idosubaru

duplicate

The one bearing is $100 new from Subaru. obviously there are many variables: engine size, use, temps, mountains, weight of vehicle, driving style, and what precisely is failing... I drove one on purpose to its grave. I forget exactly, though I bet I’ve said before on this forum. but I think mine went 10-15k whining before it got louder and started shifting and driving erratic. That lasted a couple weeks before it completely destructed (in my driveway hip hip hooray). If the noise is getting notably louder or it starts incurring symptoms - I’d consider that a sign of imminent problems.

It sort of depends on rust, issues, local market volume, time of year...etc. That wouldn’t be worth much in some rust prone or inflated areas where that vehicle is considerably dated. If you know of a great local place to donate or can ask some friends, by all means support and engage the local community Or List it for a week or two and see if your market supports a parts car sale. Then decide. There are certainly people looking for matching body panels to fix a deer collision or hail damage or a blown headgasket, so you might find someone who wants it. You don’t give condition but that is worth $250-$500 high end around here as a parts car.

that’s a fair number of miles! New engine it is!!! I use grease to hold rockers in place. can also tilt the engine or entire car with a jack so the side you’re currently working on is “leaning slightly”. by not retorquing I mean I’d rather not retorque and would install new Fel Pro PTs out of the vehicle rather than retorque in the vehicle. *temporarily* install the cam carrier dry only if youre going to remove the carrier to retorque. Install carrier dry, remove carrier to retorque, *then seal* the carrier after the retorque.

No idea, I wasn’t aware that’s a possibility. I don’t think that’s the issue in this case. The lift causing angle issues makes sense for a few reasons. Particularly since I have issues and no one else does.

How did you modify the inner cup? Okay - so you think being lifted too high will cause axle issues like this? You've seen this before?

You're saying the EJ cv joints fit perfectly on the GL-10 axle? Do you know if they would fit on an XT6 axle shaft?

Why replace a known running engine with questionable? I don’t think I’d retorque the bolts but If you’re going to retorque in the car, pull the cam carriers, clean all the mating surfaces and install them dry or with a very easy to remove sealant. Pulling the cam carriers insitu on an EA82 is pretty easy, cleaning sealant off is probably the most time consuming part. Can you find a junk EA82 to buy and a test rig then sell it when you’re done? Or just buy a cheap Subaru to drive while you “test” the engine in your currrnt car if down time is a concern? If you’re able to build a test jig then buying and selling a Subaru is a cake walk. Both of those sounds easier than fabricating a jig for what is probably a one time stint and loss of money and time. Compared to building your own test jig and running it on a stand - just installing the engine and running it or retorquing or installing Fel Pro HGs all sounds simple.

Alternator belt, drive belt, Power steering belt, water pump... Use rockauto.com or Subaru part numbers and search for those with google. Rock auto has gobs of belts listed. Im not sure how many different belts exist but there are a few EA82 configurations over the years. V belt, serpentine belt, factory AC, dealer installed AC.....

There’s a reason those turbo Subaru’s can be found dirt cheap with blown engines. Proceed cautiously or learn the hard way $$$$$.

Slide pin bushings. They can swell/stretch and hang the one side of the caliper. using old school generic grease is often problematic with the bushings. If that’s the case then address all of them now, or just the one problematic one. Use something silicon based appropriate for pins with bushings. I use Sil Glyde. Older Subaru’s and vehicles never had bushing and it didn’t matter Replace, or just throw them away and run them with no bushings. I do it all the time for hundreds of thousands of miles. They’re not necessary at al.

Oh yeah - same thing - all the seals are easy to do in the car. no one removes the engines for belts, oil/cam seals or water pump. Entire front end reseal and timing job is routine service for most Subaru shops and Subaru people. Get an FSM and look at the steps. Ask if you have any questions. Very easy. The crank seal has limited space to remove and install but there’s easy enough ways to do it. Everything else is a piece of cake.

It can be repaired in 15 minutes. No one removes the engine. Where did that come from? From what you’ve said so far - plan on replacing all the pulleys and both timing belts. Do not just replace the belt. if there’s oil then reseal the oil pump and replace the cam seal and cam cap oring. Personally I would just do this at the same time because it’s easy cheap and smart. it’s easy - loosen 12mm tensioner bolts and swap the belt. Put a slight amount of tension on the cam pulley to tighten the belt as you tighten the tensioner bolt down get an FSM online for free for any EA82 and ask any questions you might have.

