GeneralDisorder

The two trannies are IDENTICAL. Clear enough? Only difference is that one doesn't have the low range, but that's all self-contained in the tranny itself. You don't have to worry about it. GD

Yeah - they do appear to be either modified IDF's or possibly asian copies of same. Perhaps one reason these didn't come stock is that there wasn't a good source of japanese carbs suitable for this type of setup. That, and the messy linkage and tuning with two carbs on seperate manifolds. GD

Only 82 GL's had the center lamp. DL's did not. GD

GCK's are brand new - so in theory are better than MWE's. I've got 4 of them, and never had any problems since I switched - you can ask anyone: I'm HARD on axles. Neither has anyone else that's run them that I know of. At any rate, I will not touch ANY remaned axle. MWE maybe - but GCK's are cheaper, and I'll take new over reman any day even if the claim is that all parts are new. GD

Yeah - a member that I offroad with has a set. Seems fine - he said they rub a little on bumps sometimes, but he hasn't beat anything like he should either. GD

Impossible. GD

But the 4EAT is electronic, and it's not worth the wireing dilemma putting it into a 3AT car. If the car already had the 4EAT then it might be alright, but the question then becomes a matter of the electronic controls being the same. It's quite possible they were on early legacies, but there's a point in production at which that's sure to change - at the least 96 when ODBII came into effect it changed.... possibly before that time as well. GD

They do look similar, but remember the EA81 picture clearly has them as downdrafts, not sidedrafts. Mikuni's are also used on many motorcycles - great little carbs avalible in some gigantic sizes. The Bonnevile Justy GSR used three 40mm mikuni's on a 997cc engine. GD

Not if you want power. 80/81/82 EA81's came with smaller intake valves. 2mm difference in valve size. You need 83+ heads. They are all the same beyond that, and performance heads like the RAM dual's are extremely expensive and require custom manifolds. GD

#1 have you CLEANED the IAC and hoses? They get caked up with carbon and won't allow the needed air to flow. #2 Does it change once it's warmed up? If so I would say you have a fualty CTS that's reading hot when it's cold. #3 you may have to adjust the IAC air screw to bring the idle up to normal, but don't touch it till you are sure you have to, or unless you have already been mucking with it, or somone else has. #4 NEVER, EVER, under any circumstances touch the throttle body stop screw. Just telling you so you know. It's not for adjusting, it's only there to keep the throttle plate from jamming in the bore when it's closed. It should have a white paint mark on it from the factory, and is NEVER to be touched. The FSM doesn't even have a procedure for setting it should you accidentally change it. GD

This is the only pic I've ever found - it's of a race spec EA81 advertisement. I don't beleive these ever came on anything stock - possibly even in Japan as all the dual carb EA81 RX engines I've seen were single port. That's how us US guys can bolt on the dual carb manifold. Clearly it's a monster, and used for rally racing. HP.... who knows but the JDM single port dual carbs were 108. I'm betting this is pushing quite a bit more than that. The difference is clearly seen as the standard production RX dual carb has the kidney shaped blue air filter box, just with two studs instead of 3, and covers dual Hitachi carbs. This engine has two carbs (god knows what, but clearly MONSTER downdrafts), and NO manifold. It uses two seperate air filters, and in the rally cars they had dust control snorkel attachements and such. Crazy stuff, but as I said I've never, EVER seen a picture of one of these in a production car. I'm guessing because they were special limited production items, and possibly not street legal. Hard to say. Here's your RX dual carb: As said tho - good luck ever finding a set. Better bet is to just buy a set from RAM. GD

You need a 23 spline axle. GD

They made dual-CARB heads, not dual port. They are still siamesed ports, but the valves are reversed like the EA82 for better flow. Dual port heads are essencially unicorns - rumored to exist, but no one has ever seen one. The exception is the RAM performance heads - they are dual port, but they are modified stock heads. GD

