ShawnW

Sit on your butt facing the tire. Place your feet on the opposite sides of the tire. Take one foot and draw it back and slam it into the tire then hit with the other foot. Trying the under the car thing would probably work but is quite dangerous.

Why not just eliminate it? One at a time solder the wires from each side to the opposite side.

I havent seen any need for the valve but to be sure I took my Brat out when I had it and had a friend watch from a safe distance. I drove down the road back toward him and slammed on the brakes as hard as I could and had him watch to see if one end locked while the other didnt or anything weird like that. He could see the brake lights come on and could watch both wheels on the left side of the car as well as could tell if the car shifted to one side weird or anything like that. It might be an issue with a 1/4 set of pads in front and a new set in the rear or some weird scenerio like that but I would think in the 5-7 years that this converison has been realizied and done that somebody would have had a problem. Could also be a problem on a car with unvented in the front and disc rear.

In Colorado they use 2 and 4 wheel drive dyno's and I bet they do in St Louis too. Id say you better find an intake and carb with all the emissions stuff on it and return it to stock each year or two as required. I think that might be another plus of the SPFI vs Weber conversions...the SPFI looks stock and retains all the emissions components.

Very true. Worst case scenerio...you blow up an EA81...which is pretty hard.

I dislike my mityvac too. Its only handy as a vac pump for diagnostic IMO. The ones for the Master cyl are really sweet but expensive. A friend, some aquarium airline tubing and a jar is actually more effective if you ask me. Fish stores sell silicone airline tubing which fits nicer.

Keep your chin up and quit knocking yourself down. Calling yourself dumb doesnt exactly inspire people to respond to your posts. If you aren't good at mechanic stuff yet an engine rebuild might not be the first task to take on. Most people start with oil changes, tune ups, tire changes, shocks, brakes, etc. This is because you probably dont have all the tools and equipment required to do the job properly. Obtain a service manual, preferably a real Factory one from Subaru. Sources like USMB Marketplace, and Ebay are good for that book. The task you are going to take on requires more than USMB can provide. We can help you when you dont understand a certain step in the book or something but asking for a step by step guide on rebuilding an engine is kindof rediculous. For starters, I would recommend you have an entire backup engine with carb, distributor, etc around. This way you can drop your attempt at a rebuild into the car, and if something isnt perfect you can go back to your backup and fix mistakes. You'd probably be best off to get an engine reseal kit and start from where you are at right now. Its going to get expensive and complicated from the point you are at forward. Getting everything clean, the crank turned, bearings for the rods and mains, piston rings grooves cleaned and installed, etc...almost as expensive as the car u just bought. A reseal kit would run like 200 bucks or so and have head gaskets, valve covers, etc.

Maybe its the meter? Ive remember for some things you are better off with a cheapie analog type than higher end fluke....

It sounds like an Autostick to me. Mid to late 60's bug IIRC.

Going gets tough, remember this.... At least the rubber is on the road.

Ever notice the naysayers are always driving some beast of a truck to act Macho and be all that but really aren't they just hiding in a giant truck from the Subaru that keeps showing them up?

96, 97, 98, PLUS--(pretty much Impreza only) 99 and 2000 EJ22's have single port exhaust. Ej25's all have dual port exhaust. The last 2.2 to have dual port is 95.

Well do another one for sure just gotta pick when.

Wouldnt it almost be easier to just put a fuel injected type gas tank in the car?

Im wondering if you might have gotten a generic sensor where you had to crimp wires...and that maybe you got the shielding for the signal wire touching the inside of the signal wire somewhere and it was grounding itself out. It almost has to be a problem between the plug for the o2 sensor and the sensor itself if you ask me but truly good advice to get a genuine Subaru part for this...maybe even better to put a USED genuine on than a generic.

No, the rest of the world never bothered with SAE... BTW you may want to avoid cheap impact sockets with Subaru wheels as they are too thick and will rub on some of the styles of the alloys.

Chain wrench and an old drive belt cut to exactly the circumfrence of the crank pulley works really well. The tricky part is getting the belt to stick to the pulley while messing with the chain wrench.

Strictly Automotive is 10th and Inca (Santa Fe). Really nice, latest and greatest alignment machine and they actually know how to use it. They are Subaru specialists and they will definately look over the car before/during for anything that is a problem.

Easiest option: Mid 90's Saturns (the really common sedans whatever they are called)... The front two bolt holes line up directly. The back two mount brackets dont line up but a 1" spacer and a couple bolts thru the floor and youre done. The seats are comfy, not too wide and only very slightly taller. They have more adjustments than a Stock Subaru seat as well. Downside to them is about 50% of the cars that I have found in the yards with these seats are bolted into the Saturn itself with an Internal Torx bolt and most people dont have torx bits. You can buy a cheapie set at Advance Auto parts and alot of other tool places for under $10. If I remember correctly it was a type T45 but it might be a few off of that. 2nd best option...likely your drivers side is shot and passenger is mint. If thats the case go to the yard, get a passenger seat that matches your drivers seat. Then go to a farm/fleet type store and get a hog ring plier and some hog rings, take apart the passenger seat from the yard and your driver seat and swap the foam and upholstery from the yard seat onto your drivers seat. 3rd best: Find an auto upholstery shop and have your seats redone. Its surprisingly not that expensive especially if you remove your seats and take them to the shop and prepay for the work. As a bonus you can update to todays upholstry appearance and durability. I got a set from the junkyard that somebody had this done to and they are the most comfy I have ever had in a Subaru INCLUDING late 90's legacies, outbacks, etc. Certainly not as good as the 05 and up though. The pair (came out of a Brat) cost me 31 dollars.

Im with GD on this one, check pad thickness in the front.

You have PM, I found my ea81T wagon cooler.

For a long while there were MT's out there that were dual clutch action types(hyd or cable compatible) ...meaning you could take the fork off the type of car that yours is (cable for example) and unbolt the pivot bolt in the bellhousing and move it to the spot on the bellhousing that you need to change to. Not all of em have this but alot do.

I think the Imprezas had the bolt on cat separate from the y-pipe earlier than the legacy did so I would ask to see it before buying.

I do it all the time too. They run absolutely fine that way I dont know what "it'll run really crappy." is based on.

So what did you do to solve the problem of the taller radiator?