GeneralDisorder

I agree - I have a high topper for a Gen 1 that rises right off the back of the cab. In fact all the high toppers I have seen are that way. GD

It's not reccomended because the FSM says to use a press. Anytime they say that, the third party manual printers just tell you to leave it alone. Fact of the matter is that no press is required.... it's just a tight friction fit into the hub. Same goes for the front and rear wheel bearings. GD

Just a side note, but if anyone in WA is having trouble passing, they can go through the OR DEQ as many times as they want for free! It's no charge to fail, an there's no limit to the number of times you can fail. The test itself is the same, so if you pass here, you should pass up there. Also, the DMV down here says that a good pass slip from WA is good for 30 days just like a good slip from OR is.... that may or may not be true up there, but if you do pass it's only $21 for the pass slip - and if you don't want that, just drive out - you only pay if you want the paper! GD

EA82 axles are longer by a good couple inches. They are also pretty wimpy looking. I have compared them side by side at the JY.... didn't look into joint swapability, but I've heard on here before that it doesn't work. The joints look to be smaller in diameter, so probably a problem with the spline counts on the shaft itself. GD

As has been stated in here several times, the EGR doesn't play a huge part in emmissions on the EA81. It's primary job is to reduce combustion temps. Reducing combustion temps helps a whole host of things, only one of which is reduction of NOX emissions (and even then, only by around 15-20%). GD

Anything that would eat silicone, would destroy the block and heads in the process..... I'm afraid he'll have to tear it apart to clean that stuff out. The HG's themselves might be salvageable..... but don't count on it. GD

Weight. GD

I found three of those at the JY once, but I don't really want em (or to try and find another), and they had curb rash anyway. GD

Well - it does apply - sort of. It applies to the engine itself, yes.... but not the distributor per-se. The distributor that was designed for these engines was (to your mind set) badly designed. Now that being said, IF you wanted to run full manifold vacuum, there is nothing wrong with that in principle, but the distributor would have to be redesigned to accomidate that "mod". Other makes / models may not need a redesign to take advantage of your "mod", but the Subaru design does. Simple fact of it is that running full manifold vacuum will flop the vacuum advance curve over. It will make the advance curve almost a mirror image of what it's supposed to be. The short answer is that while this may be a worthwhile mod, you need to do a bit more work to get there than a VW, or whatever else you might own. No one is argueing that this isn't a good mod, I'm arguing that this isn't a good mod *using the stock distributor*. Also - I have some more technical data - taken from a friends 83 FSM. The mechanical advance peaks at only 1700 RPM's or so, not the 3k or 4k that a lot of people seem to think it does. It actually comes in pretty quickly. One interesting thing I noted was that the 83 vacuum module was good for about 12 degrees of advance as compared to the 10 degrees from the 80/81 FSM....interesting. And you are (in my opinion) 100% correct on the Weber thing. I don't believe that a stock motor benifits much at all from a Weber. However, that beign said, there are still benifits to having one. It's simpler to work on, and the progressive linkage gives it a more "sporty" feel. It also increases the low-end torque by allowing you to instantly open both barels by fully depressing the pedal. On the Hitachi, the secondary is vacuum operated, and doesn't kick out the low-end torque because of that. As for HP, and top end, I think a couple horses are gained from a Weber, and a better flowing exhaust, but it's mostly the exhaust that's doing it. I'll be building an engine here shortly with a bigger cam, decked and ported heads, HC pistons, custom exhaust, and (you guessed it!) a recurved disty. that will be more capable of utilzing the Weber. GD

The EA series has two styles - the 4 speed single range 4WD's, and some older 2WD's had the old style bell-housing with the starter on the top, and those will not bolt to EA81's or EA82's. Not that you would want any of those tranny's anyway.... All EA81, EA82, and ER27 tranny's have the same mounting, but clutch and flywheel parts must be interchanged carefully. GD

Absolutely correct Ed! That's why I have these guys rebuild mine with brand new rubber: www.philbingroup.com Cost is about $35 for any vacuum advance module.... And the figure for the mechanical advance is 15 degrees maximum. So total advance is limited to 23 degrees with only mechanical and initial advance settings. GD

I just had a chat with Mudrat about this, and apparently, you need to adjust the choke. if it's already been rebuilt, there's a good chance you don't have rivets, you have screws all the way around the choke housing. The bi-metal spring in the choke housing gets old, and out of adjustment. Apparently with the engine dead cold, you should set the choke so it is just barely closed after depressing the throttle fully one time. This should give you the high idle on a cold start..... worth a try at least eh? GD

