MorganM

Buahahahaha

Check (again) for a large vacume leak. Make sure all hoses are free of cracks and are securely pluged in with clamps. Swap out the IAC with another one. Swap out the TPS with another one. Some places to start based off your symtoms descirbed.

Did you just say pennsoil, ford, and subaru all in the same post? I dunno if we can be friends any more...

Get some good pics this time!

And it's been done to a VW beetle. They burnt up the pistons tho cuz it was running WAY lean Little bugger couldnt compensate with fuel for all the extra air. Now about those electric superchargers. So you need '4 mil-spec batteries' to run the thing. That's a grand total of 5 full size batteries in your once light weight XT6. Batteries are NOT LIGHT WEIGHT. Now about about the drag on the alternator to keep those things charged; especially after 'boosting' and they are starting to drain. That's power robed right from the crank to the alternator. So here you are robbing power from the crank to make electricity to make your electric supercharger work. Now I ask why dont you just rob power from the crank DIRECLTY TO a super charger? Cut the middle man (electricity) and go directly the BOOST ANY way you cut it; you have to use power to make power (boost). Why not use your exhuast (already spent power) to create the boost (read: turbo charger); instead of robbing it directly from the crank?

LOL they sure do sound mean with open heads huh? You'll start to feel very sleepy tho from all the emissions coming into the cabin. :-p

An major exhuast leak right at the heads there will indeed kill your low end torque and will not improve your top end horse power on any engine. I run those spacers on my EA82 cuz I could only find an EA81 Y pipe. I had to get rid of all my custom setups cuz they all sucked. Just hammer those EGR lines flat and weld them shut. Also get new gaskets as those that are leaking right there are prolly shot now or on their way out. Don't need any gasket between spacer and heads. Good luck!

Yes. No. No.

Ebrakes are for suckers Who makes that rim adapter plate? Didn't want to go with custom hubs?

Only thing that looks bad to me is that worthless wing. Interior looks fine; nothing I would do but what's so bad about it? That looks like a 4EAT shifter to me; dunno if its FT4WD or just the 2WD 4spd but who cares? A tranny swap is pretty custom.

http://www.xt6.net

Duh It's stull funny

That's the key. It's not a vehcile just anyone is gonna buy and drive. Gotta find someone who wants a unique offroad vehicle.

It's definatly not a good thing to be leaking exhuast right at the heads there. Cuases all kinds of heat stress on surrounding areas. I melted a hole through one of my old timing belt covers this way and darn near melted a timing belt! That is some HOT HOT HOT stuff shooting out there; not good. You are also loosing a lot of power there; just blowing your torque right out the window. I would either get them spacers or re route the exhuast accordingly quickly.

Use a long braker bar and a big hammer. You can hit the breaker bar and get it plenty tight. Notice as you hit it that the bar moves further than the engine rolls (if it rolls at all) Best to do it on a compression stroke so there is more resistance. Might sound kinda silly but it works great; used it on main crank pulley and flywheel. Then again I also use the starter to break that bolt free... soo maybe I'm a little crazy?

No question about it; go for the rear discs! It's an easy swap and the benefits are well worth the effort. Once water and gunk does get up into a drum the brake fade is far worse than discs. They arent as 'sealed' as you would like to think once you have them submerged in muck.

too funny

Little way to make someone honor that. Just talk him down to a more reasonable price.

Any other electrical stuff acting funny? My fuel pump pulsed due to a bad alternator. There was a short inside the alternator that cuase it to go full field when turned on. Only thing holding it back was the voltage regulator so it was 'bouncing' or 'pulsing' off of the regulator. Watch your guages; especially volts guage. See if they pulse in time with the fuel pump.

$2500 sounds more reasonable IMHO. I dunno if you'd even sell if for that here however. Might try the private market in your area. Local papers and auto trader distributions.

faulty TPS? Doesnt rely fully on the TPS untill its at temp and the ECU switches modes right? How does the ER27 handel air flow for ideling? Is there an IAC of some sort? Or a choke mechanizim thats staying open?

You'll get back to the gnarly stuff with out bobing it. Although it's obviouse you have the skills and tools to do it. Also consider structural integrity. These are sheet metal unibodies with pretty small subframes. Hacking away major portions of the unibody will need to be replaced with reinforcment. More so than a vehicle that has a solid frame holding everything together securely. Would definatly be sweet once done; a lot of work though.

If youre gonna hit stuff like that you will be in your 4Runner though right? So will you really need to bob it? Maybe I'm mistaken but it seems like you want the Subaru for lighter wheeling and you have the 4Runner for the extreem crawling terrain?

That's what's great tho Brushbasher; cutting edge Subaru modifications!

Throw it in your 4 stroke lawn mower or in the garbage I wouldnt even trust Pep Boys oil brand new off the shelf