GeneralDisorder

Scavenging is important on these small engines. What it refers to is the tendancy for air to speed up when it enters a restriction in a pipe - this is known as the "venturi" effect. The smaller diameter of the first section of pipe in the exhaust causes a speed-up of the exhaust gasses, and this along with the overlap of the intake and exhuast valves, helps to "pull" more air/fuel mixture into the cylinder for the next engine cycle. Too big of an exhuast - especially at the heads, will lose all of your scavenging, and you'll actually lose power, due to less air/fuel being pulled into the cylinder. A lot of people use the stock y pipe, and just go with a bigger exhaust from there out to the tail - this removes the restictive muffler and small pipe from the end, but keeps the scavenging effect.... Not that this is much consolation after you spent time and money building it.... sorry. GD

tranny mounts...... http://importnut.net/motormount.htm I'll be posting with some pics of the ones I'm making today using this method. I've already got the mounts cleaned and prepped.... my friends 82 Brat is on jack stands in the garage with a new tranny hanging from the bell houseing - the old mounts were so bad that I couldn't in good concience put them back..... beats the hell out of $55 each from the dealer..... GD

Yeah - surface rust is all we really get here. My Brat had a "very" rusty door for out here - that's when the outside has a film of rust that you knock off with some sandpaper. The rack only got rusty where it was used - on the cross bars. You could remove those, and just have them chromed.... the rest of the rack looks pretty good. GD

Gonna have to have a ride in this one......soon.:cool: Don't worry Ken - GD will be in the house soon to work his magic As soon as I get the front wheel bearings done on my Brat, and the rear wheel bearings done on the wagon....... How's the clutch handle the power? Even with my stock engine, my Brat can't really handle a full dump - it just doesn't lock up hard enough. No wheel spin at all in 4 hi - even on the wet. Just clutch slippage.... GD

There's plenty of other junk yards - I for one have a serious dislike for all the U-Pull-It yards with their posted price lists. I like to haggle a bit, and their prices are WAY to high. Call around - your resourcefull enough to have found this board! There's lots better and cheaper yards for the old stuff we are looking for.... GD

Too big - you've lost all your scavenging effect! Probably a neighborhood nuisance too. LOL GD

How cold are we talking? I run castrol 20w50, and didn't have any trouble down to 15 degrees or so. Have you looked over your battery and starter recently? The starter could need rebuilding, or the battery could want changed - or a bit of both. Get something like an optima with lots of cranking amps.... running a thin oil like a 30 wieght in an engine with 150k doesn't sound like a particularly good idea to me. Got to keep that pressure up! GD

So would one benifit from SPFI EA82 pistons in an EA81 more than the EA71 pistons? If they produce 9.5:1 in an EA82, which is the same size engine, shouldn't they make an EA81 9.5:1 as well? GD

There's really no way to tell - they could last for years that way. Are the boots torn? If not, then they could last a long time, since there's likely grease in there..... if they are, then it's only a matter of time before you snap the joint. If it's 4WD, you can just put it in 4 hi, and drive with the broken axle. GD

Check your coolant level in the radiator. I've had really low coolant levels not overheat the car, but provide little or no heat to the cabin.... The A/C will come on with the defroster (it's supposed to), and the hold / cold dial does nothing other than open and close the heater core valve..... Basically, if your heater core is working, and you have coolant, and the blower is on, then you should have heat. The hot / cold dial could be binding up, and not allowing the valve to open on the heater core - but that's unlikely if the dial moves freely. You might have a plugged heater core...... that can be replaced, but it's not easy.... GD

So would this adapter be suitible for a regular car? I recall you saying that this was a special mounting job.... I for one would love to see a write up of how to make one of these - that would be great! GD

The EA71 pistons are not the same as EA81 pistons. Ask Qman - the difference is slight, but the piston pin is in a different location. CCR also knows about this - you can order an EA81 with EA71 pistons - it's common for them to do this for high performance engines they build. GD

Hhhmm - that's very interesting - I knew about the higher HP, and the larger valves / hydro lifters. I wasn't aware of the compression ratio difference tho. Curious - I wonder if the 85-89 engines actually already have a variant of the 1600 piston, or if adding the 1600 pistons would bring it up even higher. I know that decking the heads increases it a little.... that would be cool if I didn't have to change my pistons tho.... Now - another good question is does this apply to ALL hydro lifter engines? In other words would a hydro lifter engine from an 84 automatic have these same stats? GD

Ah - ok, so I just didn't see the metal underneath that bumper trim. In that case it looks to be in excelent shape - nice and supple too. Sadly - antenna is broke off. No rust or anything on the doors - I'll have to take a close look to see if there are any minor dings in the door - but it's free of major damage. Might even be perfect... It's the round compressor... The car has basically no rust - nothing rusts here, and this is almost surely an original Oregon car, as it has the old yellow plates.... I'll PM you with my number.... GD

