northguy

Ed, the local shop has about 100 sets in the warehouse.

Welcome to the board. You're smack dab in the heart of USMB country, with probably a higher per capita representation there than anywhere else in the U.S.

Nordman 1's are the same as Hak 1's

Lincoln Weld pack (80 amp mig welder) = $210 at Home depot. Will do most trailside repairs. I just bought the Mig 135 ($467 - Lowes). It'll do up to 5/16ths steel. I feel like a kid with a new toy.

-9 degrees? You call that cold? Come to Alaska where it's, uh it's ... 40 degrees today. Oops! i guess -9 might be cold. (But don't let the mild temperaturetruth out. We'd rather project the myth of severe cold and igloos and sleddogs... going to keep away the yuppies.) Sorry to hear about your seal - but it reminds me of a local joke. punchline is: No, that's mayonaise. Merry x-mas.

Nokian Hak 1's or Hak 10's are what you want.

What do you have for caburation? Hitachi or spfi? Mpfi?

I'll second that - Richie is good.

Do a search on IM inspections. Edrach has done a pretty comprehensive write up on this.

and about the studded they are alowed here but I heard they dont help much kind of a waste of money Not true! Ask any Alaskan and you'll see that there is a huge difference between studded and non-studded tires.

I carry my spare in the back of my Brat. You might think about a roof rack.

You could also buy a gallon can of Herculiner for about $80 and do your whole car. Seriously, a quart of Herculiner is about $20 (American) and it is about as durable as you can get. You brush it on, though.

Welcome to the board. We lok forward to your tips.

It's not a bad idea. It'll deaden noise (a bit) and reduce the potentila for rust. Just be sure to fix rusty areas first, or you'll be creating a good rust environment underneath the coating.

Working on it will certainly be easier than a full scale one.

I have a Colt/Smith and wesson/Baretta/Winchester/Remington/Savage/Marlin/Taurus security system for my Brat that never gives me headaches and is really easy to figure out.

That may be so, but if you buy a Brat, you still won't see that many of them around. There are like a dozen or so in Anchorage, and most of them are rust buckets.

Brad, you probably raninto a situation where a 50 yar old guy got this job in the last 3 - 5 years and is too embarassed to admit he doesn't know much about real subbies. Been looking at computers and microfiches too long. Too proud to admit he's wrong.

Is it Hellman's or that crappy Miracle Whip?

Consider this: if you were going to roll the speedo back, why only roll it 5 thousand? Why not 25 thousand?

Don't forget to ask when the timing belt was last changed. Good luck with it and welcome to the board.

If you can run studded tires, Nokian are very good. I'm running Cooper Weathermaster st/s's with studs on two of my subies this winter and a set of Nokians (with studs) on my wife's Legacy. If you can't get studs, Blizaks are good tires. That's what they run on Zambonis.

Being more attuned to old school stuff, I hadn't thought of putting a new gen (awd) 5 spd in when a d/r is an option. What was I thinking?

I'm guessing a combination of the two aforementioned leaks. With theblue smoke only happening for a short while, I'd say bad rings that are allowing oil seepage, and then after they heat up, they expand enough to fix the problem. Just a guess?

Wait, if that is on the turbo wagon, it very well may be a critical condition and you'd better sign over the titlew to me immediately. (Just condensation)