DaveAP

If you pull the radiator and hook onto the engine lift point (near the carb.), using a cheery picker, the engine wgt is distributed so that it tips at the correct angle to clear the front.

There have been recent threads on this, but my '87 brat had similar problems a while ago. I took it to the elec. auto shop. They found that the brushes were bad on the blower motor. All speeds work now (had no speeds before). Good luck, dp

I wonder if you are just frozen up underneath there.

I have a weber on my 1600, no problems.

Morning from Prescott. Not much for jy around here. There is a yard in Clarkdale, with several ea81's, but I didn't see any gen 1. '78 brat (still down) '87 brat, daily driver. dave

If it is the 'neutral safety switch' it is located in the shifter consul. A visual exam will show if it is cracked. It can be bypassed until you find a new one. But be cautioned it will start in gear!

Could be the contacts in the steering wheel. I was getting minimal, then no sound, had it in the shop for other elec. probs, they replaced the contacts, and the horn sound level increased a bunch.dp

McBrat thanks for finding that picture. I have a dig. camera now, I'll get some better pictures. I've often wondered if the lift was 'factory', don't know. I may have been blowing smoke saying those wheels were Jackmans, I can't verify that, since I can't find any id on the wheels. I was told they were jackmans after I posted the picture.

All that work was on the brat when I bought it, except for the import motor. I got this brat for 250.00, and truly an Az. vehicle, no rust. The lift is alum blocks, and looked professionally done. I think the rear is clocked, but they welded a new shock mount bolt about an 1" higher than stock. I've had alot of wgt on it and it hasn't broken. The engine ,and weber was in the back, so I just went ahead and got an import. I got the engine from Raising sun with clutch and shipping it came to 500.00. This was a few yrs ago. But I just priced an ea-81 clutch from them, new for 140.00. The wheels look just like our standard Suby wheels,but I have heard they were an option way back when. There was a picture of my brat on the gallery at one time. I haven't seen it lately, it may be on someone elses collection. It was in the woods with a dr 370 in the back(suzuki). I am at a mile high, but don't know the jetting. It has always run strong, and has no problem with winter starts. I'm about ready to another side job so I can afford to have someone else look at it. I've just about replaced the whole front end. Later, Dave.

Be nice to see this one hit the repair manuel. dp

Checkin in with '78 brat, import hyd. motor, weber,k/n filter, 3" lift, 205 14's on orig. jackmans, low roll bar, low topper,modded front bumper,modded steering wheel (don't know what make). I too have been running full time cooling fan until I get off my duff. But have major clunk, and have not driven it for quite a while. Recent post has be looking at possible strut problem. Daily driver, '87 4 sp. dual range, brat, stock. '79 brat out in the back (on hold) Both older brats are Az. vehicles.

Did you have any other symtoms with this? I have had hell trying to figure out what is going on with my lifted '78 brat. When it shows a loud clunk is it hard for you to turn the steering wheel, then once it clunks it frees up and you can continue turning the wheel? I have noticed a shiny spot on the fender near the strut, maybe that is my problem. thanks, dp

I just posted about my blower problem a few days ago. Took it to the elec. rebuilder shop, turned out to be bad brushes in the motor. All four speeds were out, occaisionaly if I hit a bump hard it would go on, but after a while that quit also. '87 brat '78 brat

Blower quit putting out. Everyonce in a while it would come on, if I hit a bump hard. I looked around for loose connections, and bad grounds. Couldn't find it, so I took it to an auto elec. shop. Turned out to be bad brushes in the motor. Will be nice to have defrost.

In what way are the axels different. I have a problem with an axle on my '78 brat that is too short. I can't fit the flat washer on . The cone washer is on but in order to get a cotter pin through the hole I have to eliminate the flat one. I haven't driven it this way. (sitting as a project).

You do have a way with the written word. Wonder what happens, where the mind wanders, on the lone prarrie, moon lit night, wind chilled windshield, nose fozen shut, kick the tires, listen to the diesel purr, take a last swig of coffee, purchase the butt cheeks into the seat,and roll down the highway? Oh sorry I digress. I wondered why you pre-installed the cv's before the tranny was seated? Unless I misunderstood, seems like they would be one more restriction in the way.

my ,78 brat has a 3' lift (already installed when I bought it),with 205-14's. I had 1,000 lbs. of premix in it once. Tires didn't rub. I think the torsion bar was "clocked",but they welded a new shock mount to the rear drum (about an inch higher). I only rub in the front, but slightly. I didn't do any trimming or beating on the wheel well.

I was at the one in Clarkdale recently. They had 6-8 gen 2's there, didn't run prices though. Did notice a rear hitch on one (frame mounted). Make sure you bring something to lay on though, the stickers are viscious.

Guess I'm not being clear, that's what I am asking. How to remove the tumbler from the ignition. Does the trim just pull off the lock, and expose the mounting bolts?

I've been doing my homework (search) and have an additional question. I read about the headless bolts, I am assuming they are under the cover (trim),for the switch. Can I just grab the trim with channel locks to pull it off? My locksmith is looking up availablility for the lock, but has expressed a little dismay over dealing with those pesky headless bolts. On search I noticed someone said I may be able to 'drift' them out. I'm going to try. If they won't come out, I will pull the whole unit and put it on the drill press. Any comments are appreciated, thanks..dp '87 manuel with tilt-brat

Having problem with key getting stuck in switch. Can I just get a locksmith to replace the core, and grind some new keys, or do I have to replace the whole switch assembly? thanks, dp '78 brat '87brat

thanks, I'll have to have a look for the hole. I didn'nt notice anything like that. I just assumed it drained around the gasket and ran off via the gutter trim.

Just purchased a new brat. "87 manuel, t-tops,shell. Nice shape overall. But the t-tops leak. I haven't gotten into it yet, but it looks like the gasket for the tops is not glued in. Any advice is appreciated. By the way, I really am enjoying the hi-lo 4wd. All these years I have been making a run at hills with the '78brat. Now, just like the "old bull" I can walk up there "to see the ladys", not run! "78 brat, 3" lift, weber, 14's "87 brat, 4 sp manuel, stock

I got mine on ebay,for my '78 brat

There is a small tube that vents the gas system. Mine was dripping gas intermitally and collecting inside the body. It's been a while, but I pulled it out from the body (near the tailgate) and let it drip onto the ground.