NoahDL88

If your pedal got better after you added fluid, you obviously had some air in the lines, once you get the car running, you will find that every time you want to stop you won't have a pedal until you pump the brakes a couple bunch of times. the car is not safe to be driven, and you should get it taken to a repair facility if you can't bleed your brakes yourself.

Hey Subie gal, would it be possible to exchange our mismade purolators for the good JDM ones? i've got about 4 sitting in the garage, and i don't want to use them if there bad.

You don't "need" it, but it greatly improves emergency handling, and all aroud performance in turns. you can live without it, but it would be like living without candy, you wouldn't want to. If the "we" involves your parents, which i assume it does, then yes, you need it. Maybe you should be more careful in your 'rents car next time

http://www.rallylights.com/hella/200mm.asp These are probably the lights you're looking for.

Looks like an early fox body mustang, but other than that, it is teh hotness

You are definately gonna want one, as your car weighs more than 2k lbs, and they reccomend you have your cars weight plus an extra 35%. Also make sure that your cable can withstand the 4k lbs that would be put on it with the snatch block. and make sure that it can withstand it by a good safety margin, a cable that fails catostrophically has enough energy to cut you in half.

And a gun rack?

Seperate your thoughts, it makes them easier for us to read and then fix your problems. As far as your low compression, make sure you did the timing belts right. they need to be lined up with the 3 marks on the flywheel, the marks are not near TDC. the Drivers side needs to be in the UP position, while the passenger side needs to be in the DOWN position.

On a similar vein, and i hope Sidewayz won't mind the hijack, but what is the flowrate and pressure of a WRX pump, or a N/A 2.2 for that matter?

I got about 35 mpg with the 2.2 in the 88 DL fully loaded with an EA-81 and an EA-82 and 4 super swampers in the back. Oh Snap.

You may also want to check your insurance regs on your DRL's if they are standard with the car, they will give you a deduction, and by disabling them you could void your policy.

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I'd check the tone ring where the abs signal gets its signal generated from, make sure thats not hitting anything. the vibration is from warped rotors, either get new ones, or get the ones you have turned, if they are still in spec.

Wtly

Hey Brian, when you gonna convert yours? i got my soldering pen and wire cutters ready to go.

I will also echo the sentiment about the bad running Bosch plugs, stick with NGK, you won't be sorry.

Better flow will always be better.

I'm planning on doing that to my 96 impreza, but i have a 91 Legacy transmission for it. I could meet you half way to tuscon if you want the one i have, with matching 4.11 rear diff and the whole support part, incase thats different on the auto. PM me if your interested. I'm missing the pedal assembly and cable but other than that its complete. As far as making the computer a MT instead of an Auto, i believe that its just a 5 volt reference signal, and what ever it is now you just do the opposite, as apparantly it changes from year to year. There is a really good writeup about doing the swap, i think its Legacy777 that wrote it, i'd check it out. Good luck either way.

Timing belts aside, the EA-82 is a better engine all around, especially if it has SPFI, mine started every morning, no matter how cold, the carby on the other hand was hit and miss. You can use the 5 speed with the EA-81, you just have to use the EA-81 flywheel, EA-82 everything else. You'll be turning fewer RPM's with a 5 speed at 60 then with a 4 speed. The EA-82 is a torquey SOB, if you have to rev it to get power that sounds like you have other issues with the engine that need attention.

1. If you can afford an STi then by all means, i think he can afford a good sounding exhaust 2. This would be the forum for Subaru not mustangs, just so you know, the buzz bomb sound is more common/popular over here. Mateo, check out www.Nasioc.com and do a search for the unibomber's manifesto, it has a whole bunch of really good info on every aspect of the car. should get you pointed in the right direction as far as what you want. Hey, so you don't have to search, here it is.

The flat washer that goes to the outside of the cone washer has a slight curve to it, i forget which side the curve has to be to, but i'm pretty sure it needs to be curved in. That could also be your culprit.

www.kennedyeng.com Has a "cheat sheet" for the wiring, it was worth every penny of the 20 bucks i paid for it. I'd highly reccomend it to anyone of any skill level that is about to attempt this swap.

The axles will have to be custom, but i think that the guy from MWEAxles should be able to do it for you with little or no extra cost. You'll need the standard EA-81 axle and then the turbo EA-82 inner cup, because the splines are different on that transmission stub shaft. You'll also need a custom drive shaft, either get the legacy one shortened and weld in the carrier bearing, or go with a one piece. As far as mounting the tranny, custom mounts should be as easy as fabbing up a crossmember, so i hope you have a welder, or have a friend with one.

The EJ22 from the Legacy, 90-94 runs well without the VSS, vehicle speed sensor, which is necessary to get the later cars to run right. basically, its easier to get an OBD I to run than an OBD II.

The car has OBD II, all cars made in/for the US have had it since 96, some even had it in 95, but not many. Your engine is trying to tell you somting, even if the code goes away, it should store a trouble code, and yes, it can very easily affect your gas milage. if its not running rough i would suspect the O2 sensor, the front, or upstream one. Get yourself down to the local Autozone, and get cletus to run your codes, he'll do it free, then you can go to the local (any other auto store) and get your parts there.