GeneralDisorder

Coolant runs through all the stock intake's - carb's too. I have heard that when the engine is warm, it can reduce the HP by quite a bit. The guy I talked to said the EA81's are tested cold, and produce about 75-80 HP. When warm this drops to around 65 HP (for a stock engine). There is no need for the coolant passage really - other than emmissions. Even Subaru did away with it on their race engines of the time I think. I suppose there could be a seperate cross-over on this bad boy, but I doubt it... GD

Just start disconnecting vac lines, and plugging them till you find it. Manifold gaskets are a common leak, as are evap canistors.... might want to rebuild that carb - sounds like it has choke issues. Spray around the manifold and vac lines with carb cleaner - that *might* find the leak, but sometimes doesn't if the leak is in a weird place. EGR valve only opens above 2500 RPM's or so.... should be using ported vacuum going through a solenoid, or a thermo-valve. GD

Ok - so I've broken 3 rear axles with the welded diff now. All have been off-road breaks. And each time except the first, the breaks have been with the smooth style axle cups. The ridged ones haven't broken on me except the first time, but my mustache bar was tweaked, and the outer joint "walked" out of the cup (but didn't actually break it - just ripped the hell out of the boot). So I'm wondering where the ridged / non-ridged ones are comming from. The ridged style seems a lot stronger, as it has more metal at the thin points of the cup. My 85 brat has two of the weak smooth style ones, but the 84 DL that my wagon's rear end came from has two of the ridged style ones. And I looked at an 83 GL at the JY and it had the ridged ones as well. Does anyone know if either of these is aftermarket, or did Subaru just switch suppliers or something? Could everyone look and tell me what is on their rig? I would like to form some hypothesis on when Subaru switched over, or what models came with what. GD

All EA81's I've ever seen were the same down there.... at least Subaru only lists one part # for the cable..... There's a cir-clip down there that holds the pedal and bushings onto the box... remove that and you can take everything apart. There's a metal pin with a push-on style retainer that holds the pedal to the cable itself. I've seen those pin's worn pretty badly before... maybe that fell out or broke. GD

Flat-towing is legal. Your just not supposed to do it for long distances... but then how does the cop know? So basically there's nothing they can do about it. GD

While that mud does indeed look pretty nasty, I'm with Zap in thinking if either Mick or Tim had a welded diff to go with those MT's instead of an LSD, everyone would have made it out. Wouldn't have been pretty, but being flat like it is..... well, I haven't come across any mud that I can't plow through *unless* I get deep enough to suction the unibody down. Then your just SOL. The welded diff makes ALL the difference in the world for stuff like that. I did a hill climb the other day that Bugaru had to take three runs at WITH a welded rear end, and barely made it up. Slick as snot, and a good 1/8th-1/4 mile to the top. Had it been any wetter, I'm not sure either of us could have made it, and there's not a chance that any soob without a locker would have got to the top. One of you should start carrying a boat anchor - no good winching from a moving platform..... GD

Man - you need some new MRE's - that's some old stuff. The chocolate was dust wasn't it? hehehe GD

Sounds like your fuel pump isn't operating while running. Check for power at the pump.... GD

I guarantee that it has an OP idiot light. It's hard to see if it's not lit. It's probably at the bottom of your tach. The switch for the light is screwed into the side of the pump. As for testing the pump - there's procedures in the FSM for it, but a loss of pressure like you describe would indicate a pretty massive failure, or a blown seal. The exact procedure involves checking some clearances with a feeler guage, and checking for flatness on the sealing surfaces, and the length of some internal springs and such. I don't have it in front of me right now, but look in any EA81 manual and it should cover it. GD

Check for computer codes. Could be a sensor malfunction - hopefully the ECU has already caught it. I wouldn't worry about the temp - sounds like it's got a good cooling system. If you need it warmer, then possibly a higher temp thermostat... or some cardboard over part of the radiator. GD

They had RX's even back in the EA81 days ya know.... so it's simply not an RX. It's not like RX's didn't exist in that year..... You could special order anything you want tho - a fully decked out GL actually could be more expensive, and have more options than a GL-10 for example. GD

