GeneralDisorder

The one thing you failed to realize though is that all these problems you have pointed out are a result of poor design and the government stepping in to mandate higher complexity. The drawbacks you give are not inherently problems with FI, they are problems with the fuel injection that YOU have worked on and have experience with. I will not argue that the modern FI systems are replete with obfuscated components and systems designed only to keep the bunny-huggers at bay rather than to actually make it run any better. One of the big differences with the SPFI is that it was a very early FI system and by virtue of the very nature of FI in general it was far more accurate and economical than any carb - thus the complexity of the modern systems was not needed for it to outshine it's rivals of the period. There is no OBD - no scanners required - it's computer has a self-diagnostic mode. There are no additional parts beyond what is absolutely needed (no special emissions systems were equipped), and the 4 components that could cause you a problem are all easily carried in the same size box that your spare carb would be carried in. It's a matter of what you like. Carbs have their place too. I have two rigs I drive regularly - an 83 hatch with a DGV, and a 91 SS with a turbo MPFI system (also early, and without the modern extraneous paraphenalia). The driveability of the hatch is not as good..... to say the least And if your Hitachi gets 15 MPG..... I would say there's a good chance you have other issues. Have you checked your compression? GD

Unlikely that you'll find any - no one in this community runs the DGAS - no one that has any carb tuning experience anyway. You'll have quite the fun time learning with it and messing with air correctors and emulsion tubes, I can tell you that. I've been closely involved with tuning a DGV on a 1.3L Samuri engine with a custom VF11 blow-through install. Emulsion tubes are like black magic - the art of tuning this stuff died with the engineer's that designed them. The good news is that there are many arcane volumes availible on the used book shelves that yeild a wealth of information if you bother to blow the dust off. As far as the FI - there's very little to go wrong with the SPFI setup. It's just a matter of if you like troubleshooting with a screwdriver and investigative mechanicing or with a DMM. Fortunately I am handy with both. There are reasons to prefer either but thankfully I don't go to 3rd world countries where the virtues of an all-mechanical system would be applicable due to the availible technology level. GD

Yeah - too bad I wasn't online for a while or I could have told you that. You need 4WD EA81 front axles and legacy DOJ's. I beleive there is a combination that does not require the rockford part though. IIRC it involves the early legacy turbo DOJ. GD

Donor car would be best. You will need everything aft of the engine as well as the exhaust and fuel tank. Swap the parts over and hit the road. There will be some clearance issues with the transmissions tunnel and the shifter hole in the floor-pan. You will have to either cut out a section and weld a patch in to enlarge it or bash it out with a big hammer. GD

He's a salesman - what do you want? They provide better low-end torque on a stock engine. Beyond that they really do nothing at all on the high end because no changes in the mechanicals have been realized with only a carb swap. Mostly they rely on the fact that the carb is both new, and that people who are using them are more likely to "enjoy" the progressive linkage's jumpy nature as opposed to a worn-out carb with a vacuum secondary that may or may not be working. Seat of the pants it feels more "sporty" and more responsive, and the low-end improves due to the larger barrel sizes. But that real performance numbers don't change in any appreciable way. SPFI is just as good and has better driveability characteristics. GD

All 4WD GL's were dual range unless it's an automatic. DL's were single range and STD's were single range. Sounds like a good deal. That's what I paid for mine with similar mileage. If the maintenance has been so-so you will probably end up rebuilding the engine soon with the mileage that high. The oil pump's need replacing about every 100k and that almost certainly hasn't been done. The 4 speed's lose the 3rd gear syncro at around that mileage as well. Likely you'll want to look for a 5 speed to install. Rear hatch pop-out window latches are almost always broken and are difficult to find and no longer availible through Subaru. If it has a good set clean the window seals so you get a water-tight seal and NEVER OPEN those latches again. Basically that's a good deal for the body so anything beyond that is a plus. A premium condition low-mileage hatch can easily fetch $1200 or more so $250 for a good body is a great deal. You'll likely have to do a bit of work to make it a reliable daily or off-roader, but that's the price you pay for 23 year old Subaru's. Count on axles and probably bearings, u-joints, engine work, and putting on a Weber or SPFI as the stock carbs are junk. GD

Also cute - comming from guy with 20 posts. GD

What he said ^ I'll also add that EA82's aren't Porsche's.... and never will be. It's a 90 HP economy car. Treat it as such and you'll be much better off (so will your wallet). GD

I have rebuilt half a dozen Hitachi's, but I don't have one handy right now to take dimensions off that bolt.... To what end do you need these dimensions? Sounds like it's a special part (being hollow) and should probably be replaced with a like component (junkyard or dealer). Also - what is the purpose behind rebuilding the Hitachi? The kit's availible out there contain largely inferior components and the carbs are WAY more trouble than they are worth with all the extra systems they employ for driveability and economy. A Weber or SPFI is really the best treatment for a severe case of hitachitis. GD

You don't need better/larger brakes, you need to learn to compression brake. SHIFT DOWN. drilled/slotted/etc rotors and expensive pads are ludicrous for a 90 HP Loyale. Wake up man. GD

