how the EJ does that since i haven't seen that problem yet. also - a vacuum leak may cause your condition as well....look for a cracked intake hose or disconnected/cracked hose elsewhere. spraying starter fluid around the hoses will show you the leak, the engine will rev up if the fluid gets sucked in. while you're doing that, be sure to squirt the intake manifold gaskets as they can leak as well.

i'll also thumbs up to the over-torque method as well. i clean the crap out of my bolts and bolt holes, get them squeaky clean and i still tighten them over like mentioned above.

the 1991 XT was MPFI 1.8 liter.

order a rebuilt from MWE, they are highly respected and do great work in Denver CO. $100-$130 for axle and shipping probably? i'm flying to Denver Thursday and taking two with me for those guys! often they have axles in stock, so no wait (i have an XT6, a real freak of a subaru so they weren't sure they'd have it): http://www.ultimatesubaru.net/forum/...ad.php?t=49775

i've seen some that the little rivet needs to be lined up with the indentation the caliper piston. this would most likely be old school stuff though that im' thinking about with the faced pistons and front e-brake. for newer stuff i don't think it matters, but i've never paid much attention to it either. i've never seen a subaru old or new gen need anti squeal or grease or anything added. slap them pads, replace rotors as needed and you should be golden.

let me clarify "the only way to tow an AWD auto Subaru without risking damage"...yes. i do it all the time. when i settle on this new house im' buying a flat bed trailer. tow dollys are annoying anyway, can't use them for anything else. at least a flat trailer is multi-purpose, wish i would have thought about that ahead of time. flat trailer rentals aren't that bad if you want to try that route. driveshafts can be annoying to drop. i've done enough to know that rusted bolts are not your friend. and you can't get to them all at one time. so it's remove one or two (there are 4 total)...then jack car up so you can rotate by hand or roll car and hope you don't go to far...gets annoying to try and get them all out. not terribly difficult, but annoying. rain, time constraints, darkness, wet ground, limited space, rusted bolts can make things ugly. i've had some where i could not get the bolts off...the nuts would just round off. REALLY ANNOYING. the longer the vehicle has been sitting, the more likely rust may be an issue. go flatbed anytime you have the opportunity, but a dolly works as well.

for head gaskets i like fel-pro, OEM and corteco. the XT6 doesn't require a retorque even with factory gaskets so that's never been an issue. but big plus on the EA82's i've done.

yes, Dima is running ATF i believe. others have posted of serious leaks (as the owners manual suggests i believe) in the past though.

subaru says you can tow their AWD manual trans with all 4 on the ground: http://www.subaru.com/owners/carcaretips/index.jsp?pageid=towing&navid=TOWING_A_SUBARU i'd decline on doing it with an AWD. with the car on and in neutral though it wouldn't be any different then coasting down a hill in neutral (which probably isn't recommended), but wouldn't hurt for a short distance. like Manarius said early...who wants to find out how long, how fast you have to go before or if it does cause issue?

i've towed dozens of times on a dolly by removing the driveshaft. the only thing turning is the wheels and rear diff. the transmission doesn't even spin since the driveshaft is removed, it can't. it just sits there. if the transmission can break with the driveshaft removed on a tow dolly, then it can break while sitting in your driveway, so i hope you're parking it on a flatbed at night! (just a joke!) rear diffs are unaffected. if a rear diff was affected by towing, then tow dollys would have never been made. also...when towing, both rear wheels are going forward. the same as when you're driving. disconnect the driveshaft and tow away. i'm almost positive the manuals say to disconnect the driveshaft before towing. don't scare the non-knowledgeable, this is how numerous threads and misinformation get propogated.

