GeneralDisorder

Good luck finding a manual rack - would have to be from a STRIPPED DL. Even most DL's had power steering. But really you won't notice any difference as the power steering pump has almost no drag. You can gain more power by having a switch to turn off your alternator. Add to it that you have a turbo car with a turbo engine cross-member. Fitting the manual EA82 rack isn't a simple bolt in because the rack is smaller in diameter and uses different mounts and brackets. To get a manual rack you WILL have to pull the entire engine cross member from a donor as on manuals the rack only slides out through the end rather than dropping out the bottom as the skid plate mount is welded in place. Once you modify your turbo cross-member to accept the manual rack (I suspect welding might be involved here, so removal of you cross-member will be required) you will need to have the car aligned For the cost involved, and the labor needed to make it work it's just not worth it. The power steering system is an insignificant load on the engine - you won't even notice it's not there. I've run with the pump disconnected on my lifted wagon many times and there's no difference - even with the EA81's HUGE pump. Just makes it harder to steer. GD

I read all the threads on Legacycentral I could find, and lots more on Nasioc. Not a single report of any problems. And there's lots of modified turbo guys over there so if anyone was going to find it they would. Even lots of WRX owners are using it as they find that after only 20k or 30k they start to get grinds on fast shifting. 135k, and 14 years on my Legacy's MT - it was grinding when shifting fast from 1 to 2. Not bad, but I could feel it. And I couldn't get into 1st without being very careful while rolling. Maybe in the end it will shave a fews tens of thousands of miles off the life of the front diff, but really what's smooth shifting worth to you? And frankly is grinding the syncros to dust any better of a failure than having the front diff grenade at 300k? I know these things will last for 500k if you baby them but I don't own an AWD 5 speed so I can baby it! Screw that - I want it to shift awesome and feel amazing right up till it blows the ring & pinion right out the side of the case! When I'm done with the car I want it to be "all used up". Used tranny's aren't that expensive anyway. GD

None up here either - bought the stuff in Reno while visiting. But he's in New York so I thought I would mention it.... :-p GD

I'm out in West Linn (Oregon City) about 20 miles south of Portland. I have a 90/91 stock Panasonic 80 watt with the front AUX port that's currently in my 94 wagon. I'll let it go for $40 if you like. It's in good cosmetic shape although it does need some of the bulbs replaced that light up the buttons. Works great though and will drop right in. I also have the DIN pocket that replaces the CD player and gives you some storage space under the deck (has a flip-up door, and came on models without a CD player). With this setup you don't have to do any wireing (direct plug compatible), and you don't need a CD player as you can just plug in your MP3 player or portable CD player directly to the deck. Also gives you a storage pocket and looks stock so no one will want to steal it GD

When I say they are worth something, I only mean "more than they would cost at a yard". I got a complete set (retractors, and male-bits) from a fellow board member for a very reasonable price. Although this was a few years ago.... I won't say how much other than to note that it was under a "bill" if you know what I mean. They still reside comfortably in their cardboard packing box as I have not got my Brat to a state of "finish" where I deam it worthy of them. Same with the jump seats..... someday As far as the radiator - if it's an EA81 then it's an '82 or older by the size of the radiator cap.... and it looks too short to be an EA81 unit.... my guy feeling is that it's an EA71 radiator from the late 70's Gen 1 era. Is it a dual core? All EA81 radiators are dual core so if it's single then we know it's for a Gen 1 (I have no idea if Gen 1's were dual also). GD

They can go from annoying to REALLY bad in a very short time. I had one lock up and wear through the pressure plate diaphram.... not good. You might want to learn how to drive without a clutch now if you plan on not replacing it for a while. Subaru clutches are easy. I would just do the whole thing and not have to worry about it. GD

Pep-Boys had the Pennzoil, and the Castrol... Any Redline retailer can order the shockproof. Baxters Auto Parts here carries it, and there's a few other places the carry Redline and could get it if I asked. But yeah - this isn't a one-stop shopping experience trying to find this stuff unless you don't mind paying an assload in shipping It's WORTH IT though. Trust me. You won't beleive it's the same tranny. A guy at Legacy central actually had his father ask him if he swapped the tranny or had it rebuilt.... that's how different it feels. Feels like a new car every time I drive mine GD

It's entirely possible that I understand more than you think Jack. It's also entirely possible that I have rebuilt injectors and bench tested them. I was a diesel mechanic in the Army. There are mechanical injectors, and there are electro-mechanical injectors. Both have moving parts that wear, and both will develop leakage and spray pattern problems from said wear. GD