I assume you know, or are confident, it’s not a separating crank pulley? Youve probably seen gobs of those late 90s bad alternators, very common. Phase I EJ25 Subaru OEM remans are ~ $75.

Nice work!!! Have you had it happen on manuals only or autos as well?

And sometimes the old grease pours out like water when you pull the boot.

Also it might help to be clear and truthful. Folks complain about axles - can't find, etc - but many times the axles they're looking for are readily available (often I have them on hand while I'm reading people complain about them) and they never bother to ask on here or posts a parts wanted question/thread, clearly effort or $ must be the cause? So it seems when it comes down to it people are just lazy or cheap or something like that when it comes to axles. And I get that, I'm lazy and don't want to think about other things, so that's not a slight. Being clear about it - like you don't want to put any effort or $ into used OEM, or you do....will help things along and avoid a long ambiguous axle post.

1. clean, regrease, and reboot them. i've done it multiple times and OEM axles went from clickety clackety loud and shaking the rear view mirror - to perfectly smooth and quiet. 2. Used OEM axles. Aftermarket are trash - all of them. one might last 20,000 miles, i've seen multiple "new" "lifetime" different brands, blah blah blah blow up in under 100 miles. OEM's never do that. i've seen many aftermarket failures, I couldn't count them if i tried. I've seen a few blow up catastrophically while driving and luckily no damage but the possibility of damage was imminent with those heavy parts flailing around. 3. If wasting time, high risk of issues, and reasonable risk of catastrophic failures (which i've seen multiple times and I'm not even a shop worker/owner) is okay with you - buy whatever is easy/cheap/exchangeable/locally availble/shippable and keep swapping as needed. rockauto often has cheap axles available. buy one extra for a spare.

pull the retaining plate on the passengers side and see if there's a way to get the plastic drive gear bits out. if you need to reuse that front diff, mark the retaining ring location and number of turns to remove it so you can reinstall it in the same position.

Hope for the best but old posts often don’t see a reply with more info other than words like you already have here. 96 era door lock timers can also be flaky. It’s been like 8 years since I worked on one but I think They’re invisibly buried behind the passengers side dash. might want to verify the issue if you’re unsure.

it's not diff or VLSD related. 1. what brand clutch - i don't think it would be even a small surprise for a cheap clutch kit to have issues out of the box? 2. was it wet inside from any fluid leaks? 3. what was replaced - *just the clutch*...pressure plate, throw out bearing...?

Return the store bought garbage and replace the contacts and brushes in the original starter. Super easy. the store bought alternator has a good chance of stranding you at any time. I’ve seen “New” “lifetime” “Bosch” - all of the above fail in a matter of months. They’re easy to remove. Two 12mm bolts hold it to the transmission/engine. Electrical nut is also a 12mm....maybe a 10mm. That’s it. if you’re unfamiliar and hesitant then it may help with visibility and room to remove the intake hose to the throttle body. Just 10 mm fasteners for the clamps and hose clamps for all the PCV stuff. But if it’s cold and they’re ancient the PCV hoses can crack.

Message sent. If you’re a new member or have only a few posts you may not be able to read messages. my email is gmail with this username.

Easiest solution is an inline FM Modulator. You just plug the cars existing antenna wire into it right behind the stereo, and then the modulator has its own antenna that plugs into the Stock stereo antenna location. give it power (easy) and you’re done. the cigarette modulators haven’t worked well for me. And to be clear my only requirement is to be able to hear it without turning the volume to 100% with road noise, storms, wipers. That’s it. I’m not an audio buff and usually listen to interviews/books and phone calls. ive tried a few and I’m not sure how they get 5 star reviews. Maybe a few out of 10 are good, or maybe it depends where you live, or I have terrible luck. But the ones I’ve tried have many issues. I’ve experienced all of the following - they usually have most of these symptoms, not just one: weak as soggy cornbread. Turn volume to 100% to be audible over road noise on interstate or having wipers on. don’t handle any teeny distant station noise at all. They interfere with other stations. Set it for 87.7 and other stations buzz until you unplug it. They exhibit interference from the cars engine. I’ve heard some go in and out simply by putting things like your arm or a lid over top of them. If you drive through any cities - real annoying, constantly changing it. the cigarette lighter ones are so easy and cheap just like they were 10 or more years ago. Thats their chief value and some people seem to get them to work. And I was hoping they were better now with better tech. I was convinced by another thread here just a month or so ago to try some again. I did and they work exactly as “good” as 15 years ago. the cheap wireless are worth a try for some people. Otherwise get the wired ones and be done with it. .

I have an EA82T turbo. $100 shipped.