GeneralDisorder

No - the cam case o-rings are not the same as the cam seals. They most likely were not done from the sounds of it. You can try. It might take several rounds of pictures before you get what we need. Steam clean the whole shebang first if you can. Warped heads are almost unheard of and at most will result in an extra $75 charge to have them milled flat again. These engines are 100% aluminium so they rarely warp or crack heads on the non-turbo engines such as your's. Also oil-leakage with no evidence of coolant leakage, overheating, or compression problems is no reason to assume the head gaskets are going to cause any issues whatsoever beyond leaking some oil. Excelent advice GD

It's probably the cam case o-rings rather than the head gaskets. And if it is the head gaskets and it's only a few drops of oil then don't concern yourself with it - just leave it be and monitor your oil usage. If it's the cam case o-rings, then they should be replaced to keep proper oil pressure to the lifters and keep the cams properly lubed. They are special metal reinforced o-rings that should only be obtained from the dealer. They cost about $3 each, but the labor to install them involves takeing all the stuff apart they already dissasembled to replace the timing belt's and everything else. These SHOULD have been done at that time and if they were not it indicates your mechanic is not familair enough with the particulars of the EA82 engine. You should probably consider taking it to someone that really knows EA82's. Most mechanics aren't familair enough with the specifics of these engines to properly maintain them. They are different than almost all other automotive engine designs in several key areas. To propely pinpoint any leaks, the engine should be entirely steam cleaned and then run till the leaks can be propely identified. I didn't see that you have replaced the oil pan gasket - that is a major source of leaks on these engines. Use only the OEM dealer gasket and coat it fully in a thin layer of RTV to prevent it from failing again in the future. These are old cars - if you are uncomfortable with working on it yourself, or are unable to do so you should seriously consider getting a 90-94 1st generation Legacy with lower mileage. They are quite a bit more reliable and you'll have a much easier time finding people that know them. GD

Partially, yes. It was discovered by Kodak as part of a weapons research program durring WWII but it's use wasn't really understood at that time. One of it's early uses however was for treating battlefield wounds durring vietnam. It wasn't approved by the FDA till much later and it's use didn't become widespread in the medical industry till the 90's. It is excelent at stopping bleeding, and is used often for "sutureless" surgery. It bonds best when moisture is present which makes it ideal for skin. GD

I just took another crack at a Hitachi (EA81), and the results were pretty good. Some things to remember: Write down all the numbers from the jets and air bleeds and where they came from so you get them back in the right locations. Don't lose the accelerator pump check ball, and put the spring back with the loop that seats the check ball facing down. Pay close attention to the throttle base shaft bushings - if they are worn have them replaced by a machine shop. You will never get a proper idle or transision off the idle circuit if they have much wear. In your case inspect the bimetal choke spring carefully as the hook on the end of the spring is usually broken off on the EA82 models. Replace the vacuum hose for the secondary barrel vacuum pot with a new peice of silicone hose. As for soaking - I don't usually find that neccesary. I will put jets and other small parts with tiny holes in them in a shallow container of carb cleaner while I clean other parts. But really gasoline is a decent solvent already so there is rarely a need for removal of any deposits unless the carb hasn't run for many years and was left with old fuel in it. Regularly run carbs rarely have many deposits in them - mostly the malfunctions have to do with bad gaskets and o-rings, and worn throttle shaft bushings. It took me a good 7 hours to do a proper rebuild and clean everything. It runs good overall, but for the work and time I've put into learning all about the Hitachi's I could have done a Weber several times over. GD

The piston sizes ARE different in some USDM models. There are three different (for each side - 6 total part #'s) rear calipers used, according to my parts manual, across the turbo/xt line, and a fourth type used for XT6's. There are only two types of pads - regular, and XT6. There are three types because there was a change in 87. Up to 12/86 there is a single pair of part numbers for rear calipers. 1/87 and up have two different part numbers based on the vehicle. The piston size is *largely* a product of the type of drivetrain - 2WD's had a smaller piston than 4WD's. BUT that's not true of non-RX Turbo 4WD Sedan's - they had the smaller pistons as well (all non-RX sedan's [1/87 and up] use the same smaller caliper) The calipers DO interchange between 2WD's and 4WD's, so it's never easy to know what is on an older car without measureing the pistons. XT6 is a different animal according to my parts book. None of the number match up. This of course says little about the AUS market vehicles. You might have to ask some of your local soob nuts. GD