VERY, VERY carefully with very expensive drill bits. That's hardened tool steel my friend. Good luck. PS: I am soooo happy I'm not you right now. GD

No - go back and read your FSM's young-un! GD

Under full lock turn, whichever direction makes the noise the MOST indicates it's the opposite side's axle. That make sense? If you hear it turning right, then it's the left axle. If you hear it turning left, then it's the right axle. No - I'm serious. This works about 70% of the time. The outside tire in a turn is traveling faster. The other 30% it's usually BOTH axles anyway so it's a crapshoot as to which is worse. That has been my experience, and is was the conventional wisdom around this board for ages when more of the "old-timers" posted. For the price, and since the shipping is free, you should get the GCK's from Amazon. $100 for two axles and no shipping is the nuts man. GD

Yes - JB weld is the way to do it. Use a bit of regular home window screen to keep the JB from running too much - otherwise you'll have to do it like 3 times as hatchsub mentioned. And no, coolant flow through there is not neccesary. But you can't just cap the lines because coolant FLOWS through that area - it enters through a small hose, but leaves through the manifold itself. Down in that opening there's another bit of hard-line that leads into the manifolds coolant cross-over. GD

WD40 will dry it quicker than a hair dryer. GD

I usually do it without pulling the engine, but I own a hoist so I use that to take the weight off the engine and lift it forward and back again. On the older EA81's and such the engine's are so light that it's easy to just pull them forward. But later model engines are heavier and might not be as easy to manhandle. If you have a garage you might just buy a chain hoist from harbor frieght to take the brunt of the load.... Or two guys with a chain wrapped around a 4x4 bit of lumber works too - they lift and someone else pulls and jiggles. GD

That "package" is a total dealer rip-off scheme. Huge profit margin as it's all labor and they can have some kid ("lube-tech" ) that makes $12 an hour do all that stuff and charge you $100 an hour. GD

The oil will not reach it's proper viscosity, and may not get hot enough to evaporate the additional blow-by gasses from startup, and from running rich due to prolonged engine warm-up. All of which will lead to increased internal engine wear. Not to mention all the additional fuel you waste by not having your engine reach operating temp quickly. Really there's no problem running without a thermostat ONCE THE ENGINE IS WARM. It's the steep temperature hill that it has to climb prior to this state that is extremely harmful. The thermostat's main and most important function is to allow the engine to reach effecient operating temperature as rapidly as possible to eliminate the effects I outlined above. This is the reason that vehicles which are driven very short distances and never allowed the reach operating temp are considered to be running in an "extreme operating environment" (just like heavy dust/particulate, etc) by the manufacturer. It's also why cars with tons of "Freeway" miles last hundreds of thousands of miles longer. GD

Make sure the coil pack isn't wet, and the leads are secure. GD

EGR light is timer operated to go on every 60k. There's a couple blue and green connectors you swap under the dash to extinguish it. GD

This is very much like the debate over LSD's vs. Welded rear ends..... people who have LSD's think they are the greatest thing since sliced bread and will tell you..... till your EARS BLEED. Then they get a Welded diff and go: "OH! That's what traction is!" Same goes for 3AT's vs. 5 speeds. Till you have driven both, and driven off-road I highly doubt your experience is germain to this discussion. It seems like this comes up every once in a while, and it feels like someone is trying to defend their ignorance on how to drive a manual..... just buy one and LEARN already so I don't have to hear this foolishness! (the 4EAT is a different animal entirely - the 3AT has no computer, and is traction "dumb") GD

I've seen em - owned one for a while - out here in the land of soobs they aren't all that uncommon really. Just most aren't on the road because the 3AT took a crap. GD

Actually it's probably for an EA81 hatchback being that the vintage of that stuff is all EA81 and older. GD

The correct MAF adaptor is for a Nissan 200SX. I used one just because trying to fit the damn EA82 airbox in an EA81 bay is problematic. GD

The 3AT's are junk. They have a high failure rate in NORMAL use. What do you suppose extreme use will do to one? Hell - I had one fail just trying to drive it home in 4WD with a busted axle. No good - no good at all. GD

That's just the lure to get them to buy. It's like the first hit off a crack pipe. Get em hooked so they keep comming back - before they know it I own their soul. GD

The second set of seatbelt retractors are Brat jump seat belt retractors. Those are actually pretty valuable as seat belts go, and should definately go to someone that's going to use them in a Brat where they were intended. You can tell both by their shape, and because those are the only belts Subaru ever used where the retractor is the female end with the release button. They are comparitively rare in good condition because in many cases they were exposed to weather and were corroded beyond use. GD