NoahDL88

I pulled mine out, weren't doing much good anyway. mines an offroader though.

Are the XT-6 inner axle cups the same?

I had USMB on my plate in Michigan, but now that i'm in the land of subies i don't have a custom plate ....... yet

give us the dirt then

WJM, for me this would be going into a N/A tranny, which is 23 spline, so clearly it won't work for everything now will it? unless the old style front stub shafts will go into the new style LSD unit.

unless you get real lucky and they have it sitting in a box out in the back, i think you're out of luck. and even if they did have it 20 year old paint probably isn't good anymore anyway. there should be places that make custom paint colors, i think its up around 15 bucks for a rattle can, pricey, but if you are looking for the original resto look, it may be worth it.

There is a rather lengthy thread on Nasioc, about the OBX front quaife style front LSD, which should fit, as you say. But what is the spline count, on the WRX and do you know if this is the EA style stub axle or is it a male C ring style of the newer ones?

Is the Leg diff installed with the ring and pinion, or do you bolt the EA diff to the EJ ring?

Waimaks, i'm sure the rear shoulder belt has more to do with the import country's crash test requirements, and less to do with the trim level. I keep forgetting about this, they would look really great in my 88 wagon, maybe get some mis-matched colors to confuse people. BTW, if anyone plans on swapping retractors from different cars, they are not side to side transferable, or coupe/XT/wagon/sedan transferable. I'm 100% they are not side to side as the inertia ball is set up different, but they may be transferable between models, but i'd caution, that if the degree offset is not exactly the same as the host car, then you won't have proper lockup in an accident.

they are notorious for blowing head gaskets, if they havn't been done, then you should be very careful about over heating it. this is only for the EJ25 motor, the EJ22 is rock solid. Once the headgaskets have been replaced by an updated part, you should have no problems. The timing belt should be replaced if you don't know when it was last, when they break in the EJ25, you will ruin valves, which gets real expensive real fast.

I guess you're right, but touting the 3 main EA-82 is even more ludicris, and with only 90 HP in top form i think you got 40 HP less room to talk. 4 cylinders are turning 9's, I'm sure theres a valid power testimonial in one of those rigs. There is nothing that a 3 main engine can do that a 5 main can't do better

5 mains saved my life, no really they did. The EJ swap makes it possible to run 28 inch swampers in 5th gear on the highway, up hill. 3 mains or 5, i'll go with the 5 even though its not germain to the conversation. V-8's are for sucks

The only fitment issues i could see is that the rim will hit the caliper, but if it doesn't rub on the caliper, you'll be good to go.

Torque steer occurs only on cars with unequal length half shafts.

sounds like your front cam seals. While you're in there have your timing belt replaced.

get the front two wheels off the ground, and see if one is harder to spin then the other, sounds like a classic case of a siezed caliper, brake pad thickness will show for sure.

definately gonna need the EJ ECU

what answer are you looking for? from memory, most of the yellow wires are either battery hot or ignition hot, and most of the black wires are grounds, the white green goes to the water temp, and the green white goes to the oil pressure light, the black dark blue goes to the tach. this isn't a project for the faint of heart. ShawnW or Caleb will cut and make your harness almost plug and play, but after it gets back to you it will still need a fair amount of work. Look for the right person in the Vendors forum. Can't help you with the digi dash, my swap was a DL wagon with the analog setup, as for the fuel pump, there is a fuel pump relay in the legacy, run the black red wire to the fuel pump and ground out the output and it will run just fine.

Ok, i'm gonna have to step in here and put it all on the line, you're F-n stupid thinking that the 3 main bearing thing has anything to do with anything traction related, really thats just rediculous, sheet ice will make any vechicle slide slip and crash, i don't care if it has 1 main or 20. The reason Subaru's don't torque steer is that they have equal length half shafts, thats the only reason, my 88 hopped a wicked axle with the EA and it still does it with the EJ. The reason Subaru didn't build an EA like they "should have" is because they realized that with more bearing surface they could spread the load over more journals and have more power going to the crank with reduced chances of breakage. I don't know where you got your hard on for 3 main bearings, but theres a reason Subaru doesn't do engines with only 3 anymore, if they were the better option, they'd still be doing it that way, welcome to the 21st centruy, as an automotive engineer, and an ASE certified mechanic, i can say without a doubt that the whole canceling shenanigan is a non issue, and your friends wife was stupid for driving too fast for the situation, AWD and ABS will only help control the car, but won't do anything if there is no traction on the road. BTW, its Forester, not forestor I see your 3 bearings, and raise you 2

So, as i'm sure some of you EJ swappers have figured out, the stock skidplate doesn't work so well with the lift and the EJ, not that it did with the lift anyway, but PK figured out a solution for that. Anyway, the reason it doesn't work is that the oil pan hangs down farther than the cross member, which is why my car is sporting a shiny new JDM motor, and not the one it had in it when i did the conversion. Has anybody tried raising the motor by shimming the motor mounts? i'm leaning towards that and also using an aluminum plate as the skid plate, but it also seems to interfere with the exhaust, which the stock one is cut to go inbetween. I'm also trying to figure out if there is something i can put inbetween the skidplate and the oil pan that is hard yet soft enough to not hurt the pan, like a hockey puck, or something like that. I need protection, its no fun worrying about my oil pan all the time.

no oil, rumbling, overheating, sounds like the motors toast, a coolant temp sensor ain't gonna fix that.

First off, i'd say stick with 10-30, as the farther the low and high numbers are apart, the less oil and more additives there are, which won't make and appreciable difference, but as the oil ages, the bigger spread oils will have more breakdown than the smaller spread. Second, 20-50 is way too thick, even in the summer, you'll have no oil on startup, which will cause increased wear, which is usually the cause for running the thicker oil, because a thicker oil is less likely to seep past rings and valve seals. Its a double edged sword. Third, Synthetics don't lubricate "too good" they clean better than dino oils, so the sludge buildup that was keeping the oil in your motor will some times get cleaned away by the new synthetic oil, which could make your engine leak in new and exciting places.

If you can fit them, probably around 5-8 MPG

Didn't you know, it saves like 3 oz and makes the car faster in the turns.

It has been assumed before, with disasterous results, thats why I always remind people of the difference.