Those strips are glued in place. Sounds like you just aren't using the proper adhesive. Super glue.... isn't - pretty worthless for most things - great for skin as that's what it was designed for. Go to the auto parts store and find some epoxy of some sort. Something that stays flexible in low temps. RTV might do it, but probably not for long. If all else fails - get a tube of 3M Windsheild Urethane - that will do it for sure. You don't need any of those strips anyway - they are just there for appearance. The windsheild is glued in place and won't leak regardless of those strips. If you really want to replace it get a new one at the dealership. GD

Wait? Tripod bearings?? What kind of axle are you using? Subaru axles use a DOJ on the inside.. And what are you running for your drivetrain? Are you running a t-case with a 5 speed? How hard/how often are you trailing your rig? GD

Then you admit were irresponsible in not telling potential readers of your post that this will affect their camber and cause premature tire wear? Tire wear and money may not mean much to you, but what about your intended audience? You want all the glory for some pretty pictures without any of the dirty laundry associated with your "procedure". That's not a good impression to make with only 10 posts to your name. Next time tell the whole story or let someone else tell it. GD

"having" it rebuilt isn't practical - there's few that know these carbs. You could rebuild it yourself - the kit's are about $20 to $50 depending on where you get one. And you'll need the choke housing - either a good used one, or a new one from the dealer. Then there's the Weber 32/36 DGV route - there is a kit made for the EA82, or you can buy the carb and get the base adaptor plate seperate. These aren't technically street legal, so you may have to either be creative with your install to hide it, or deal with the emissions police. All depends on your area. There is also the SPFI conversion - by far it's the best running and driving of the three, but it's also a LOT more complex of an install. You can read my article here about EA81's. At the bottom is a link to Snowman's original write-up which was geared to EA82's. http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/EA81_SPFI.html GD

Camber isn't an issue off-road. Getting to/from the "off-road" is generally paved. Large/agressive tires are expensive. You'll not get more than about 10,000 miles out of a tire run with camber like that. If you like buying tires then go ahead - doesn't bother me any. Anyway - you do the math on what works for you. I've experienced this many times and I know what works and doesn't. I've cranked up/down more struts than I care to remember and it's not bad off-road. But you have to put them back down for pavement or you pay the piper. None of this is anything new - do some searches and you'll see. The folks such as myself that own lifted rigs have been doing this sort of thing for a while now. GD

I got an OEM one about two weeks ago for $91 from my local discount import shop (VW specialists). GD

Adjusting the front up like that will throw the camber way off and will wear the tires out very quickly. It's a poor option for added height unless you combine it with 1" lift blocks on the engine cross-member. GD

That has nothing to do with your transmission. You have not yet learned the ways of the EA engine. I could easily do 90-100 in every 4 speed I've owned. You have much to learn, and a lot of repair/tuning to do. GD

You did replace the oil pump I hope? 200k - they are more than well-done at that point. GD

The hook on the end of the bimetal choke spring is broken off. You'll find it resting in the bottom of the choke housing. Good luck finding a good one. The window is just the switches - clean the contacts inside the switches. Don't lose the tiny parts when you dissasemble them. GD

I meant purge solenoid, or EGR solenoid - I was really tired when I posted that. Purge and Evap are different terms for the same solenoid. GD

No - it handles evaporated fuel vapor from the tank and lines. GD

Yeah - the valve cover vent ports are probably plugged with carbon. Remove the covers and clean the ports out. Also - did you clean the black plastic "F" shaped connector that connects all the 5/8 hoses with the valve covers, PCV valve, and air box? GD

Definately check the oil pump - frankly if it hasn't been replaced I would just get a new one on general principle. The one from my Hatch looked pretty bad at 224k but the engine is strong and I just replaced the pan + gasket and it had no metal other than the usual amount of ultra-fine shiny flecks. The pump sees pre-filter oil from the pan and the sleeve bearings inside them are aluminium. They usually are REALLY ugly inside after 200k+. If I have my way they get replaced at 100k intervals. As far as oil grade is concerned - why are you running 40 weight? These engines really should be run with 30 weight under most circumstances. The tollerances are very close - they don't get much larger under normal conditions. Usually when the tollerances reach a point where a thicker grade is needed the bearings are about shot and going to a heavier oil isn't going to help. GD

