ShawnW

It is if you tell them its an 87. Unless its a real specific part I usually look up the car as an 83 or 84 model year as almost every part is the same.

Yes. I don't do many of them in my little shop but I have an older 134 AC machine that seems to work pretty good.

Just unplug it and tuck it under the sheet metal out of view where you can reach it. Same for the hoses on the top. I usually snug up the clamps slightly so they don't fall or put them in my parts tray with the tiny nuts.

Go check out the Subaru's of the 80's area brochures section. In 1983 the GL-10 was a GL with luxury stuff. Lots had Velour interior, extra speakers, power mirrors, and a few other goodies. Sometimes a Digital Dash, etc. The Turbo's are 1983.5 to 1984.5 models. Your estimates on the number of Turbo cars is probably wrong too-I have had at least 5-7 of these cars over the years and own 2 now, as well as have seen quite a few. They can't be as rare as the numbers mentioned.

I just don't think its financially sound to buy one for winter service versus just sacrificing one and taking care of it. You hate rust as much as the next guy so starting out with a clean one and taking the years you can with it being that way is just as beneficial and one less car to buy. Of course if you haven't moved the fleet yet-then selling the two or 3 newer cars before moving them from Texas might be smart and then buy one 1.8 AWD 5spd Impreza for winter service.

I would drive the Legacy in the Snow and I would equip it for that function. I would practically park it in the Summer months and "garage" policy that and flip it with one of the classics in the summer. That's how I do it and the insurance is much cheaper that way. They charge me like $6-8/month for a garage policy which covers the car if someone breaks in and steals it when its parked and that kind of damage policy. I don't honestly think either is better/worse for rusting but an Impreza is harder to come by and I like a manual in the snow more. Parking on a paved surface really helps. I don't think a garage is necessarily better but dirt is pretty awful.

Very cool! Congrats and glad you posted it.

It didn't do well for the standards of today but it certainly did ok. Lets keep in mind the overall cost of these cars, the technology of that time and that the safety standards weren't very high back then. I also look at it this way. Looks to me like you rear ended somebody to be in that situation. Better not do that.

Moved thread to the 70's marketplace. Seems like a pretty common part to need.

I just merged your accounts. Todds is now deleted and all its posts and such are merged with the new account. I can change your name to todds if you want or keep this "old sub freak" name. Shawn

I have had a few that did that and they were all the plastic variety. If you can't find an aluminum one I can ship one. Usually the T-Stat stays up in there long enough to put the housing and the bolts in but not always.

Tensioner is different, idlers are mostly the same and usually interchangable. Water pump and cam seals are the same. Crank seal same.

I'm with Ed on the bulbs.

Well thought out thats for sure. Hope it works sleeping in the cold is tough.

Don't cut the back wall out. At that point just get a Wagon.

What year is the car being worked on?

Add a camera to your items list please. Some of the best photos I have ever seen on this forum were shot at these events.

Sorry I didn't call you back. I was sleeping really soundly apparently. That's what I should grab for my 95 Outback but I don't have as much cash as I ought to for buying spare motors.

Have you mastered it enough that you could fly into an open window on a house or thru something? Pick something up and sit it down across a field?

You might have to destroy the inner trim panel to get it open but once you do you will see how there is a rod going from the lock tumbler toward the latch that you can slide and then pull on the latch rod to open it.

http://www.scantool.net/obdlink-sx.html I have the older version of this that I got on Amazon as a gift and I love it. When my Snap On Solus Pro won't talk to it-this thing WILL. I have to pay extra for European keys with Snap On and this does that for no more cash too. I am pretty close to just selling the Solus and buying a Panasonic Toughbook and using this sort of software along with buying the Subaru specific scanner interface "Select Monitor 3".

Looks like it would work to me. I am tempted to order a few other than I have about 50 spares in the parts bins here at the shop.

Don't forget the dome light lens and if its got Vinyl floor that might be cool in your Brat. I just bought 4 of the lenses from Subaru today-been trying to buy up things that I like from Subaru when I have a little extra money before they obselete the part number and toss the stuff.

Is your harness OBD2? If so you can plug a higher end scanner or the ELM SCAN tool in and tell the engine temp off the computer sensor. Check for leaks everywhere for sure on a Vanagon. The places I see them leaking the most are the rear heater and the bleeder screw on the top of the radiator. Otherwise just typical hose connections leaking.