do not go the rebuild route, it's not worth it at all. i wouldn't worry too much about what AAMCO guys said. they're used to seeing Fords, GM's, Hyundais.....they could be right, but Subaru transmissions are quite resilient. though the TB issue is prevalent. make sure all the tires match (even brand should match since same size but different brand can vary by a decent amount). then do the flush. do 3 drain and refills yourself if someone else won't do it. i'd wonder about the metal flakes too, i'd want to see them myself. and why in the hell did they pull the pan? that's BS if you ask me. that's just asking for future sealing problems on the pan/gasket mating surface if it was for no reason. the clutch packs can be replaced in the car. find a used transmission...possibly even a broken transmission and swap rear extension housings. it can be done in the car, without removing the transmission. if you supplied the rear extension housing, a shop will install it for you. just stop in and ask around. the local transmission shop in town will install your-supplied transmission for only $150 - $200 including a new ATF filter (which for the in pan variety i'd just refuse anyway, not even worth removing and worrying about that stupid o-ring on the neck). i'd say that's on the low end for costs...i'd expect closer to $300-$350 range, but it doesn't take long to swap a trans when you have good equipment. transmissions can be found in the $250-$400 range without much problem, so this could be well under $1,000 depending on prices. i'd install the FWD, do the flush and just put some feelers out for another transmission. post on the parts wanted forum here.

you will be fine to wait until spring. a rear boot won't be making any noise by then unless you go bury the car in mud....even then mine never do and i've done that on multiple occassions as well. i always wait until a brake job, or installing an LSD..some other major work before wasting my time on an axle. it'll give you time to source a good Subaru axle as well. don't buy an aftermarket POS. i'm headed to Denver in two days and im' taking two XT6 axles with me to MWE, they're listed in the Vendor Forum and rebuild Subaru axles if you want to check them out. me either, that is an interesting experiment to do though, the TCU gets very confused in an XT6.

i would never consider doing it, but the rack and lines would swap easily. the pump would be the issue...nowhere to bolt it and would have to figure out mounting, new belts/pulleys.... but i would never do it. the XT6 power steering, while over engineered is nearly flawless in my experience. i've put probably 300,000 miles on XT6's and have never done anything but replace the brushes (very easy). i have an extra power controller and computer if i ever needed, got a few actually. but never have. they are very easy to replace anyway if i ever needed too. i'm all about ditching the belt and having it electric. iwhich is why i converted my XT Turbo EA82T to XT6 power steering. replaced the EA82T XT Turbo rack, lines and pump with all XT6 stuff.

thanks huck!

for axle nuts, 3/4" sockets are the way to go. i went through the hassle of breaking multiple 1/2" sockets, break bars and brands for a long time. i finally upgraded to a 3/4" socket wrench and slide a long freaking pipe (3 or 4 foot) over the handle. well worth the investment. no more broken parts and makes the job very easy.

i've never seen anyone on the XT6 groups deciper this and i don't know either. it is said that the seals in the pump go bad if you use the wrong type of fluid. i have never had that happen (i always use the right stuff), but that's what i've heard. the XT6 does not have a belt driven power steering pump. it's an electrical pump dedicated to the XT6 only. so it's completely unrelated to any other power steering pump. the pump is controlled by a power controller and computer. the power assist is varied dependant on vehicle speed and steering sensor input. it has various modes of operation dependant on a few driving variables.

EJ25 would bolt up just fine, it's a direct swap minus some very minor power steering and a/c bracket stuff. very easy, plug and play. bolts up and plugs in. the EG33....i'll point a good friend to this thread that has done extensive work on the EG33, including swapping it into another subaru. the wiring is certainly the biggest PITA, but otherwise this motor will bolt directly to your transmission and i'm almost positive the motors mounts won't be an issue either.

best to stick to that XT6 specific power steering fluid unfortunately. if someone has it, have them mail it to you in a soda bottle or something (tell them the soda is on you). before pouring in this "liquid gold" i'd make sure you check for leaks. usually the smaller rubber hose with clamps is the one prone to leaking. being that's it's off the shelf hosing that costs a couple quarters, i'd go ahead and replace it before adding any of this stuff. if it's low, it's low for a reason. it doesn't just disappear or go down due to normal usage like brake fluid does. there are only like 40 or 50 bottles left in the US i believe. i bought like 4 of them once i found out.