ASV = Air Suction Valve. GD

Replace the pump gaskets - takes 30 minutes, and only cost's $8. This will also allow you to inspect the pump itself. If it's bad, then get another pump at the JY, and use your seal kit on that one.... The Oil pressure sending unit will screw right in from a car that has one, then you just have to wire it to a guage. Plenty of aftermarket guages availible that you could plumb in too. You also still have an idiot light for pressure - did it come on? My wagon has a digi-dash and so also does not have an OP guage. The light started comming on at idle (1000 RPM's) or lower, so I knew it was time for a gasket kit. After the gasket kit, no more idiot light at any RPM's. Of course, mine's not a turbo, so no harm came of the low OP for the short time it was this way.... GD

Looks fine to me. Same pruduct matrix as www.thepartsbin.com - which I've done business with many times. I think they have several web sites under different names, but it's all the same company. You can tell cause of the familair interface. www.drivewerks.com too Just a note - a lot of folks don't use anyting but Subaru HG's for the turbo engines, since they seem to be a point of failure often. GD

6 x 5.5" GD

Creaking is a dry bearing usually. The rear DOJ's would not make a noise like that. You can remove the rear axles if you want to make sure - only takes 5 minuets or so to remove each one (assuming they aren't rust welded on). GD

The ASV system does not rob any power, and only serves to help your emmissions. You can block it off if you want to, but there's no need. It's not dumping exhaust into your air cleaner unless it's malfunctioning. It's actually sucking air into your exhaust. And yes, it's supposed to make that loud noise - that's what the big plastic things are there to muffle. GD

You don't need to pull anything to do the clutch. You can just pull the engine forward and get in there. I've done it at the JY many times. It's tight, but with the radiator removed, it's not too bad. GD

As far as I know, the 83,84,85, and 86 Turbo fuel and ignition systems are identical. Only real difference being the EA82 core engine instead of the EA81 core. GD

It is a rubber bushing, but it's molded right into the hanger. I haven't personally seen one go bad except in situations where the hanger is bent, and the rubber stayed at a funny angle for a long time. Only way I could see to replace it is to replace the whole hanger. Likely it's just fine tho. I wouldn't worry about it. You could fill in the holes in the rubber with urethane if you wanted. GD

Don't bother with a propane torch - it's not hot enough to heat the cup quickly enough to do you any good (yes, I have tried, hehe). You want acetelene so you can get it red hot before the heat migrates to the stub - thus expanding the metal and hopefully breaking the bond of the rust. Get it red hot, and start pounding immediately. As for anti-seize, I'm sure they probably did use something, but nearly 20 years later?? probably gone. I pull one rear axle every time I go back on to pavement after off-roading (welded rear diff), and I have to reapply my anti-seize about every two trips. Of course I'm removing them and installing them a couple times a week, so rust never has a chance to really get started in my case - the anti-seize is purely for ease of installation and removal. A lubricant if you will. GD

86 RX rear diff should be a 3.7 LSD... tough to find, and when I do find em they go on ebay, since I usually get $250 or more for one. Try your local yards - you will find the same thing under some late 80's FT4WD Turbo 5 Speed wagons.... XT6's had a 3.9 LSD option as well, but those are even rarer. Here's some pics of my wagon, and my friends hatch: www.atlas4x4.com GD

Yeah - dealer only I think. Try www.thepartsbin.com GD

I have seen liquid gas come from the float bowl vent line, and that goes directly to the charcoal canister... could be the source of your problems. The canistor was a big source of vacuum leakage on my Brat, so I just disconnected it. The canistor does nothing for your emmissions while operating, so you can remove it completely, and block off all the lines. The float bowl vent I would leave open at the carb... maybe put a line on it, and run it down towards the ground like the radaitor overflow. Connect the vacuum advance directly to the carb, no gas can get in from there... see this thread for why you should NOT connect it directly to the manifold: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=15423 GD

"need alignment" HAHAHAHAHA More like: "needs a frame straightener..." GD