DaveAP

'78 brat, 3"lift, weber, low roll bar, custom front bumper, hitch, steel 14" jackmans. No current pictures, one is floating around somewhere,shows brat with a '78 suzuki DR in the back. Dave.

one little thing to keep track of. the roll pin is installed and is drifted out using the beveled hole on the stub.. rotate the axle and you should see the difference.

Try switching to a higher octane. It cured my dieselling. '78 brat w/weber '84 auto brat

I run 205/14's on my 3" lifted '78 brat. It rubs a little on hard turns. I never did do any body work to mine.

A friend of mine, converted a gang box for a cabinet. Lots of room.

Well i decided to bypass it, tied the two heavier guages together. Made sure my son understood to be careful. So we're back on the road, and hoping to acquire another one soon. I appreciate all the help. thanks, dp '78 brat '84 brat

I can't recall if the jack needs to be up or down, but usually there is a rubber fill plug on the side. It prys off, fill it there.

thanks for the advice. I am a little concerned about bypassing it. My son just started driving, I think I'll wait and see if I can get one from Shawn, to stay on the safe side.

ok for the buzzing, what do you think set off the wiper motor? on bypassing the switch there are four wire, two light, two heavier. I'll try cutting those, like you said,if that doesn't work I'll try splicing them together. thanks, dp

Here's the story, see if you can pick out some sense to this: Seemed like the neutral switch was out. After I pulled the tranny cover and looked it over I forgot and left the key turned on. Looked at it after work tonight, and realized what I had done, the battery was worn down, so I set the charger on it, and turned on the ignition, A loud buzzing came from under the glove box, the wipers came on (the switch was off), what the hell (am I allowed to say hell? new board rules?) happened? I'd like to figure that out. Then see if I can figure out how to bypass the switch until I can find one for a reasonable price. Subaru wants 145.00 for one. I know this sounds rambling, sorry. Any ideas? This is typical of my mechanical abilities, cluster.....

my '84 brat does the same thing

for those days when you don't know if you're coming or going.

I'd like to chuck it, if it won't affect anything. We don't have emission testing up here. Skip, it is the ecs light, haven't seen the check engine light come on.. Is the o2 sensor on the exhaust somewhere. I've never messed with one before.

no takers?

'84 auto brat, stock carb. I was getting 12 mpg, ecs light was always on. Last week I took the top off the air cleaner, the ecs light quit coming on, and I got closer to 20+ mpg. Today I bought a new air filter, put the top back on the air cleaner, and I'm back to the ecs light being on,and assuming I'm back to poor milage. What should I be looking at in the smog system (?) to clean/ and or replace to improve my milage? Thanks for any help, dp.

It took Edison more one try, thanks for the effort.

thanks for the idea Miles, good one, but I am pulling the steering rack also. Got it back together today. Soo... I've got new inners,outers, control arm ball joints, and new used rack. My problem seemed to lean that ways, but after all said an done, it is still not right. I took it out of the driveway tonight, and I felt that tell tell slip feeling (stripped hub). Back to the drawing board. I have heard some say to lock the emergency brake, let out the clutch, and see if the axle turns. I don't feel too bad, you can't go wrong, having a new front end. Peace in Paradise. dp

I just pulled the rack out of my '78 brat. I was experiencing a major clunk when turning the steering wheel. I hope this is the fix. Anyone have anything I should be looking at to attend to when I reassemble? I am going to rough place the inner and outers (tierods) where the old ones were. I also need to keep attention to keeping the wheels straight, and the steering wheel centered. I think I will try putting it back together, then if I have any alignment problems take it to the pros for them to fine tune. '78 brat:3" lift, 14's, weber, k/n. '84 brat:auto took the day off from work, may hit 60 today!

If I pulled the caliper off to do a bearing job do you think I need to screw the piston in the put the brakes back to gether?

I am up in central Az. Have two brats, a 'lifted 78 and an auto '84. Both are sitting right now. I just finished a side job. Will be getting the '84 on the road first, so my teenager can get his license and get on the road. When I get the '78 up and moving I'll let you know, lots of wheelin around here.

I have a '78 brat with a 3" lift. Run 205 14's, with a weber, hydraulic lifter import engine..It has pretty good power, but it is challenged when I four wheel, esp. with wgt in the back. (a Great Dane and an Irish Wolfhound), close to 300 lbs! I didn't install the lift. They got more hgt. on the rear end by welding new lower shock mounts. I have had this brat for more that 4 years, have hauled over 1100 lbs. of cement, and done alot of 4 whln. Haven't broken anything chasis wise. We just got a digital camera, when I get better at using it. I will send pics. Dave.

If you feel a lag when accelerating, I'd also look at the splines in the rotor that they are not wasted .

try driving it around in a tight circle in a parking lot, will help locate noise. tap the bearings out with a drift. I have a brass drift that I use to take them out and install them. Don't forget the spacer that fits in between, or you'll get to practice again. When you install them make sure to tap around the bearing lightly to get the bearing to go in straight. If it doesn't, not the end of the world. just use the drift to tap out the portion that got too far ahead. Once you've gotten the bearing to seat you will hear a difference in the sound (metal to metal). Use your feminine side (smaller hammer, lighter touch), and you will be one with the universe.

I've never used it, but who ever lifted my '78 brat put a heavy steel plate under the bed with a welded bolt centered sticking down. I don't think it would be the best when doing extreme 4 whln, but for everyday dirt roads there would still be decent clearance. '78 brat, 3 in. lift, 14 in wheels,weber

Still have a wobble in the front end, replaced the front left ball joint. It was good for a few days then started up again. So I jacked it up and took a look. I can feel a distinct clunk when I grab the top and bottom of the tire and push and pull on it. All I can guess is wheel bearings. I haven't torque wrenched the castle nut, but I know it is tight. After I checked for clunks I drove it, and it didn't wobble. But I think if I drove it more than around the block it would have. Whadjathink?