GeneralDisorder

Very nice! How do you like those tires so far? They look very similar to what I have - are they 4 ply or 6? Are they 27's or 28's? GD

25 HP? Your 86 should have had the hydro lifter EA81, and those make around 80 - 85 HP stock - depending on who you talk to.... I don't know what an MPFI EA82 makes, but it's got to be less than the 110 that the turbo has Just sounds like a lot to me I guess. But I'm glad it's working on for you! And of course the old engine probably had it's issues, so you may not have been getting good power from it. GD

My guess is that your torsion bar isn't ratcheted up at all actually - mine isn't, and neither is the Bugaru's hatch - we just compressed the struts into position, and bolted em on..... the reason I'm only 3/4" from you is that my tires are bigger - so I'm close even though my struts are on the lowest setting. I'm guessing that maybe Brat's torsion bars are indeed set differently from the factory.... GD

Yeah - I looked back at it, and I see that I read it wrong. I'm still 3/4" away from you. What setting are your rear struts on? I'm on the softest setting on my wagon.... GD

Yeah - I think what I need to do is actually ratchet up the torsion bar. Right now, the stuts are just in there - compressed to fit. I thought you said you had more clearance than Ken? What did he change to get that much clearance from a PK style block lift? GD

Get a Weber 32/36 DFAV from an early model ford. Pinto's and such had them. Also known as a Holley 5200 series. I have heard that the ford 2300 engines had the same jetting as the DGV's we buy from redline. Also - the carb is virtually identical to the DGV, just takes a different air cleaner (can get those from EMPI - the VW guys), and uses the same redline adaptor plate. The Carter/Weber single barrel also needs a different manifold than the hitachi.... be aware of that if you try it. But they suck - basically everyone agrees on that. I've had pretty good success rebuilding the Hitachi's, and if you wire up the secondary so they open at the same time, then you have a progressive carb at least. Pretty cheap option - rebuild kits are $25.... my Brat runs very smooth with it's Hitachi.... GD

Nope. GD

Should be electric in my experience. Simple to check - run it till it's hot, and then open the air filter box - if the choke plate is open all the way, then it's working. My vote goes next to "carb rebuild" time. Pop the top off the carb, blow out the passages with compressed air, spray liberally with carb cleaner both inside and outside of the carb - put the top back with a new gasket. Should do the trick. GD

Man - I would have put in a tranny for you for $100 labor..... Can get them from the JY for around $150 (with warrantee) GD

I doubt that - I've shipped stuff all over the place from my ebay auctions, and I've never had a problem. Besides - that's what insurance is for! GD

Seems excessive - you should find someone here on the board that has a set. Heck - I could pull you a set at the JY for probably $60 or so.... and some for my time, etc. Even after shipping you probably wouldn't be much over $100 into em. GD

Why shouldn't you flip it over? I've flipped over a number of carbs - never had a problem..... GD

They switched to vented rotors after 7/83, so if your car has a build date of 7/83 or newer, then it will have vented rotors.... GD

Awesome! I'm in for something - I'll bet bugaru will be too.... Just pick a date - likely if it's a week or more out, I can swing it somehow. Gd

Nope - that's a DFEV, or as it's known in the Ford world, a Holley 5200. It will still work - get a different air filter - and tell the "guy" at the shop he's a tard. GD

I vote for a failed Air Suction Valve. Be careful, as you have likely sucked molten plastic into the carb - this coule explain the slight sluggishness that you feel. Sometimes the plastic can really mess stuff up, and others it just gets stuck in the air box, or in the top of the carb. I had a peice of plastic stick my choke open, and I couldn't start it because of this. The plastic "silencers" attached to the ASV melt on the bottom (hard to see unless you remove them for a look), and without the silencer things get VERY loud..... GD

Yeah - And I think about 4k is where she would top out - 4100 maybe. Hard to tell exactly with the digi-tach. I had not realized that the 2WD was a 3.7, but that does makes sense now that I think on it. Sucker really moves. Thanks for the clarification on that CIS... Also - the reason my wagon is still fast with the 28's is that I'm using an 82 4 speed D/R. It's got lower 3rd and 4th gears.... GD

The relay is located near the top of the lefthand strut The pressure switch is located on the air tank, which is near the compressor - in the lefthand wheel well.... GD

2WD 5 speed, EA81 with the feedback carb. All stock. I SWEAR I hit 110. Actually I think it was more like 112, but who's counting. I had to see my digi-dash go over 100. Now with the 28's of course I can't come even close to that, but I have seen my dash hit 80, which works out to a little over 95 MPH - and that's with 28" mudders! I've had my Brat up to well over 95 (high as the guage reads) on the flat and level. It's got the standard hitachi, but a little more peppy hydro lifter EA81. GD

You need to jumper the "air charge solenoid" terminal to ground at the ECU. You'll have to check the FSM to determine the wire color.... Back probe the connector - do not disconnect it. When you turn on the ignition, the system should start to raise the struts. If it doesn't then you have bad solenoids, or a bad pressure switch. You can jumper the pressure switch to bypass it - if the compressor runs, then the switch is bad. If it still doesn't run, then bypass the compressor relay. GD

Strut's at yards around here are only about $15 each - that would be $60 to convert your whole car to a non-air setup.... that's not much. GD

All the aftermarket oil filters I have seen are about twice as big as the Subaru brand filters anyway.... so what's the point? EA81T's had oil coolers.... you might look into that. GD

Well - when the wagon was a 2WD, I got 32 MPG on a 600 mile trip doing about 80 most of the way. And I do use the seccondaries quite a bit. I would guess it could possibly do better if you kept your foot out of it. Now with the 28" mudders it gets about 17 MPG - but that's still better than a Hitachi gets with 28" tires, and the low end torque with the 32mm primary is awesome. There's no change in the high end from what I can see - I could do 110 with the Hitachi, and about the same with the Weber. I have seen Hitachi's get upwards of 28 - 30 also, but never as good as my Weber got when it had small tires on it. The Weber's also run smoother, are easier to work on, and less complicated too... And they are even bigger than an EA82 Hitachi, which if memory serves is a 28/32. EA81 Hitachi's are 26/30 Oh - and I should mention that the SPFI system from an EA82 will bolt right onto an EA81. You need to wire up the computer, and change the disty drive gear on an EA82 disty for it all to work, but this would be a cool mod too.... GD

You can run it, but I doubt you will have any serious effeciency gains - the low end torque will be a little better since the primary is bigger, but that's about it. You also have to modify the intake to fit - I'm not sure exactly where, but it will need some grinding I think. Others on this board who have done this will probably chime in. As for FI heads for an EA81, the only FI EA81 was the turbo (it was MPFI), and this has injector bosses right on the heads. Not to mention they are increddibly rare. If you want better heads, then get some from a hydro lifter EA81 - they have bigger vlaves, and the engines are rated at about 7 more HP because of it. 85 and up EA81's are all hydro. 83 and 84 Automatics are too... GD

Hehe - thanks for the plug :-p Yeah - I have done the 2WD to 4WD, but on and EA81, so it's going to be different for you. From what I have *heard*, the EA82's is easier in several ways. For one the tranny tunnel doesn't seem to be an issue like it can be on the EA81, and the 4WD shift linkage doesn't need the special little plate that's welded to the tunnel like the EA81 2WD tunnel does. Also you don't have to change your gas tank, as all the EA82 tanks have the dimple for the diff. Basically you need the trans, driveline, rear end, and possibly some of the exhaust. If you have the parts lying around, it probably would be worth it to do in your case since you got the car for nothing. GD