GeneralDisorder

Just get a length of 5/8 heater core hose. You don't need the specific (expensive) hose from the dealer. If it's got really sharp bends then cut the bend you need from the old hose and use a few coupler's. There is no reason to spend money on an evap hose like that. Looking at the pics.... might not be 5/8".... but whatever - just get the correct size fuel line or heater core hose - either are good generic replacements for that kind of thing. GD

Not exactly. They share nothing in common. The Loyale is the EA series where the Legacy was the entirely new EJ series. Gen 1 legacy looks a lot like the old Camry's actually. GD

Should be - they are on the EA81's as they were required in Austrailia I beleive. GD

Replace the pump, they are known to warp in some cases and cause repeated failure of that gasket. GD

You wouldn't be crushed (I've towed a car with no front axles - the wheel is held on by the caliper and brakes), but you would never get the axle out as the car is being supported by the wheel which is attached to the rotor. The axle has downward pressure being applied to it through the knuckle and bearings, and upward pressure being applied through the wheel and rotor. The binding action between the two would never allow it to move. GD

I tend to dissagree - I've done a number of FWD transverse transmissions and clutches, and I've always just pulled the tranny - both auto and manual. Usually a lot less to disconnect and once you support the engine either from above or with a jack, and then pull the axles the tranny will just drop out. GD

And to the original poster: Under NO circumstances, should you use a GM single wire alt. The Subaru wireing harness is not set up for it, and it will run like poo. GD

That's a huge waste of money as the XT6 alt is only 90 amp, and is VERY expensive. A Nissan Maxima alt is the same casing (IE: bolt in), same power rating, and cheap. GD

I sometimes wear nitrile gloves, and sometimes my leather "mechanic" gloves. Depends on how nasty the job is. For fine work I often have to remove them anyway. GD

Personally I would pull the dash. But I hate doing things half-a$$ed. I've done the pull-dash method and it's not as hard as it looks. Takes about 4 to 6 hours total if you have the new core handy. Note that leaks are sometimes from the core, and sometimes from the heater control valve. The valve is a dealer only part ~$130 No one here will reccomend the leak-stop stuff. The way the cooling systems on subarus are set up it always causes more problems than it solves. Even if it did stop the leak it would clog the core completely and you would have no leak, but no heat either. Also make sure it's coolant and not a leaky windshield - EA81's are known for both. GD

You should check the jetting as it probably won't be correct. EA81/EA82 use different adaptors. Short filter on EA81's (or you can cut out part of the hood cross-bar to clear the larger filter), but the filter you have will work for an EA82. You'll want to remove that silly universal throttle cam and install the one from the Hitachi so the stock cable will work. There's several ways of doing the cable depending on EA81 or EA82 and if you want it installed backwards or not.... GD

The Subaru studs seem to work fine for me and everyone I know that's done it. They don't pull through the rim or anything if that's what you mean. Very solid and mine take quite a bit of puhishment. On my lifted wagon I drilled brand new Chevy white spoke wagon rims ($27 each - brand new) over to 4 lug. It's nice having the new powder coated rims - easy to wash the mud off. GD

Ouch - yeah I would buy an extra set of trailing arms and have them pre-loaded if I lived in a region like that..... actually I wouldn't drive anything I couldn't get parts for in the local yards, so probably wouldn't ever have that problem. If I lived in a "soobless" region it would likely be Toyota's for me. GD

That's the whole bearing from Autozone - no need for extra parts. If you buy the correct socket you won't deform the retainer ring nut, and they come off easily with an impact (usually). I've always used the old outer bearing to pound out the race on the three peice units. Older bearings are a one peice affair, and newer ones are a three peice unit..... either way it's not difficult and shouldn't cost all that much more than the price of the bearings and the right tools. GD

Yep - you got the idea. You use the 6 lug rim as a template. Knock out two studs on the hub/drum, and bolt it to the rim. Then mark the hub/drum through the other 4 holes in the rim. Simple. Center punch, drill, pound in 4 studs. Done. Some grinding on the backside where the stud seats might be needed too, but people have used either longer studs, or not bothered and it doesn't seem to matter a whole lot. Drilling holes in the wheels to make them 4 lug is fine too, but obviously doesn't work for alloys. I have done both, and both work well even for large tires - although if you get into the 30"+ tire range (transfer case lift, etc) then I would go with the 6 lug as there are cases where people have sheered off 4 lug rims with really huge tires. GD

Just drill your hubs for 6 lug Chevy. It's not like it's difficult - you need 8 studs from either the JY or the parts store, a center punch and a drill. 6x5.5" rims are everywhere - Toyota, Mazda, GM.... there's TONS of them. Stock 15" Toyota truck rims have the correct offset, as do many Mazda truck rims. GD

Timken's are $49.99 from Autozone. GD

It's not the accuracy of the sensors, it's the solder joints on the digi-dash circuit boards. Just like the sketchy EA82 clocks, the solder they used had a lot of flux and they appear to have not been heated enough to burn it off. The joints crack away from the board and the connection is crappy. Different voltages through the bad connections result in different readings as the amount of resistance from the poor connection changes the voltage drop across the circuit. GD

Install an 86+ lever if you don't like it. Save the 85 lever though - they are desireable. GD

Try adjusting the clutch and brake switches, and in your case you may need to properly hook up those switches or install them if the pedal assembly you used does not have them as you swapped from auto to manual. I would be very surprised if your problems are not related directly to your transmission swap being incomplete electrically (with regard to the CC). Frankly it might be easier to install an aftermarket CC kit and just use the existing dealer add-on stalk. At least that way you would have detailed wireing diagrams. GD

The Justy is transverse, and uses an inline 3 cylinder. Conceptually identical to the Suzuki Swift/Geo Metro, but shares no parts with either as it was designed and built by Fuji. Justy parts (including the transmission) will only fit other Justy's. GD

Flywheel bolt pattern is different, and the problem you run into is that there was never a 225mm flywheel made for the EA71..... so any combo's used would either have to redrill an EA81 flywheel to match, or use 200mm clutch parts. The "fat-case" (hydro lifter, side starter) EA71 I believe does have the same bolt pattern as the EA81 so if you happen to have one of those (rare) you should be able to use any EA81/EA82 flywheel and clutch combination. To use the EA82 pressure plate with an EA81 trans you need the Nissan truck release bearing (so I'm told). GD

1. Take off dust covers 2. Cut open cat 3. Puch out contents with screwdriver 4. Weld up opening. 5. Replace dust covers 6. Pocket remaining $400 It will still pass if it's tuned properly, and no one will be able to tell with the dust covers it place. GD

You have the same pump fuel we have - the octane rating is calculated differently - thus the differences in the numbers. Your 100 is our 94(ish). Here in the US we average the RON and MON numbers (R + M)/ 2. In AUS and Europe they only report the RON, which is always the higher of the two. There is, sadly, no difference in the performance of the two fuels. Read here for basic differences: http://www.torquecars.com/articles/fuel-octane-ratings.php GD

Belt should be the same as a non-AC, non-PS DL EA82. You didn't get those there? Anyway - should be the same belt used by the EA81's for the Alternator. GD