Hopefully someone already swapped the air-struts for regulars. If they haven't then you'll have to do that. The air-stut systems were garbage and all of them failed in short order. Just as your's surely has or did. Thus the flashing light. The EA82T is not known for it's reliablility - they have issues with overheating, holding head gaskets, and cracking heads. If you keep up on the maintenance they aren't too bad for a seasoned Subaru enthusiast (know's the warning signs, pitfalls, preventative maintenance, and has maintained/modded them) - alas most people's introduction to the woe's of the EA82T is when something breaks - usually with bad results. There are comparitively few of them still on the road when you consider the numbers of EA82's still out there. Most are non-turbo for reasons that you will learn about if you keep it and stick around here. If you intend to keep it on the road you are best served by doing a major maintenance interval as soon as possible - timing belts/tensioners/idler, front seals, oil pump, water pump, accesory belts and ALL the cooling system hoses. Replacing the radiator with a two-row would be an excelent idea. The rule with the EA82T's - first time it overheats is the last time until you pull the heads. As far as modding them - just don't. It's a money pit that's better read about in prior threads on this board than experienced first hand. If you want more power get a non-turbo EJ22. If you want a turbo you can mod get a used EJ22T or a WRX front clip. It will cost less and make more power with no mods than the EA82T will ever make. GD

Yeah - I'm sure 30 amps would be more than sufficient. GD

Don't mess with the thermostat - obviously it's opening if the engine stays cool on a 20 minute drive. Your problem is the fan thermo-switch. Get a new one or hard wire the fan to 12v. GD

Turbo exhaust systems are an entirely different animal and you'll need a new engine cross-member before you go adding a turbo. GD

Just wire the existing thermoswitch to control your relay ground and run both fans from the new relay. No ECU hacking required and I don't beleive there are any ECU outputs that would be useful.... in fact I don't think there are really any ECU outputs other than diagnostics on the EA82's. GD

The lines can be shortened - it would be best if you got hold of a deutsch plug kit so you can do it right but it's not neccesary. The sheilded wire is easily obtained from any electrical supply - just specify the conducter size and number. It's only there to prevent RF interferance. GD

You have an automatic non-turbo - why would you bother? There's nothing to be gained here. GD

Legacy radiators are larger, but I don't know off-hand if one would fit. A lot of people spend a bit more on 2 row radiators for their EA82 turbo applications and I would assume that if the legacy radiator was a bolt-in this would be a more common upgrade. If you search around online you can find 2-row replacement's for a decent price. These radiators are small and it's often more to repair one that to just get a new one. GD

It does if the outboard splines are rusted together as often happens due to their being lower and more exposed to road spray. Removing the cup from the diff side and removing the stub axle and axle as a unit from the control arm facilitates bringing it to the bench where you can more easily use the hot wrench to get it loose. Under normal circumstances though you are correct. Just not for this individual. GD

Pressure test the cap first. GD

You can't check the axle nuts without removing the cotter pin - they should be torqued to 150 ft/lbs. The cone washer is directly under the nut & spring washer. GD

As most of us who have wheeling machines have added structural steel to the diff hanger, dismounting it is rather involved. I sugest you learn the corrent method which is to lower the control arm after unboling the coil-over shock mount. Pull the axle off the diff.... or the stub - doesn't really matter. Drive the stub through the bearing assembly with a copper or brass hammer or drift. Leaving the axle attached if you could only free the diff side is acceptable at this stage but it will have to be dissasembled on the bench for installation purposes - which may require a blue wrench if you have serious rust issues. Remove the ring nut, and drive out the bearings or bearing assembly - depending on which you find in there. Assembly is the reverse. GD

Lug nuts and/or axle nut's are loose. If it's the axle nuts then you likely need to replace the cone washers and possibly the hubs they ride in to get them to stay tight and not wear/loosen with time. You can't simply tighten the axle nut if the cone washer is worn as it has no mechanical locking abilities if the taper is trashed. It will spin, wear, and loosen till you replace it. And find anther shop or do it yourself next time. They are morons. GD

There's plenty of availible FI stuff here on the board. I can have dozens of sets on any given day if I want them here in the NW. You should try the wanted forum as I'm sure someone can help you out. GD

You are correct - it will only flow when the system is hooked up. There must be pressure differential to create the flow. If you break the system by removing a hose it will not be flowing. As to the pressure build-up, it doesn't take much at all. I caused a similar problem with an EA82 of mine when I installed a Weber and temporarily rubber-banded a red shop rag over the PCV hose as I didn't have a T readily availible. The drivers side cam seal popped out. The rag was not balled up - it was drawn tight across the hose opening and I could blow through it. But it was still too restrictive. Are you SURE you don't have any carbon build up inside the lines or connections? Just because you can blow through them doesn't mean their full inside diameter is clear. I've seen them plug up till only a 1/4" hole was left - this causes a ton of oil to be ingested down the intake and soak the air filter. GD