GeneralDisorder

Did you properly torque and replace the intake manifold gaskets? Serisouly tho - its sounds like you are getting compression into the cooling systems - did you clean the block surfaces carefully before installing the new H-gaskets? GD

By keeping the inverter transformers cooled, you can dramatically increase the duty cycle of the welder (the amount of time you can weld before the machine will automatically shut down to protect the electronics from overheat). GD

Compression isn't that great at the low speeds of the starter. But to answer your question, yes it can. I had .020 taken off the heads in my Brat. Runs like a champ. And they use the same starter for EA82 SPFI engines - they are 9.5:1 - stock EA81 is 8.5:1 (or is it 8.7? I can't remember anymore), and even milled I doubt you are more than 9:1 GD

Oh yeah - and while you are down there - check out my latest mod! http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=60992 GD

I didn't write that - McBrat did - he just used my picture (with my permission). I don't think the set screw method will wear out - it has positive contact with the shifting rod. The bolt method relies on the bolt being extremely tight, and trying to increase the friction between the shifter sleeve, and the transmission shift rod. Set screw will literally lock them together much like welding them. Welding would be the ultimate fix, but would be near impossible to undo if you ever wanted to take it apart again. The cross-section veiw that I drew only shows two set screws, but I would reccomend four or possibly six - two on each side, and either one on top and one on the bottom, or two on the bottom. This will give it 5 or 6 points for the set screw to "bite" into the metal of the shift rod and prevent it from moving even a little. The downfall to all the other methods is they increase the friction, but do not provide a way to keep the parts from moving and eventually wearing to the point where the friction needs to be increased yet again. All the parts are still smooth and slide against each other easily with the amount of force you can apply with a lever as long as the shifter is. Also - Mick failed to mention that when I did that bolt trick in the picture I didn't just use the stock size (12mm) bolt - I reamed it out to 3/8" and used a stainless steel grade 8 with lock washers and flat washers under that. Now mind you - the reason he didn't mention that, is that you HAVE to pull the transmisson to do this much extensive drilling - under the car it's near impossible.... maybe if you have a lift. Buying a new shifter is not the fix - in fact it's not even the shifter that is the problem - it's the shift rod inside the transmission - the hole for the roll pins (or bolts if you replace them) wears into an oval shape. This part requires partial dissasembly of the transmission to replace. GD

Take the manifold loose from the heads and it will be much easier. That's the EGR tube, and you *can* block it if you want - you'll need to take the fittings off and weld them and use them as plugs. Also - you will need to do a valve adjustment since you milled the heads. GD

LOL - that's a picture of MY transmission. I gave Mick permission to use it and he whited out the background. Overall, it works for a while, but then so did the original. Not a proper fix in my opinion. The method I detailed above should be a vast improvement. Here's the original (he modified it to show a few other mods): GD

It's R12, but you can use R134a - just replace the o-rings so it doesn't leak again, and buy a charge kit. GD

Oh yeah - I was thinking of the GFT coupe - we didn't get those. But still - nothing new out there - junk yards are your friend. Find a late model Brat with a nice dash. GD

Just takes some tweaking - mostly cam profiles and such. The aircraft guys run the EA81's at 8k all day long. GD

There was a huge debate about this - do a search - it will turn up. Short story - Accel changed their supplier to a different factory in Mexico, and after that all the Accel coils have sucked, and have an alarmingly high failure rate. There is a Napa part number that is the same as the old Accel before they switched - search will turn it up I'm sure. As for the coil - you should be able to use any coil - the while ignitor thing should just swap over. That said, you will get pretty much zilch for your effort, and are endagering the life of the ignitor. The ignitor is matched in resistance to the coil, and you can cause them to blow if you change one and not the other with a matched unit. Best thing to do is get an 82+ distributor, coil (OEM), and internally regulated alt and convert the thing. Better system, and simpler too. GD

