idosubaru

crazy freaks, you guys rock. thanks for sharing. i hate carbs, but am totally jealous that i can't do that with EFI.

i'm assuming this is a direct swap?

sounds like it's going good - at least you don't have the 98 and up issues. 95 and 96 drop right in with only P/S questions. and i bet that is minimal if not non-existant.

Morgan, hope you're subscribed to this thread! i just removed the power steering pump from my XT Turbo and will only be driving the alt and water pump as well. do you have any info on the exact belt you're using? length, part number, where you got it? i had a terrible time getting the right belt for my non stock XT6, ended up with a 4 ribbed belt instead of the stock 6 cause they couldn't get the size i needed. looks like the EA82 might not be as tricky.

i believe he only had starter bolt issues because he has a '99 car, if you notice i mentioned that in my last post. so - your starter bolt issue is solved - because there won't be an issue. only issue i can see is power steering line related. i think this could be related to the 1999 model year as well. i'm almost certain that if you grab a 2.2 with the power steering pump and the lines connecting to the pump those will bolt right in your vehicle. but i'm not positive on that one.

everything is relative, compared to pulling a motor lots of things are minor. you are correct that 97 started the 2.2 inteference engine. if you have a 95 engine (dual port exhaust) or a 96 engine (single port) with the exhaust header - everything will bolt right up to your 2.5 liter set up. nothing out of the ordinary or custom needed. i'm not positive of this, but i thought the starter bolt issues were only on 1998 and up as the motor and auto trans changed some that year. only one of the two starter bolts would line up. in which case your options are to drill out the other hole and tap (the location is already there, it's just not tapped) or only use one bolt. both of which has been done with no issues.

start reading. if you're starting out like i did with no mechanical knowledge, friends or family that do anything like this then your best bet is to hit these boards and the Factory Service Manual (FSM) for your vehicle. make a list of things you want to do and get familiar with the *search* function, i've learned alot from that thing. lots of awesome subaru specific or model specific information, tricks and tips here that go well beyond what even a mechanic or FSM could tell you. good luck and have fun.

you aren't confined to the 95. newer model 2.2's work as well. if you use a 96/97 2.2 then you'll need the exhaust header as well, that's all. it bolts right in place. get the exhaust header and power steering pump w/ lines connected to it and the newer model 2.2's will swap as well.

i don't know anything about the 3 speed, but there's more information on this board. there's a search function that might help.

check the MAF - if it's the hot wire type, pull it off and look at the wires inside of it, they are very hard to see because they are so thin. but it's really easy to look in there. if any are broken that will cause the issues you're having and the ECU will not throw any codes. more guesses: are the timing belts set dead on and tensioned properly? bad distributor. you say the CTS isn't plugged in, else i'd guess that to be at fault as well. maybe injector #3 has issues?

can you give a better description of where it's leaking from? a photo of the leak would be awesome. a leak on top the transmission sounds really weird, so that's why i'm asking for more details. i'd expect a leak at the rear output shaft, the axle stubs or the drain plug. those are the main leak points. the manual doesn't say much because transmission leaks aren't common and typically are very easy to figure out. if it's leaking out the rear, it's the rear output shaft seal. same for the front two diff/axle stub seals. if it is coming from between the engine and trans that's not a good thing as i just worked on a transmission last night and there's definitely no external seal there that would be easy to get to. and if there was i don't think it would be worth the effort to replace it. the transmission may be fine, but it also might be toast. running without oil ruins things quickly.

if the motor is moving too much, try getting a longer hose (if possible?) or at least adjusting the existing one, moving the hose on the engine side a little if you've got room. i wouldn't move the radiator side as the radiator is plastic and you need as much grip on there as possible and keep it from the end where it's possible to crack. love your neighbor! ever think about confronting them? ask them to start over, forget the BS, appologize (even if you didn't do anything) and try to go from there. sorry...maybe we can start a "fix your neighbor forum".. good luck with the hose.

that sucks. i've probably ordered a dozen or more times from them and no issue yet. at least they did the right thing, that's good to know for future reference even though it required persistence. the price we pay for cheap parts! i've gotten the wrong part (2WD for 4WD actually) ordering from subaru before....you think if anyone would know they would. good luck, hopefully it didn't set you back to bad. that had to suck opening up that box, ready to go at it. complimentary overnight shipping would have been sweet.

they have to be available from somewhere as the place on ccr's website rebuilt them.

that's definitely interesting. in any event, a friend of mine that owns his own business fixed one last year that threw a belt. said it wasn't that bad at all. needed one or two valves and the pistons and cylinder walls were fine. probably a slow speed break i guess.

you are fine. drain the fluids and replace, they could have run quite hot, but even that i would consider overkill, but never a bad idea. people get towed all the time, with two wheels down and two floaters with no problems. i don't recommend it, but it happens.

valves will hit valves....after the piston smashes them sideways!

the valve only go up and down so if they collide they collide, if they don't they don't. can't imagine the t-belt changing that, but i could be wrong. the ports can't overlap, so someone explain if that's true. i've worked on 2.5's and 2.2's, but never DOHC. in the interference motors you'll have piston to valve contact. level of damage will vary.

non interference.

i like the sound of that fix too. i would avoid locktite myself.

from the front with a lift. depends what you're doing with the "donor" car. if you can hack away at the hoses, wires and cables you can have it out in an hour a half (less if you're fast or done it before). i'd plan on 2-3 if you're not trying to break records and disconnect things. really depends how much hacking you want to do. cut everything - wires, hoses, throttle cables, trans cables (on the car side of the engine harness obviously, you'll need the engine connectors), sawzall some stuff, cut the exhaust, you could have it out in under an hour. this is feasible on a donor car as you'll use all the cables, hoses and wires from the receiving vehicle.

a shop can replace a bad ujoint for about $100-$200 with the rockford ujoints i used in mine. i have never seen a bad ujoint last a year without getting noticeably worse or failing completely. the bad ones i've seen typically have the rear view mirror shaking quite humorously...which is why the mechanic said to wait until it was "unbearable" because they normally get worse. once they remove the drive shaft it should be easy to tell, as the ujoints will be stiff, lumpy or frozen. should only need one replaced, they run $40 per ujoint plug installation/labor cost. vibration can be attributed to many things - wheel balance, tires, snow/mud packed inside the wheel.

you said your rear air suspension was still in use. this computer controls those, so disconnecting the connector will make it such that they don't work anymore. if you disconnect with air in and they don't leak they should stay there for awhile and you can reconnect if they ever need to air up. this picture is from an XT6 - so im' not positive if it will look the same, but i know other EA82 air compressors and some air components look the same and the canadian model XT6 had air ride height buttons like the EA82, so it could be the same. i'd imagine it's routed the same way, behind the fuse box, down by the handle to pop the engine hood.

start with a screw driver and work your way up to wrenches, prybars and chisels to separate. the key is to gradaully and patiently work your way all the way around the bellhousing a little at a time. it'll separate easy that way, although it takes a few minutes and some patience because you just want the thing out of there by that point! if you have a lift you can always pull the entire engine/trans combo together at the same time and separate them outside the car. i can have a trans out much quicker from underneath than through the hood with my engine lift. but it is certainly easier in many ways to use a lift, working under the car sucks. good job getting it out, you saved yourself some time and effort compared to pulling the motor, hopefully it goes back in easy.

there's also a connector in the door that could be pulled out or loose. more probably if that door has been in an accident or worked on before - window, speakers, etc.