okay, cool, excellent questions....let's see if the no replacement for displacement might be the best option for you: you might want to consider an EG33 (6 cylinder SVX) engine. 230 hp stock, non turbo Subaru EJ series that will bolt right up to your transmission. they are excellent engines by the way, very reliable and functionally non-inteference with 230 hp stock. that's almost 100 more hp right out of the box with no modifications. being an EJ series it'll bolt right up to your transmission and i'm almost positive the engine mounts will even drop into place. these engines can be found fairly inexpensively. the pluses are tons more hp and it bolts right up to your trans, no turbo, non-interference and reliable. the wiring harness install and the length of the engine are the major obstacles. have to check on those. you could also install a 2.5 engine. they put out 165 hp...i think that's 25 hp more than an EJ22. might be best to start with one of those. 2.2's and 2.5's are interchangeable, even down to the wiring. an EJ22 plugs right into an EJ25 wiring harness. that's an instant 25 hp. install the lightened goodies before dropping it in and sell your EJ22 to recoupe some costs.

i'd wonder if that wasn't a previously replaced aftermarket axle. subaru axles rarely blow (on stock subaru's). if you've done a few subaru' timing belts, the timing pulleys loose grease, even with the seals. i have a write-up posted on here about how to repack them. i've seen seized pulleys, broken pulleys, etc. there are threads with failed pulleys on the forums here, but CV failures comparable to this guys situation are very rare. don't you have an EJ22 engine swapped into your loyale, so the axles and CV's are seeing more than %50 more power than the car came with stock? also, do you drive off road with a lifted vehicle? that is far from tyipcal. i mentioned a disclamier about that. i believe your car is lifted? if this is the same vehicle we're talking about, i don't know that this is really comparing apples to apples. from another thread: if this is the vehicle you're talking about then there might be some other explanations to why your CV exploded other than just the boot was broken.

the EJ22 is easier and lighter to install in a subaru than a V8. a V8 probably isn't compatible with AWD, offroad and gas mileage or as reliable as an EJ22. but mounting one would be such an issue anyway. Ej22 in an EA82 sounds like a great swap. i'd love to try it if i had the time.

that's highly unlikely to happen, and i don't think it's a good idea to use scare tactics in an open forum. if you know CV's and you know how well built subaru CV axlea are, it will be a rare case for a CV to fail without any prior warning to your ears (if you don't believe me, use the search function on this forum, i doubt you'll find one instance of a cv failure like this). i've been around subaru's and various online groups for going on a decade now and have never even heard of that happening. CV's will begin to make noise as they wear...and there again they will take many tens of thousands of miles of noise making to fail. i've driven front CV's that were clicking for 20,000+ miles (closer to 50,000 in reality, but i don't know the exact number), i just wait until i have to replace somethign else before doing it. aftermarket CV axle quality is so poor that i'd keep my broken boot, clicking joints or install a used axle before ever installing an aftermarket. statistically speaking the chances of a wheel bearing failing are more likely than your broken boot axle failing...or even making a noise for that matter. if you're that concerned about a rear axle completely failing, you better replace your wheel bearings and timing pulley bearings too. they are also gradually loosing grease over time as well and statistically just as likely to "go" and further damage something. do a search on timing belts, timing pulleys, water pumps, wheel bearings. you'll see multiple threads about those failing..many more of those than failing CV's (which you wont' find any of except in the off-road lifted rig forum and that doesn't count, those dudes are nuts!). one exception ill make is if you're driving on sand...if you do beach driving and flinging sand and salt water all up under your car, that's not good for many things, including a broken CV. i've done it. they get loud. but i still drove from Florida to Maryland clicknig madly that way (900 + miles) and continued driving it until i got around to replacing it. (that's the time i installed a new axle that blew to pieces within a weeK!). so even still....you get thousands of miles of warning and noise to let you know you need to think about changing it.

i'd leave the boot. the rears never fail. maybe they do if you run a lifted off-road rig. i have never replaced a rear split boot on my own soobs. i've put 100,000 miles on a split rear boot and they've never even clicked or made any noise. mine are split now and i never plan on replacing them. only 115,000 on that vehicle. i'll see 200,000 and will never replace those axles or boots, i can almost garuantee it. if they ever start making noise (which they won't), i'll think about it. i drive off road a fair amount too, have had my car buried to the point where mud pours in when i open the door, drive in snow all the time.....i'd leave it, it's not worth the trouble. splits boots are low percentage. they're good for passing an inspection....if you get there quick before it comes apart! i've never installed one, but my friends have and they didn't last very long at all. a couple months at best. your best bet if you really want to do this is just buy a used axle for $25 and install it. but the you have the bolt issue to deal with again....so i go back to point number one...it's really a pointless job.