It's not exactly the choke - it's another mechanism that is linked to it. There is a cold idle-up that's supposed to run the idle up to around 1500 RPM's (near as I can tell) till the engine warms up. In order to get into the choke housing, you have to drill out two rivets, and remove one screw. Inside I imagine you will find all the electric choke parts, and the idle up bits too. There is a rod that extends from the housing, down to the primary barel throttle shaft - you will see what I'm talking about if you take a look at the carb with the air filter housing removed. What I can't figure out is why this mecanism *sometimes* works and sometimes does not. If I remove the top of the carb for other adjustments, sometimes it will just start working, and will continue to do so till I try to adjust the carb again, and then it stops. Or like right now - it will kick in a little bit if I hold the RPM's up for about 10 seconds when cold. Doesn't feel like it's fully engaging tho. I'll be dissasembling mine to inspect this mechanism soon. I'll try to remember to post what I find..... GD

Tough lesson. Glad no one was hurt tho. Too bad about the justy, but it's only a peice of metal - don't be too hard on her. GD

That's pretty typical for Hitachi choke's. Seems that every time I take the carb apart, and put it back together again, it acts a little different. I haven't opened up a choke yet to see what the deal is, but likely your mechanic won't be able to do anything for you. Tell you to get the carb rebuilt again probably..... hehe GD

That wasn't mearly directed at you taprack - sorry if it sounded that way. It was directed at all who claim what you claim - your "side" if you will. This is simply a discussion, and if It sounded like an attack on you personally, I'm sorry - I was mearly trying to create a "heated debate". It appears I have inadvertantly gotten it a bit too hot in here.... please accept my appologies for that. You sound like an intelligent fellow, and I was hoping that you might see my point if I made it a bit finer. I made it too fine apparently. Just for the record - I'm not angry - I simply used a debate technique that I probably shouldn't have. Known as a "strawman" argument. It's more or less where you introduce a non-sequitor into the argument designed to provoke an emotional response. Probably not the wisest decision on my part. Once again - sorry. Still tho - I would like to see any technical data you could come up with. Feel free to prove me wrong. I still think you can't..... hehehe. GD

It's not a loyale then unless it's been modified. GD

No. Subaru, and Peugot 504 and 505 wheels. A few aftermarket's, but they are mostly rare, and no longer availible. The bolt pattern is 4x140mm GD

Actually - even some of the early subaru's used seperate advance, and retard lines. I don't think that any of them were connected straight to manifold vacuum, but who knows for other Brands. I agree with what your saying in principle tho - the engine will run very nice at idle - since you have a ton of advance. But as you increase throttle, you will lose advance - exactly the opposite of what you want under load. GD

Yeah - just take your belts in, and have them get you a "similar" size. Shouldn't matter. GD

Actually - the FSM's I have don't note any difference in the Distributor advance curve for 2WD vs. 4WD. Only a single graph is given. By chance, I have a 2WD disty in my wagon (it was a 2WD car!), and I can't say that I notice any difference. The Hitachi units seem less prone to malfunctions arising from shaft wear as well, so given the choice, I think I would stick with the 4WD disty. I have yet to see any hard evidence to show that a difference exists, and I can't come up with any myself..... maybe someone has an FSM that shows this elusive disty? At the very least it seems that not ALL 2WD distys have this "better" curve..... craig - your pretty quick with a scanner - you want to show the graph in your 83 manual? GD

And interesting supposition - and I would tend to agree that this is certainly possible. Especially if the HG was almost gone anyway. Might have pushed it over the edge. GD

5th should be slightly higher than 4th on the 82 D/R - about what 4th is on the 83+ 4 speed actually, and while you can indeed cruise on the flat and level with it, there's no acceleration, and any tiny uphill grade will eventually require a downshift to regain your momentum. Being that I'm running 28's on 15" rims could explain some of my lower mileage than your hatch Zap - you are running 27" swampers on 14" pugs IIRC (Jared's old tires right?) - that and my power steering is probably not helping matters any. I am guessing that Bugaru is getting 16 because of that silly Hitachi. Even with bigger rims and tires, and PS, I still beat him with the Weber. Can't imagine our Weber's are that much different - aren't all of us (Me, Zap, and Qman) all running the official kit from Redline? Hhhhmmm - wish I could get mine up to 25..... GD

If it's grinding, then it could be that your clutch is not fully disengaged - maybe you got some dirt in there.... if that isn't your problem, then I'm sorry to say that your transmission is probably gone. That said, it sure sounds like the clutch, since it goes into gear while not running. GD

You could probably get away with a 1500 or 2000, especially if you use it with a snatch block. GD