ShawnW

Yup, thats low. A leak down would tell more about rings, etc. Temp gauge on a Subaru with analog gauges reads just under half usually theres a mark around there to kindof give you an idea where it ought to be.

Vasoline.

On an 81 its actually in the engine compartment most of the time. It will be near the wiper motor up in the corner of the engine compartment and be kindof square about 1.5" x 1.5" with a bracket mounting it and fuel lines running in & out with a 2 wire plug to it.

Check out the Toyo Proxxes tires.

Torsion bar bolt is accessed from under the brat. Center of the driveline on the torsion bar on the trianglular thing that sticks out the back of the torsion bar. Its probably a 19MM head if I remember correctly.

If its the weekend of the 15th I cant make it. Ill be in South Carolina.

So which axles does this use?

Also make sure your ASV silencer hasnt grenaded and shot plastic into the carb.

I thought the heater control one was a hard line going thru the firewall. This ones a flexible rubber line going thru the big grommet.

With a little luck I will be posting a picture of my Turbowagon in this years photos. For now it just looks like Subaru Junkies except silver.

nope, The grommet is horizantally in the body and the wiring harness goes thru it.

Theres a Platinum plug and a standard plug (copper I think). If the dealer ones are Platinum, and you have an ej25 engine, get them. The PITA factor on replacing them is worth the longer life plugs.

Napa and custom wheel shops have lots of them if youre willing to change hole diameter or thread type.

VTEC sticker? Those add power right?

The downside to that engine is its the interference model. I would hold out for a 90-94 myself.

Im just glad to see another dog named for a Subaru! Sube (mine) is a really great dog thusfar, just an attention whore all the time and I can live with that. Here he is as a pup, now hes 4.

The turbo is the only one that has a 2 belt pulley on the WP. Is the crank pulley 2 groove or 3? Theres some that have a middle groove thats deeper that is rarely used, I believe those are the cars that have the "this car is equipped for addition of optional AC" badge on the heater controls. Those cars sometimes have a funky tensioner that flips down below the Alternator.

Its not the AC drain. This is up in the top of the engine compartment to the left (pass side) of the spare tire area.

This one comes out of the pass side large rubber grommet thats oval and 3" across. Anybody know what its for? I am removing Cruise control from the car and need to know if its unnecessary. Thanks!

The proper fix is to timesert the holes, reinstall factory studs and OEM gaskets. Some fixes are effective but remember that somebody else might have to work on the engine someday. Tapping it up to the next size is effective but the factory size works very well and tapping it out and not inserting it is only a temp fix usually. There are 4 holes because: Its a casting made for multiple engine types. Turbo uses the opposite holes as non, and Air Suction valve model cars use the additional holes for the plates to bolt onto. EA81 and EA82 carb'd engines from 81-86 or so utilize all 4 holes. Factory Y-pipes dont have the flip flanges but thats an excellent fix if you have that option go for it...just install the exhaust studs and nuts into those holes.

Higher prices can be had for a "daily driver". A for sale sign in the window while driving the car around is a really good way to unload it. If that means plating it for 40 bucks I would do it. Find a used tire shop and get the tires to stop squeeling, ignore the AC thats an accessory and isnt going to drive the price up on a car of this type....this car is reliable not gas guzzling transportation to the general public and thats the best way to advertise it, fix the windshield if thats required. Otherwise maybe a local subaru shop would want it for parts.

Grab em.

Pop the ball joint bolt out, the one that is horizantally thru the steering knuckle, and then pop the ball joint out of the knuckle with the control arm. At that point the knuckle is floating around hanging by the strut. Next pop the roll pin out of the trans end of the axle. Then just take a swing with a rubber mallet at the threaded end of the axle pushing it thru the wheel bearings. The whole assembly should come out as one piece. PM if you dont know about the axle deal, might be able to go lower for a local.

Decent as long as its not the head gasket. Im beginning to think thats what is wrong.

Pull the plugs and crank it over.