Godsmulligan

I was wearing my goggles, but every time something like this happens it just reminds me why I wear them.

I saw some at the local grocery store yesterday by the gold bond foot powder. I was not shopping for foot powder at the time.

cool, Here's what it looks like lit up. The rheostat doesn't seem to be working. What you see is what you get. Hopefully it will work after I hook everything back up. Any tips on how to take a picture of the dash lights?

Is it an electric hum comming from your speakers? Does the sound increase and decrease with your rpm's? If so, you are sufforing from electro magnetic interferance. this can be caused by a power wire crossing over your speaker wires or antenna cable. Jiggle the stereo wires or fiddle with them, whatever your heart crys out for. Does the noise lessen or stop altogether? The sound maybe comming from your power source. You can solve the problem by re-running your wires or wiring in a filter for such an occasion, your local car stereo hut should carry them. Hope this helps.

That might be hard, since you're from pound town! Ha, to your Ha, sir.

* sorry, nevermind

I'm not trying to hijack the thread. I just see this as the place for LED Here is the back of a 84 I changed the back light to red and color coded the back accordingly. You can use whatever color you like. pink are the the ones used for back light, white indicators (turn, high beam, ext.) pink and black dual purpouse (battery, fuel, and idiot lights for both) red bulbs Pink 4 t-10 & 1 t-5 Pink & black 2 t-10 The red lights should change the yellow idiot light to green on the gas guage. The red idiot light on the battery wont be affected. white bulbs white 8 t-5 you will also need a red t-10 for the clock plus 2 t-5s for the face illumination. You can use red bulbs or cut a new filters. total 7 t-10 red 7 t-5 white 3 t-5 red (I cheated and painted 1 with red anodizer paint and changed the filters on the other 2. The original filter is yellow so it needs to be changed anyway. In the end I'm not even sure if I'll run them, they just tend to wash out the dash face, modern cars don't run them. You will probably need a couple more t-10s for the things like ashtray and glovebox, so get the 10 packs. * I tested the lights with a 9v battery and a 9v battery connector I had laying around. most pathways are marked somewhere down the line. GND= ground IGN= ignition/hot try switching positive and negative you may find a light coming on when it should be off. Okay, I think that's it.

Sometimes when you have a nut you just can't bust, you need to hire a professional to do it for you.

step 1. Post Pictures

here I was thinking you were talking about Sons of Anarchy.

the answer is... Putty knife and a wire wheel. Brake fluid did soften it up but didn't make a noticeable difference. It did clean the paint very well. It would work better if you were willing to leave it on overnight, but with the rain coming in tomorrow, I don't have that kind of time. Just a reminder, don't forget to wear goggles when using a wire wheel. I took a needle to the face today.

Keep your foot to the floor, grab a gear and piss off your girlfriend.

I will try both tomorrow and report my findings. I will even wear a lab coat while I do it, to make it official.

They don't leak, they mark their territory

lol, that was the nickname my insurance company gave me. new car looks good. I like the grill.

I gutted the inside of my car to the point that I don't know if I will ever be able to put it back together again. It looks like Humpty Dumpty in there. on the bright side I did find a rats nest ontop of the heater core, so it needed to be done.

I think you're right on it not being rtv. I have a tube of weatherstripping adhesive somewhere that this resembles quite a bit, now that I think about it. The problem is there isn't much left where it needs to be because of rust but large chunks around the edge, and I want to get rid of it before I fix the rust and paint over it.

I had an idea! not sure if I want to implement it until I have a spare clear plastic peice. I have my leds on their way, but I was thinking of blacking out the clear plastic with tint. The new brightness should shine through the tint when on but leave the guages blacked out when off. Not sure, but I think it will also give it an eerie depth, almost a retro digital look. Like the image is being projected on the dash. That is if you only use the back lighting and forgo the front dash illumination found on my 84.

Anyone have any good tips on getting rid of this stuff? I have my windshied out right now and I'm trying to remove that black RTV silicone they use as a sealant.

Found nuts in the heater vent, not allowing the vent to open. That would explain why the heater wouldn't get warm. Oh, and this... more cancer to contend with hope to start putting it back together next week. Got almost everything cleaned and painted, just waiting for a new heater core and led dash lights.

Nice, mine only had 2, 1/2 inch cracks. fixed those today with some plastic epoxy. I wouldn't recommend it the way I did it, but the dash is getting painted so it will only be noticeable to me.

thanks Bendecker finished stripping the inside today, think I'm gonna upgrade the dash lights while it's out http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/69467-ea82-dashboard-backlights-upgrade-to-hid-white-led%C2%B4s/ also going to replace the heater core and fan brushes while I've got the dash out. Better now than later

Get a preist!

Cooled down, went back out and decided to bust the window out. placed both feet on the windshield and pushed. It popped out, easy as pie. pissed me off but it made sense. Use the most surface area you can to push the window out. Still pissed

Cool, use the heck out of the out of the t-tops and rear slider in the mean time.