GLF-5 is not something we got here in the states - you will have to check your local sources. Probably right hand drive, so nothing from the US will work. Any right hand drive Brat dash (made till 94 in some countries) should fit your 83. Other than that, there are no aftermarket sources for *new* interior components - your best bet is the dealer, but don't hold your breath for that, and be prepared to put a child or two up for adoption if they have any.... GD

The justy's do need the oil pumps replaced about every 100k, but once they start knocking, that usually signify's a rod knock - it's most likely already on the way out. Replace the pump if you like, but know the damage may already be done. GD

It really all depends - I pulled 220 on every cylinder from my EA81 hydro lifter block. Fairly low mileage from an automatic. No rebuild or anything. My EA81 in my Brat with 175k on it pulls 150 in every cylinder. Both run equally well. As was said - it's not the numbers, it's how even they are. Anything lower than 90 should be investigated - possibly a partially blown HG, or something. Subaru engines do not really get burnt valves, and do not wear the cylinder bores - and it would take a TON of miles to wear out a set of rings (well over 300k). GD

Doh! Exactly as I suspected - someone used the wrong part number. Silly previous owners anyway.... GD

Depends on your gaskets - retorque is usually after the first 500 miles I think. Fel-Pro's do not require a retorque (thus I've never done it), and many that use the OEM gaskets just go an extra 5 lbs on the initial torque to cover it. Should be about 50 lbs final torque (55 if you are not going to retorque), but you need to do it in increments: 10 lbs, 25 lbs, and then 50 lbs. For the sequence.... you'll have to find a picture there's too many and I don't remember their numbers/positions. Oh, and a couple sockets under the bolts for the rocker arm will allow you to torque them with the rest of the bolts and then install the rocker assembly later. That's what the book recommends - it's OK to take those two loose after the torque procedure is done. GD

POST IS 3 YEARS OLD. Jeez people. Caleb - help! GD

Summit racing sells small aluminium radiators.... GD

Originally all the bits came as a "kit" that the dealership would install. I'm sure it was not cheap. The real problem is not really getting the parts, it's getting the *right* parts and figureing out the wireing. Most of the AC systems you will find were factory installed, not dealer - as such they are not quite the same. It's cleaerer if I say it this way - a factory installed system may not directly plug into the harness of a car "equipped for installation" at the dealership. Frankly it would be easiest to find a donor car that's trashed and pull the AC from it. From a junk yard expect to pay probably around $100 depending on the yard for all the parts, and expect to make a couple trips back for stuff you forgot to grab. Also expect a wireing nightmare and get some factory service manuals (ebay is a good shooting range for them), and get real familair with wireing diagrams. I have no idea what that car would be worth where you are.... specs? Is it 4WD? Auto? Color? Condition? 2WD or 4WD makes a HUGE difference in value - sort of like a truck. GD

Plumbed for air? What do you mean? It has everything but the compressor? Generally speaking, all the roos had a "equipped for installation of optional AC" badge in the cabin, but you still need all the wireing, relays, extra radiator fan, compressor and bracket, evaporator, condensor, drier, and all the plumbing bits.... then you must remove the dash to install the condensor.... GD

Look for anything "not so factory" looking - aftermarket stereo and alarm wireing have caused me no end of problems with battery drain and random electrical issues. In my experience, previous owners are worse than years or mileage. GD

Back..... To the Future! GD

Thanks - it was born of neccesity - sender really makes me nervous hanging down there in the mud :-p GD

This was my solution - I added a right angle fitting to it later as the plastic line likes to kink otherwise, but that's just a 1/8" NPT fitting from Home Cheapo. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=55186 I also did my lifted wagon, and it's done with braided SS line to the sending unit as it's an off-road toy - same principle tho - metric adaptor to 1/8" NPT to whatever you like - mechanical like my EA82 sedan, or relocated sender (Autometer in the case of my wagon): GD

I whiped up this diagram a while back for my idea on how to fix the shifter slop in a way that will never, ever come loose again. I've tried bolting, cutting a slot in the shifter and bolting, drilling and bolting with a larger bolt, etc, etc. This will be my next attempt if I don't just go to a 5 speed in all my rigs GD