GeneralDisorder

Yeah - those things are often picked on cars in the local Portland yards. I would sugest takeing a trip to the salem Pick-A-Part (not U-Pull-It) down in Turner, OR. Or to B&R auto wrecking down in Eugene. GD

I haven't made any engine mounts yet - but I certainly could. The engine mounts are almost always still good in my experience, so there hasn't been much talk of those yet. Also - urethane will increase vibration at idle more with urethane engine mounts than it does for just the small tranny mounts..... GD

Just out of curiosity, how long did you let them cure before installing them? Maybe I didn't let them cure long enough or something. I waited overnight, and they seemed well cured to me.... GD

Yeah - the pistons thread back in I think. Try threading it OUT first a little ways, and then back in - and remove the bleeder screw too. This usually works for me. GD

The gear oil will come out of the rear of the trans without the driveline on, and the "cup" that's back there just slides on. so it might just *appear* to have leaked from the removal, but not actually leak when installed. GD

Thanks for the support! If someone doesn't start making these, we'll all end up paying the $55 each for new ones to SOA. And I would rather have urethane mounts..... GD

Yeah - it came out real nice. The lift went on in my driveway with no real problems - just the usual snags that always accompany this sort of thing. If we didn't take a 6 hour break on Saturday to hit a JY in Eugene, it would have been done that night, as it was we had it finished up and test driven on Sunday afternoon (didn't get up real early Sunday ). The plan is to caravan down to Medford this next Sunday (29th), and have a run with soobme, Adam, and SubaruJunkie (amongst others). Now that there's two of us in the Portland area that play hard with our soobs, we are toying with the idea of a club for up here. There's the HP up north, and the OOSC down south, but nothing for P-town..... GD

*UPDATE - 2/25/04* *These mounts failed in testing due to melting from exhaust temperatures. Please go here for the latest on this topic*

Ok - so I checked on how my mounts were holding up that I made. As shown in this post: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/usmb/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=10424&highlight=DIY They have melted due to the exhaust temperatures - apparently the stuff I used which was reccomended on a honda site that I found was not capable of withstanding Subaru punishment. So I've formulated a new plan of action. I talked to a local plastics supply house, and they reccomended a place online where I would be able to buy something more in-line with the requirements I have. I have selected this product: http://www.smooth-on.com/urethanes.asp#780 It shouldn't melt this time at least, since one of the steps to proper cureing of the product is to heat it to 150 degrees for several hours before use. Apparently this improves it's characteristics.... For those of you who are waiting on mounts from me, there will be a slight delay while I get this new product in, and test it on my wagon. If this works out, then they also have a clear version of this product that can be tinted any color you want! Kinda cool. I will update all my old posts with links to this one, and to reflect that the older method did not work..... pictures and a test report will be on the way as soon as I get this new stuff, and the mounts have properly cured. GD

AWESOME! I got my goods this morning and am very pleased. Thanks to all who made this possible. The Brat shirt is especially cool, and everything fits quite well. I will do it again next time.... GD

Yeah - have to get my bumpers on too. I'll be down Sunday Morning with my convoy..... GD

That's a LOT of work. I hope you like to spend thousands of $$$ having some poor mechanic do it for you. Why not just start with an EA82 if that's what you want? Certainly would be cheaper. GD

I'll back Noah on that one - techically speaking lower octane fuels burn hotter and more completely. You can look this up in any automotive theory book. I also agree that the turbo engines should use the higher octane due to the boost levels which do not kick in till the turbo spools..... it may run fine at idle, but it won't when that boost kicks in. GD

Yes - very nice wires. For all you who are about to install yours - use some WD40 to get the wires through the boots..... GD

You'll have to disconnect the soft brake lines from the little holes in the stut's on the front. The pitching stopper will work as it is, you just have to bend it up a little, and move the adjustment nut's farther down a bit. All the wiring / cabling should be fine with no modifications. How are you doing the rear end? It's easy to put in some EA82 adjustable rear strut's instead of blocks... that will keep the mustache bar up where it is now, and basically gives you a suspension lift in the back. You just use a bit of angle iron (4" x 2") and drill a hole in the short side for the strut top bolt, and two in the long side about 1" down for the mounting bolts to the car. Just thought of another one - if your using the hitachi, then the stock airbox will interfere with the upper radiator hose.... we just cut the airbox off right before the heat riser flapper mechanism. No problem now. Weber's of course do not have this problem. Yet ANOTHER one - if you have the A/C that is on the outside of the alternator, you will have to move it, or remove it completely, as it will interfere with the frame rail. GD

That sucks Austin. At least you made it back without getting towed like I had to after my dip in the water..... and thanks to Ken AGAIN for saving the day. I sure won't be forgetting how he helped me when my clutch went out (you too Eric). Someday I'll be able to return the favor. Glad to hear tha everyone had a good time - I would have come up, but my diff is currently out of the wagon (we welded it yesterday), and I'll be going to Medford next Sunday, so my fundage allotment for play this month has already been allocated. GD

The 5 speed is no better than an early 4 speed with the lower 3rd and 4th. You won't really use 5th on a 5 speed, just as you won't use 4th on a later model 4 speed. But on the 81/82 4 speed, you actually CAN use 4th.... as for identifing marks - I'm not aware of any. Unfortunately, there may not be any. Pulling a trans from an 81 or 82 car that looks original would be your best bet.... you can tell if the trans came from an 81 Brat GL if the 4WD shifter is turned 90 degrees... but your chances of finding an 81 Brat GL with a good tranny is slim to none..... GD

The ones that I have seen that are like this (especially the metal ones...) the gear in the diff is the real cause of the problem...... you'll just chew up another gear if that is the case.... time for another tranny. GD

I just use the axle nut sometimes - but that can ruin a good axle nut..... and if you don't have an extra..... a bit of 2x4 usually works pretty well. GD

I *think* someone checked a while back, and they are out of production.... but they did indeed make one at one time. You see them on ebay now and then.... I will check with someone I know that could make them and see what he would charge... GD

Ok - I'll grab a couple at the JY tommorow - I have someone else that wants a set for an EA82, so I'll grab a couple sets of each, and do them up. GD

Your clutch pedal may feel different than stock, but as long as the bearing doesn't fail, and the PP doesn't either - then I can't see anything wrong with it. Also - if you replaced the clutch AND the TO bearing AND it's carrier, then your probably fine. The little bearing in the flywheel would be the wrong size for the tranny shaft..... GD

I removed the old rubber that was loose - but there isn't a lot of rubber in them to begin with, and what was there, and still well attached I just left, and covered with urethane so it won't deteriorate any more. They should hold up just like any urethane mount or bushing would, and as the racing and off-road communitiy know.... they are nearly indestructible. Once fully cured, they are like a hockey puck - very dense, and hard to even bend by hand. GD

Yeah - the seal I think can be pounded in from the outside..... but if your getting a growling noise then your front diff is on the way out - either the bearings or the gears.... GD

Means that likely your throw out bearing is the wrong size (too big). GD