GeneralDisorder

Pardon my frankness, but if you can't even diagnose a simple overheat, how in the world are you going to swap in an EJ22? Do you even know what that entails? Do you have an adaptor plate yet? Have you ever done wiring on that scale? This is not just a simple swap of engines.... GD

If my experience, and the experience of many others here is any sort of metric on this, there were MANY more feedback models made than just the ones shipped to CA. I've owned several personally as have many members throughout the US. Despite what Subaru may have called them, they were definately sold in more than just CA. I can go to my local yards and on a normal day 25% or more are feedback (out of those that are carbed). That's how I've been able to find used parts to try and resurrect several feedback systems to correct functioning. Alas it's a lost cause. At any rate he does have one as he just confirmed it. But just to make extra sure - DOES IT HAVE AN O2?? DCZ-328 means nothing - all EA82 Hitachi's are DCZ-328's. Just as all EA81 Hitachi's are DCP-306's. The last 3 numbers indicate the barrel sizes. The EA81 is a 26/30, and the EA82 is a 28/32. GD

EA81 gaskets are cork, and the valve covers are steel. There is no groove at all. It's completely unlike any later engine design being that they are not overhead cam. Think of them as a smaller, but thicker version of the oil pan gasket, but without the bolt holes. GD

Get a new set of cork valve cover gaskets. BUT you should coat both sides of the gasket in a thin layer of Ultra Grey RTV and let it dry before installing them. Replace the rubber bolt washers too. This will prevent the gaskets from soaking up oil and getting cooked. GD

It's weird - I started out with that stuff - Fat Tire, and (around here) McMennemins brews, but now I would just rather have a half rack of RR. It's just good. Although I do like some of the "chewy" beers still, I find that more of my enjoyment in drinking a few long necks is the company I'm with. GD

Sometimes the rotor won't actually spin freely. On some there is still a flat spot that holds it from spinning entirely 360 degrees (and not running at all) - on those it will just shift around like 10 or 15 degrees either way. Still results in the same symptoms, just never dies completely. I've seen them fall out on a number of occasions. Makes em run like poo. GD

That's a lot of work to go through - just replace it. They can be found used for nothing. It's just a thermistor (or RTD if you swing that way). GD

+1 GD

Yep It's really not that bad once you get started. Understanding how both the carbs, and the SPFI operates - the principles behind it - are what make it doable. I suppose that's why so few have done it - despite me and Snowman both attempting to make it more accesible to the community. Yeah - probably not a bad idea. At this point the duty solenoids are probably shot anyway. And tuning new ones would take an o-scope and the '81 FSM..... and probably a week of your life you would never get back. Not to mention the cost would be more than a Weber for the parts needed to make it all function. For what? 1 mpg?? That's all the CA feedback models got over the non-feedback versions. GD

The extra holes are for a different stud pattern (IE - different make/model). No one I know of makes a 10 lug passenger car GD

For starters - it's not possible anymore, and you are are polishing a turd so-to-speak. The car is worthless as cars go, and will never be worth anything to speak of. Sure it's a fine car, but that's ALL it is. Make it the best car it can be, but don't kid yourself about "keeping it stock". You are worrying about tiny, tiny details when you should just be happy it's still on the road with that scandal of a carb on it. You may love it, but that doesn't mean it was well designed or even designed for the right reasons. If you REALLY love it, then do the SPFI swap - I've done all the work for you: http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/EA81_SPFI.html And if you REALLY, REALLY love it, rip out the underpowered EA81 and put in an EJ22. Or just buy a Legacy - gaurantee you'll love it more No idea - whichever one shows continuity with ground. Make due by spending that $40 on a used non-feedback Hitachi then. Don't throw away money on O2 sensors. Or just run with the O2 disconnected - it really won't make that much difference. The feedback system at this point is so old it may not really function much at all anymore. Not that it did a whole lot to begin with other than make mechanics very angry GD

Resprayed outback with WRX swap.... Probably poorly done by the looks of the unilug rims. Who would go to all that trouble then put unilugs on a car? Stupid looking. GD

Tight is good enough. GD

No - no one makes them anymore. You will have to splice in a single wire sensor. The second wire on yours is the ground. All new units ground through the exhaust. Just eliminate the ground wire from your setup. What's your problem with splicing? Solder and heat shrink it if you want it to be professional. There's no reason to be scared of doing a little wiring. I'm a generator tech. and I do wireing all day long. Sometimes things change - you have to change the way wireing hooks up to stuff. Just the other day I replaced a main 3-phase breaker in a Generac and had to change the wires from hex-clamp to bolted lug.... no big deal. Siemens had superceded my part with a new model. Happens all the time. It's sad that you are still using the feedback carb though - get rid of it. Then you don't need to bother with the silly sensors. Put on a Weber, you will be much happier - trust me on this - I've been round and round this tree many times. GD

