GeneralDisorder

Different brands probably - Nippon-Denso vs. Hitachi. But yes, they do the same job. GD

Yes they are interchangable. The bit you are refering to as a "vent" is not. It's a retard port for the feedback carb equipped EA82's. Leave it open (not capped) and just use the inner port as that one is the advance. GD

85 2WD GL's were MPFI non-turbo. In 86 the SPFI was introduced on the 2WD models. XT's (4's and 6's) were always MPFI. Also all Turbo's are MPFI of course. GD

All Loyales were SPFI. Only the 90 model year had Turbo as an option. But they are rare. RS coupe and some wagon's... I haven't seen a 90 turbo sedan but they probably made a few. Proper SPFI fuel pressure is 21 psi. Stock pump probably is rated at 45, but all the ones I've tested dead head put out an even 50. The Ford F-150 pump is your best bet. GD

When will people get it that the Justy has NO RELATION to the swift or sprint? The Justy is entirely, 100% fuji. It shares no parts with any other 3 cylinder vehicles, and there was NEVER a turbo Justy. They aren't even the same size engines. The sprint used a 1.0 liter, and was availible in Turbo. The swift used a 1.3 liter 4 cylinder and was NOT availble as a turbo. The Justy engine is 1.2 liters. The sprint and swift are the same suzuki design, and while they look similar to the Justy, they are completely different. Clutch's are easy to have made up. The Bonneville Justy was 120 HP at 9,200 rpm - again no turbo was used here either, but the engine was destroked to 1.0 Liter (997 cc) to fit in the class. GD

Illogical. There's procedures to verify the pump is within spec in the FSM. I don't know a single shop that replaces or reccomends replaceing EA82 oil pumps because it makes them feel good...... That's what feeler gauges are for..... GD

1. Anti-Afterburn Valve (AAV)..... chuck it. You can search under my name and the name of the part. I've described it's operation in detail before. But trust me - you don't need it. ... AAV EGR port - direct port to the manifold..... see #1. If you chuck #1, replace the EGR with one from an SPFI manifold. 2. Return line to the tank. Allows the pump to not run "dead head" against a closed float needle. 3. It's either the fuel return or the tank vent line. I believe it's the vent though. If it T's into the same line that comes off the top of the vapor seperator, then it's the vent. I always get them mixed up. 4. Top - float bowl vent solenoid: someone capped off it's vent port though - that's a no-no. Bottom - idle circuit cut solenoid. 5. Hill Holder valve (HH). GD

My wheel never yanks - power steering you see.... I have hit things VERY hard. When you hit stuff hard enough to bend the strut like a banana..... I scared my passenger. Also there's no way in hell my 1/4" wall blocks would "crumple". Likely they would go through the body like a bullet before that happened. I've seen 3/16" wall blocks get pretty wonky looking however. But by your own admission a bolt "dissapeared". Exactly as I claim - if you keep the bolts tight this never happens. It's just one of those things you have to do after every run - tighten the lift bolts. Plus it's much less likely when using the stock short bolts to anchor the blocks to the rails. GD

Might be harder than you think. And yes it's been done. On stock internals the Justy has shown to be good to over 11,000 rpm. It required modification of the valve springs and retainers plus a custom cam, and other goodies to get there. But the Subaru engineers were confident enough to take it to Bonneville, and it still ran as recently as 2002. GD

My local source that used to be about $60 has bumped the price up to $90 or $95 last time I checked. So that's about the going rate it seems. There's only one manufacturer (the OEM), so you are kind of stuck as far as price goes. If it's really worn, you might consider resealing another used one. They usually last quite a long time unlike the EA81 pumps. The original on my 86 sedan still puts out over 25 psi at hot idle (800 rpm) even at 231,000. I did reseal it when I did the head gaskets and cam tower o-rings. And I have an aftermarket mechanical guage in the car, so my readings are accurate. It will do well over 100 psi when reved cold. GD

