GeneralDisorder

I don't get it?? If you don't like it or it seems to be failing get another alternator - what's the big deal? GD

Different cam, pistons, heads, and entire intake/turbo ect. The block is the same as any other hydro lifter EA81 block. Mounting the turbo in it's stock config would require the turbo engine cross-member, all the wireing, the ECU, intake, turbo, and all the exhaust bits. Also have to convert the existing fuel system to high pressure for the fuel injection. Or you could do a carbed turbo and make it all custom - but that's never been done that I know of, and would require a lot of old-school turbo knowledge that few people have now. GD

Need a better picture, and the stats on the car - auto/manual, 2WD/4WD, engine, etc. There's not a whole lot of folks looking for EA81 coupe's - especially not the 2WD variety (which your's looks to be from the stance). It's all about finding someone that wants it - as EA81's go the desireability runs towards 4WD's, and mostly hatchbacks and Brat's. If I had to put a price on it out here on the west coast I would say probably no more than $800 to $1000 - they aren't nearly as difficult to find as it might seem. A lot more on the easy coast - probably nearing the $2000 mark to the right buyer. That's just my opinion though. I would say it's worth as much as any other reliable daily driver of similar vintage, but for comparison you can often find 90 to 94 Legacy's for around the same price or just a bit more - got my 94 wagon for $750 needing a water pump. So you really have to find someone that specifically wants a 2WD EA81 - that's a tough sell IMO. GD

Roller rocker EJ22's have solid adjusters starting in 1997. That was part of the power upgrade - solid lifters have less drag on the cam. They require adjustment every 100,000. They are obvious as they have an adjustment nut on top of each rocker. The picture you posted is a standard hydrualic lash adjuster (HLA) for the EJ22. Here's the endwrench with all the details: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/2.2Liter.pdf GD

Front main seal. GD

My understanding is they rarely fail - usually lasting the lifetime of the engine - 300k+. The procedure calls for looking for leaks around the shaft seal, and compressing them slowely - taking at least 3 minutes to fully compress the tensioner before pinning it with a small hex key or bit of strong wire. The part is fairly expensive ($100 give or take) and being they rarely fail and the 2.2 is non-interferance I see no reason not to reuse it assuming it checks out ok. GD

The VSS is inside the speedo, so replacement of the cluster with a used one is your best bet. GD

The oil pumps did most of them in long ago. I've heard the pumps are now difficult to find - possibly even out of stock at the dealers. The pumps only last about 100k or less. Low oil pressure quickly leads to rod bearing failure and off to the crusher they go. Too expensive (labor cost) to fix at that point. A friend of mine has one with 285k on it - third engine If you keep up with their appetite for oil pumps and rod bearings they will last just like any other subaru. The CVT is universally recognized as the death nail for the Justy - it's reputation puts that specific model of Justy (all the automatics) in the top 100 worst cars of all time. It was an upscaled version of a transmission designed for snowmobiles and it can't handle the weight of the car. Sometimes lasting only 40k miles, they were expensive ($4,000+), not dealer serviceable, and cranky when they worked. Some CVT's were converted to manual's by their owners, and a few are still on the road due to grim determination, or blind luck. GD

The ECU won't react to it being disconnected right away. O2 sensors are interesting creatures - they don't begin "reporting" till they reach a specific high temperature. The ECU will not throw a code until it is unable to get a reading from the O2 for some specified amount of time, or possibly a specified number of start cycles. Depends entirely on the software of the ECU itself. It will not jump to conclusions about anything immediately - especially the O2 - unless it is in D-Check mode where it's internal test routines are much more stringent. Most ECU's I've seen won't pull an O2 code till you have driven 5 miles down the freeway, and NO single-wire O2 ecu will report an O2 code till the engine has reached operating temp and it kicks over to closed-loop operation. Till the engine warms it operates in open-loop mode where there is no O2 signal availible and it uses pre-determined fuel maps - ignoreing the O2 output entirely. GD

HG's are easy, and your block isn't cracked. EA82 blocks don't crack (especially not the N/A ones). You can do the job yourself with basic hand tools - no need to pull the engine. Both heads are accesible in the bay. Ratcheting box wrenches make the job easier but aren't required. You will need at least a cheap torque wrench to do the head bolts. And this would be a good time to do the entire timing belt/tensioners/water pump/front seals as well if they aren't new. But all things considered, if you can't do the work yourself find a low mileage gen 1 legacy. Sounds like this one just needs to be retired as it will never be worth what you will spend for paint and all the repairs. When HG's blow - they usually result in coolant being burnt, and overheating. Exhaust gasses in the coolant are possible as well. The shop doesn't sound knowledgable enough about the EA82 to me. They should know these blocks don't crack. Subaru are different animals, and take special knowledge that many "import" shops just don't have. GD