Nearly all half shafts of all makes and models are put together this way. Even the IFS on the Toyota trucks is done this way. The only difference is that the stub axles seperate from the Subaru axles using the roll-pin. The cir-clip is ubiquitous and rarely if ever do you see one come out on it's own. The suspension is built to not allow the axle to droop far enough to pull them free. On a lot of makes, the cir-clips don't center very well on their own and tend to bind when attempting to install them. I use a peice of rubber band and put it under the cir-clip to hold it out and even all the way around when inserting them. Sometimes inexperienced mechanics will smash the cir-clips down so they don't extend very far out of the groove in an effort to get them installed without binding - this could lead to them comming out too easily. GD

You almost certainly pulled it free from the guage cluster then. Reach up under the dash and reconnect it :-p Oh wait.... EA82..... maybe not. Might have to pull the cluster but I'm not sure. EA81's you can just reach under. GD

If the belt is broken, then the head gaskets are fine. The valves are partially open becaues of where the cam stopped. That's why the comp. check reads so low. If you want, I could assist you with the timing belts. Get me a case of Rolling Rock, and I'll make the job easy by tutoring you along. I have plenty of other mechanicing to do this next weekend anyway. Get the car, order the timing belt set from ebay for $60 and bring both here next weekend.... GD

83 and up automatics all have Hydro lifters.... that's how I knew . Hydro push rods are solid steel - solid lifter are aluminium with steel caps (with knurlings). So yes - you have hydro. The adjustment procedure involves letting them bleed down and then setting them a select number of turns past "zero point" where the rocker just comes in contact with the valve. GD

You don't need a special tool. Just a 12mm wrench, and a 6mm?. There is no clearance between the valve and rocker on hydro's. They are supposed to be in contact at all times. Follow the procedure. I would be taking those things apart and installing new head gaskets though. Those aren't going to hold. These are graphite gaskets and with that layer of sealant they will never seal to the metal. GD

Yeah...... that's NOT the right stuff. That's not even close in fact. You use that and I can almost gaurantee you a blown head gasket - if it even seals. GD

Yep - Subaru did it. It's called the EJ22. Fabulous engine to work on. Easiest timing belt job I've ever done. 140k original on mine and no leaks anywhere. Properly designed gaskets and mating surfaces are things of beauty. Whoever designed the EJ22 sure knew what they were doing. Just think of how massive that changeover was from the Loyale to the Legacy, and they got it PERFECT the first try. Whoever was in charge of the coversion to open-deck should take lessons That said, I think your o-ring idea has merit. It's never a bad idea to try to improve on this stuff. For example - I coat all my cork gaskets (oil pan, and EA81 valve covers) in a layer of RTV and let them setup. Basically I'm making a rubberized gasket that is impervious to oil. The plain cork will absorb oil and engine heat will cook it into a hard, oily, flat mess. GD

Could have bought an engine hoist for that much. Mine was $199 at Harbor Freight. Would have still saved a bundle. I don't ever pull transmissions if I can help it. I always pull the engines on Subaru's. I'll pull transmission on transverse cars, but that's it. I've *replaced* plenty of transmisisons on Subaru's, and I can tell you from experience that engines are ALWAYS faster. GD

Well - yes the 5's are better in a lot of ways.... But there is fabrication required to put the EA82 5 speed (4WD) into an EA81. The entire transmission crossmember is different as are the mounts. Cutting, and welding is needed, and some banging of the tunnel if you don't use Jerry's kit. The linkage needs some welding as well to make it totally stock looking. If you are talking about just a 2WD 5 speed then get the tranmission from the newest Loyale you can find, and you'll need the cross-member and radius rod plates from an EA81 2WD 5 speed as well as the flywheel and clutch, pedal set, speedo cable, and perhaps a few other small items. GD

Might be cheaper to just use Anaerobic sealant though. A lot of folks swear by it although I haven't had any trouble with Ultra Grey RTV once the groove is thoroughly clean and with proper bolt torque. GD

Loctite makes an o-ring fabrication kit - we have one at work. Lets you make o-rings of any size. http://equipment.loctite.com/productDetail.cfm?productID=40488&productLine=O%20ring%20fabrication&pl=32&categoryID=292&category=O%20ring%20Fabrication%20Kits&subcategoryId=534&subcategory=O%2Dring%20Fabrication%20Kits You can probably just buy the cord stock size you need and the "glue" and solvent to adhere the ends together without buying the whole kit. But even the whole kit is not too expensive at $85 GD