No problem guys. It's not directly applicable to the EA82, but gives the idea behind what I did. I was just fed up with the 4 speed mounts - tried to order some and got a phone call that they were out of stock, etc etc. So I got under it and just layed there till something came to me . Works quite well actually...... probably sell that set I made as the 4 speed blew up, and now I have a 5 for it. GD

No - the problem is the lack of MLM gaskets, and the lack of studs to get decent torque on the heads. Several folks have detonated pistons, collapsed ring lands, and blown rods too. Copper gaskets have been done. Didn't work any better. The solution is to o-ring the block, have custom studs made to replace the bolts, and have massive amounts of computer management to hold the heat from cracking the weak coolant passages in exhaust port. But as yet no one wants to drop the coin on that stuff - especially when EJ's are so cheap. GD

It's because *nice* wagons came with factory sun-roofs. So it's easier, and cheaper to just find a wagon with a sun-roof. The t-tops are ok, but I find my sun roof on my wagon to be just as useful..... maybe not as cool looking, but as I also own a Brat with T's..... if I want to look cool with the T's up I'll drive that instead GD

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=2454&sort=1&cat=500&page=1 It's an XT6 actually. The builder is a good fabricator - there's no "frame" - not from a yota anyway. It's all attached to a custom sub-frame. GD

Yeah - I know this is an old thread, but this incident occured since it fell out of use..... If anyone has doubts about the EA81's - ask Jerry (Bratsrus1) for pics of his nephew?'s coupe. I beleive it was an 83 or 84 2 door coupe. I know he rolled it.... several times..... at a obviously good clip. I saw the car in person and can attest to it's complete destruction. There wasn't a straight panel on it, and the roof got flattened a bit. He told me the kid walked away with only one scratch on his nose. His mother was so impressed they bought him another soob as a replacement. Also - one good aspect of the EA81/EA82 design is the placement of the spare tire - it forces the engine down and under the passenger compartment in a crash. They probably aren't the safest cars ever made, but unless you drive like a total idiot you aren't likely to be in any great harm. At least the doors don't jam shut and the fuel tank rupture in a rear impact GD

I've never had that happen, and I have 4" blocks back there. Mine are not tied together, but are stronger at the body connection because I use open blocks and don't use bolts that go all the way through. I use the original bolts to hold the block to the body, and a seperate nut/bolt to hold the plate to the blocks. I've hit stuff VERY hard - hard enough to bend my front struts. Ask anyone that saw my rig after the last show . The key is to keep the bolts tight at all times. If they get even a little loose you'll rip the metal apart. GD

Still - depends on year. SPFI had neutral switches on the tranny - carb did not. The shape/type of the connectors also changed over the years.... GD

Yeah - the PK lift that many use is that way. The 3" kit has 2" blocks for the leading rod plates. Just make sure you use 1/4" wall channel. GD

Diff lock switch only locks the center diff. Front and rear are both open unless you have an LSD rear diff. GD

It will be written on the strut top itself. GD

Depends on the tranny. Some have neutral switches, and some don't. And there's other differences as well. Push button vs. D/R, etc... GD

I drove one like that but with a 4 speed brownie.... "Deep under", "Under", "Direct", and "Over" gears. Plus the two speed rear..... many a poor hapless log truck driver has broken an arm trying to reach *through* the steering wheel to shift both boxes . Nasty stuff. Incidentally, newer trucks still have the brownie's - but they are all air-shifted now. GD

It doesn't take much, and without removing the distributor it's unlikely you would be able to feel the play as the shaft is engaging the cam drive gear, and isn't free to flop about like it would if you removed it from the engine. 1/32" is more than enough to cause a lot of problems. GD

Here's my write up on it: http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/clutch.html GD

You don't have to do that - you can use the stock EA81 consoles. My Brat looks 100% stock inside. Just added a 2WD 5 speed EA81 shift knob to mark the extra gear. Using the EA82 consoles looks like poo. Not much point in me taking a picture - have a look at your 4 speed interior - that's what mine looks like. GD