If you already have the EDIS wheel fabbed up then why not give that a try? I understand what you mean about MS - it's open source and that's rough on people that can't code. But there's enough of us that can - we should be able to figure it out if you are willing to work with us enough. Perhaps locate the person that coded that section of MS (if you can) and ask them for assistance. There must be something slightly different about the EA82's Hitachi disty than theirs. I would bet that a run on the o-scope would tell you for sure and give a good idea of how to change the code to make it work with the stock CAS. GD

Accel switched their manufacturing to mexico, and since the quality has been terrible. Do a search there's several threads here about them with lots of folks having had them fail. The Hitachi coils can be had at the dealer, and probably from other sources such as rockauto.com. Here I get the locally at Discount Import Parts. http://www.discountimportparts.com/ GD

I have no idea what experience you have with software engineering, but I have a lot and I can tell you that working with the MS code would be a LOT easier than trying to dissasemble the stock ECU's code. You don't have the original code so you would have to sort through thousands of lines of assembly code and spend probably hundreds of hours decoding it to get anything meaningful out of it. No thanks - I would much rather have a community of developers to assist me and well documented code/utilities at my disposal. Adding support to the MS code base for the EA82 CAS both helps you understand MS better, and helps the MS community as well. GD

Wasn't it Garner that used a modified crank pulley to run an EDIS CAS? At any rate, you have the (well commented) code for MS, and you don't have the code for the stock ECU. Dissasembling the stock code would be as much/more work than just getting dirty with the MS code and writing your own routine to handle the EA82T's stock CAS. ....I might be persuaded to assist you with the MS code - I have some intrest in using MS on an SPFI EA81 in the future, which uses the same CAS. GD

What specifically is wrong with MS? GD

MegaSquit would be easier and more tunable. Likely cheaper as well. Editing the code of the stock ECU isn't something you will be able to do without extensive computer programming experience. What you dump off the rom is in pure assembly code and would have to be dissasembled and then properly understood before you go editing stuff. GD

Correct. GD

The Accel coils are garbage. Get an original Hitachi coil. GD

Basically you use them like big pry-bars to pry the axle through the hub using various combinations of the axle nut, cone washer (turned upside down) and big washers (look in the construction department of home depot or a lumber yard for "j-bolts" and their associated washers and nuts - used to tie structural lumber down to concrete foundations). GD

On a carb subaru (EA81 and EA82 anyway) the fuel pump is run off a little box on the drivers side kick panel (on LHD anyway) called the "Fuel Pump Control Unit", or FPCU. It runs the pump for a few seconds when the ignition switch is first turns on, then the control unit only runs the pump when it sees a tach signal. This prevents the pump from running after an accident. Being that his car is originally FI, the ECU did the job of the FPCU via a relay. I don't recall there being a relay controlled by the FPCU but I could be wrong on that. Feedback carb vehicles (computer controlled carb) work just like the FI vehicles. GD

No.

You could get it to fire up, but the ECU wouldn't be able to set the timing correctly. It would run off the default "limp mode" timing map. GD

The clamping force won't be correct - too strong for the clutch dampener springs, and can cause insuffient clearance between the disc and the flywheel/PP when released - overheating the PP and flywheel friction surfaces and causing excelerated wear. At any rate if you just have the flywheel turned to the EA81 spec you will be fine. Napa does it for pretty cheap usually but it depends on which napa as they all set their own pricing. You are talking about a difference of over 1/16" in depth - that's a lot when you are talking about clutch packs. Why not just use an EA81 flywheel? Pretty cheap from the yards.... and you won't have the wobbly, large EA82 bolt holes that way either. GD

Had a hessitation issue with my GF's old 87 coupe - turns out the timing belts were loose, and the cap/rotor were crappy. Check to make sure the screw didn't come out of the rotor, and that the contacts in the cap are decent. After doing cap/rotor and complete timing belt job her old coupe runs like new. GD

http://www.amazon.com/GCK-Industrial-SB8005-Front-Wheel/dp/B000FF5EJW/ref=sr_1_208/104-7672978-6081514?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1190940558&sr=1-208 GD