MorganM

A snorkel upto the bottom of your windshield is fine. Snorkels above your head? You'll drown... Seen pics of Subarus deeper than the bottom of the window lines? They float away!

If you're going to pull the head to do a helicoil.... just put another head on thats not stripped

Its a purge canister. The fuel system purges vapor to it. EPA mandated years ago that car manufacturers stop venting the fuel system directly to the atmosphere. Purge can was used to abide by these laws. You will still pass emissions but its not EPA legal. Not a vital part of your fuel system.

UPS is more strict now (or maybe just around here?). I've called them on big things like this and it was way more than $86.00

Seems like an all inclusive kit. Any other questions about it?

http://www.mnsubaru.com/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=1697 - Local MN Subaru club member's write up. Might need login for the forum, not sure. http://www.hyundaiperformance.com/forums/topic.php?t=46353 - Original write up on Hyundai forum. Don't think you need a login to view becuase I dont have one and I could go right to it. * enjoy *

Aye, gots me a freight forwarder localy that I deal with. Sent several trannies and engines through him to USMB members. What I need is the weight of the item (including pallete and box around it) and ZIP code to where you are sending it. It's cheaper if you can deliver it to a loading dock at a business. Shipping to your doorstep is significatnly higher becuase they have to take it off the semi and onto a smaller delivery truck... another middle man. If you are seriouse PM me the info and I'll get you a quote. Thanks.

Here's some solutions: Buy a new thermoswitch for the radiator and wire it back up like it was stock. Wire the current fan/switch into your ignition circut so it automaticly shuts off if you or anyone else leaves it on accidently. Leave it how it is, don't forget to shut it off, and remind ppl who borrow your car to turn it on and off.

mmmmm... shiney alluminum blocks !_! Thanks for posting Jibs

I'm not a beliver it's effectiveness. Subaru already makes a forced induction system for your engine that is proven

Pencil in Archemitis too. I told him to come here and check in but he obviously didnt =P

Just emailed them requesting these details to satisfy curiosity.

Splendid idea with that brace there Dennis. I didnt do anything like that. Certainly helps keep stuff solid I'm sure. ========== The system will need to be purged. There is a small valve on a compresor line there right by the compressor. Looks just like the valve stem cap on your tires. Screw that off and use a screwdriver to test and see if there is anything left in your system. Mine was completly dead already and I just removed everything with out any problems. Some I've seen were still under high pressure and should be properly discharged. Also note there is other junk you can remove along with the AC Compressor. Take out that air restriction in front of your radiator called the condenser. Follow the tubes from the condenser over to this aluminum canister; that can go too. Remove all the lines from that canister upto the fire wall.

A local guy in the MN Subaru club just did a sweet write up on adding a water seperator to the PCV system. Catches all that wonderfull stuff instead of shoving it down your intake. It was originally posted on a Hyundai forum. Clever idea; basicly just uses a water seperator for air tools.

That would explain why there was no burnt clutch smell

Lots of ppl here run with out them. I've had one pulley bearing fail since then. I also take the time now to lubricate them often; especially in a MN winter with all the salt and sand! Are they interfering with anything in their current conditoin? As far as protective shields; they are better in their current shape than none at all If they arent harming your belts or rubbing on any pullies I'd just leave them untill you find a nice junkyard set.

I repacked my rear bearings with out any special tools or press when I upgraded to rear discs. Put thousands of miles on since then. Seeing how I didnt read any instructions on how to and didnt even use a torque wrench; I'd say they are pretty fool proof 99% of shops will tell you a press is required. Well that works out great for them seeing how they have the press and are gonna get paid to do it. :-p

I like the other shot that shows off her red hair better I voted!

That is the place I was thinking about. Bad enough anti-access groups want us out of EVERYTHING.... now ATV groups dont want to share... what a greedy little world we live in We get more trials shut down in MN due to ATVs than ORVs! Every injury at Gilbert OHV park has been ATV accidents (to include one death now). Yet we are the bad guys! ========== It's my understanding this would not be an offroad only event but a Subaru only event Should be plenty of unlifted Subarus since thats what its all about; Subarus and the ppl who drive them!

Pencil me in! I'd love to make a Midwest Meet. I'm down for camping and hoping God will bless us with good weather... you can always go get a room if it turns sour April 15th I'm at MN4WDA's anual event at Gilbert ORV park July 4th I'm back at Gilbert for a Charity offroad event. Aug expecting new child to be born. Thats why I said pencil Might have to be erased! Is it a legal spot though? Private or Public land? I thought Iowa had one public ORV area... can't seem to find anything about it on the web.

Brett (BYB555) tried to get his kits engineer certified but it was so much red tape.... more work than it was worth.

Phantom Grip is an LSD Detroit does not make a locker for our diffs.

Here is a direct link to your gallery: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=2955

Did it all day every day on a TH350 with manual valve body.... On an old Subaru 3AT? Wouldn't risk it unless I had a spare! :-p

I'd put on a real oil pressure guage first. See what its really putting out. Some corrosion and extra resistance at the sending unit or in the wire between sending unit and guage could cuase a difference in what your guage reads and what the pump is actually putting out for PSI. After than then you can realyl make some edcuated decisions on what needs to be done; if anything at all. Worst case it sounds like a reseal job. You can buy just the seal kit. Should also be able to get a new impeller shaft. Completely new oil pump assembly is rarely required.