Belt tension is a tricky business. As one of my co-workers like's to say - it's a "1/4 turn before it breaks" sort of thing. As long as it doesn't slip and it runs straight - it's tight enough. Any tighter is just putting uneccesary strain on the bearings - regardless of what a tension gauge tells you. Not a single tech that I work with uses those things - and some of the guys have been doing these for 30 years. Basically you are looking for it to be tight enough to not slip, run true without flopping on the slack side, and make it to the next service interval taking stretch into account. Generally a single adjustment once in the life of the belt is all that's required to accomidate stretch - they only stretch so much and then they will stop. If it makes you feel better by all means use one - but a good eyeball check with it running and an ear for slippage will do just as well. Don't go crazy and pull out your pry-bar and 6 foot cheater to tension your alternator either though - it's a feel and it's something you just have to learn IMO. GD

You don't need the special tools - make sure the slack is on the tensioner side using the crank bolt, give the tensioner a good shove and lock it down. The EA82 belts are crap and don't last much past 50k usually. Tensioned regularly or not - doesn't matter. As such there is no need to be picky about this point. Just make sure the slack it out and call it good. You can easily make a tool - get a peice of 1x1/8 flat bar stock and drill two holes for bolts that will slip into the holes in the cam sprockets. Wrap the other end in electrical tape for a handle. You don't need it though - it's overkill and won't help the belts last any longer. GD

The two on the lines are dampers - the one "on the throttle body" is the fuel pressure regulator. The other item is either the purge solenoid or the evap solenoid. The black plastic cap is a vent dust cap that prevents dust and debris from being sucked into the valve when it changes from open to closed (it vent's the vacuum to atmosphere through the filter cap). GD

Yep - and poor pulley contact will result in over-tightening to prevent slippage, which will cause bearing failure. GD

Now you're just being totally ignorant. First of all - of course they HAVE to say that. These guys are trained to some extent to look for things like EGR valves, and such - they don't know specifics of each model. They go off a basic understanding of emissions devices and principles. If it looks like a duck, and quacks like a duck sort of thing. Yes they will do an "inspection", and they will do a tail-pipe test. As long as it looks good, and performs good they aren't going to be testing solenoids for proper functioning - they wouldn't even know what those solenoids are for, and they won't care. Their knowledge is not that in-depth - they are looking for general proper functioning - they will want to see that there is a CEL lamp that comes on with igntion key-up and goes out when started... ect. Furthermore - if they do pull some kind of Subaru expert out of the woodwork and go through your installation with a fine tooth comb (trust me - that's not how this works), then you are screwed anyway - you have '92 fuel injection on an obviously pushrod engine - there's no way that anyone even remotely versed in EA Subaru's will miss that. And if they do they certainly aren't going to understand that nature of a few solenoids that look to be hooked up as normal. They are looking for big, obvious, red flags. He/she will have a checklist of stuff to look for to make sure it's "in place" (visual verification that it's ON THE CAR). They will check the CEL for functioning. Then the tail-pipe test will tell them all they need to know. As long as it passes, then they simply assume that the stuff they visually verified to be "in place" is working. Don't be scared of these emissions refs - they are people just like us. They don't know everything - chances are they don't know a lot outside of the nepetism that got them their government job in the first place. They aren't going to spend any more time than neccesary hassleing the guy with the mid-80's Subaru. They are expecting to see a transplant of a later model engine into an older car - they expect it to be cobbled together with chewing gum and masking tape - it's what they are used to seeing. Their only concern is their visual checklist, tail-pipe test, and making sure their asses are covered. It's that simple. If you still don't get it.... I can't break it down any more monosylabically than that - some people just can't be taught to think for themselves I guess. GD

O2 sensor's only came on feedback's. So unless the exhaust has been swapped out then you have one. And your mileage sucks, which is a good sign. The computer on the feedback EA82's also controls the fuel pump relay so if it's been removed they would have also had to rewire the ground to the pump relay as well. And no - we can't see the pictures. GD