BBQ GD

Pah! High School physics is easy and fun. Try college physics w/calculus if you want to be confused. At least it was open book.... not that it helped much. GD

Sure - but they are more expensive, and the GCK's are awesome quality too. I could care less about the color. I would rather pay less for no fancy blue crap. It's just going to get dirty and chipped anyway. GD

Vacuum line should be fine. Small is ok as long as it's connected. PCV is all-metal on these - just pull it and soak it in carb cleaner overnight. That will clean it up good as new. No need to replace it. It's not your problem anyway though. GD

Yeah - just be really, really careful of the heating and sensor elements - without the housing they will be exposed and easily broken. GD

Yeah - they are cheaper too. Ammeter's are a lot less expensive to produce. Also an excelent idea to have, but more useful for those who have lots of aftermarket accesories. For those with largely stock electrics it's more useful to have a voltmeter, and better for john public to just see a gauge in the "green mean ok" range than an ammeter than bounces all over and actually requires some knowledge to read. Basically they resulted in way too many complaints, so voltmeters took over as a simple pass/fail for the charging systems. GD

Wow - someone that's actually seen it and isn't senile yet. Special edition is out - been meaning to pick it up myself from amazon. Good times. GD

With a rod knock.... $100 or less simply because no one that knows how to fix it will be willing to pay any more, and no one else in all the land is going to give you anything at all for a non-running 20 year old econo-soob. Sorry, but if you want $$ for a car, it has to at least take someone on a test drive. I could actually do the work, and wouldn't pay more than $100 - after I trailer it home, find a motor, swap it out, etc, etc I'm into it more than than a decent running justy would have cost in the first place. Besides that I've bought running soobs with much, much simpler problems for $100. GD

Why don't you do some searches? This has all been covered, beat down, and discussed to death. By me, and lots of other folks that have already built hi-po EA81's and actually know what they are talking about :-\ 50% of the info given here is wrong, and half of the remaining 50% is incomplete at best. GD

All EA81's use the same axle - and this thread is NOT about EA81's, so that part number is useless to her. GCK's for the EA82's are apparently out of stock, so go with the MWE's. Since they are both using all new quality components I wouldn't imagine there would be a lot of difference. The GCK's are generally cheaper, but as they aren't availible at the moment.... GD

Ok - the CV issue definately sounds like you are on the right track. Nothing you could have dropped into the clutch area would do anything remotely like that, and likely wouldn't do anything at all but fall to the bottom of the housing and get stuck in the muck down there. Don't worry about that The CV is either (as you imagine) the CV itself, or it's the axle nut come loose. Happens a LOT. I sugest doing the axle yourself so you KNOW it's tight. Replace the cone washer under the axle nut with a new one from the dealer. Cheap insurance. GCK axles are by far the best, but I hear that GCK has run out of EA82 axles in the US and are awaiting import of more from the manufacturing plant. MWE enterprises is a good second choice - many swear by both. Rebuilt - even dealer rebuilt, are junk. Definately get a timing light. Harbor Frieght has them cheap. Set your timing to 7 or 8 degrees. And you idle speed needs to be around 700 to 800 or the dieseling won't stop. The rough idle could be a vacuum leak. Test the pot on the distributor by putting a length of vac hose on it, and sucking on the end. The pot should move the lever inside the distributor, and it should not return till you stop sucking. If it does or doesn't move at all, then the rubber diapham is shot. Check for other vacuum leaks by spraying around with carb cleaner or brake cleaner. Anywhere you spray that smoothes out the idle is a potential leak. Check thoroughly. Also are you adjusting the idle mixture? It's a balancing act - if you change the idle speed, then you have to change the mixture too. If you lowered the idle speed and the deiseling stopped, then you need to adjust the mixture till it runs smooth again. A slight lean stumble is ok for idle, but it shouldn't be a very noticeable thing. GD

Yep - add a $65 autometer 3 guage cluster of temp, voltage, and oil pressure. Those three are the ones you really, really need to be accurate. GD