Doesn't look good - see the thread on my 78.... GD

Well - I took a look under there - doesn't look good for a 4WD swap. There's major frame components in the way of where the driveshaft would have to go. The unibody goes across from one rear wheel, to the other rear wheel. I don't see how you could fit a driveline in there - doesn't look to be anything in the way of mounting points for a rear end of any kind - gas tank is in the way too.... the floor of the car where the shifter is doesn't look big enough to accomidate a 4WD trans either... hard to tell tho. Believe me - even EA81's aren't bolt up (of all people - I should know - I've done it!) - and this being even older I tend to doubt it would "just bolt in". Moosens has also said in another thread recently that the unibody is different for Gen 1 2WD vs 4WD - my inspection seems to point to this conclusion as well. The car has 89K on it I think. Could be 189k of course, but I tend to doubt it looking at the condition of the car overall. It's really not bad - just abused a bit because it's so old, and dirty from sitting on a farm not being driven. Like I said - the trans seems to work fine, and seems reliable even. I would think that if it made a 300 mile trip to Portland from Medford that it would last a while longer. I can't tell on the A/C compressor - can you tell me what to look for? - there's a sticker on the side, but it's mostly gone - just the corners are left. I think I can make out "tokyo" but that's about it... The muffler looks good from a cursory inspection - won't know for sure till I get it out of the car. There is an exhaust leak, but it sounds like it's near the engine compartment... looks original Subaru to me.... right rear door is good I think. metal trim peice on the bumper - I don' think it has one... there's a black rubber strip there. About 2-3" wide... The front bumper has one - the rear just has that rubber - doesn't look like it had anything metal there - but I have no clue. roof rack is starting to rust.... but it's saveable if you desired to do it. There's no rust anywhere but on the roof rack, and some little amount of surface rust in other places... Does anyone know if the windsheild from this will fit a Gen 1 Brat? GD

Simple - the car he can get the title to is 2WD - the 4WD car has no title. GD

Typical gear teeth - that one's toast. Rebuilding the 4 speed is about the worst possible request a Subaru mechanic could get as far as tranny work goes. The innards of it are a real nightmare. Special tools are required just to dissasemble it, and the amount of things that can go wrong durring inspection / repair / assembly are just mind boggling. I have a rebuild manual sitting here, and have been looking into this possibility myself - but I'm crazy. If you value your sanity, get one from the JY, and be done with it. Better yet - put in a 5 speed 4WD from an EA82 car and call it good. I'm a pretty darn good mechanic, and I wouldn'y put my chances of rebuilding one of these at more than say 20%. By the manual, and the research I've done I would have to say it might be the most challenging thing I will have yet attempted..... GD

Rebuilding an automatic trans is on the order of $600 or more.... just to throw a number out there. Mudrat told me he had an EJ auto rebuilt at one point - it was something like that. Rebuilding the manual trans is also a nightmare - beleive me - I've been researching this. The 4 speeds are complicated inside, and require a serious Subaru guru to get it right when rebuilding. I don't think there's anyone around that could do it reliably, and not charge you a FORTUNE for the work. The auto would be cheaper to fix..... I may actually attempt a rebuild, or partial rebuild of a 4 speed at some point, as I have begun aquireing the manuals for it - but I need some special tools that I haven't got yet as well.... I say stuff the Auto, and put in a stick. tranny x-member is different for auto's, you'll have to swap that off the parts car - and you also may experience a tight tunnel condition when doing to swap - hard to tell. May have to beat it in a bit. GD

If you have an original key for the car - the lock number is on it too.... Just a weird tidbit that I happen to know - Nissan used a LOT of the same locks as Subaru. That's why their key blanks are the same as our early locks. Also - I was looking through a pile of ignition switches with keys that had been removed from various cars (weird that I would be doing this I know - don't ask....), and found one that looked EXACTLY like a Subaru EA81 DL (non tilt) lock..... the tag read something like Nissan 200SX os some silly thing like that. I am quite positive it was the same thing tho - even down to the bolts that hold it to the column...... amazing the weird little bits of info I have stored away isn't it? GD

Yeah - nothing is set absolutely just yet - I think it's gonna get parted or driven one way or another. Seems everyone wants a peice of it. Caboobaroo want's to convert it to 4WD, and what not - if that's even possible..... I would love to see you get the tranny from this one Todd - works great the little bit I drove it, and the guy drove it up from Medford (300 miles maybe?) about 3 months back.... and this one has A/C - so I know your probably gonna want that stuff too.... The engine in it I'm definately keeping - since it's a runner, and EA71's are getting hard to find. I'll need it for my Brat, and possibly I'll use it's pistons and what not for a built EA81 at some later date.... If it can't be converted to 4WD, then likely body panels and such will be up for grabs - glass, etc... I mostly want the engine, front interior, fenders, bumpers if I can make em work, suspension (probably just the front assuming it will work on the Brat), and a lot of the wiring. Hard to tell what may be for sale soon..... I do think it very likely that you could get the auto trans from it Todd - I know you probably want it as a backup, and Mick said you might be interested. That and the A/C is yours for shipping and a little something to cover my labor to remove, and ship, etc... PM me if your interested. GD

you can remove it - it will just be loud and rather annoying. Doesn't hurt anything other than not having the air filter hooked to the AIS - so you might suck some impurities into the exhaust - possibly dirt or water too..... GD

What lock does it need? If all but one of the locks is good, you can just remove the bad one and either have it repaired at a locksmith, or find another good one and have it keyed to the same key as the rest of the car - thus removing the time consuming process of replacing all the locks. The ignition (contrary to poular belief) is probably the easiest of the 4 to remove if that is the case - simply remove it (I can tell you how if you like), and take it to a smith and have a new cylinder installed keyed to the original key. Cost is on the order of $20 - $30 at the smith I use...... Oh - and if all you need is keys made - get a mirror and write the number down off the passenger side door lock - they can make a key from that code - no need to remove any locks..... GD

Yeah - Legacy stuff is the way to go - the rear end from the Gen 1 should be fine - ratio wise it can be changed to whatever ratio you need simply by swapping the diff. I think the Gen 1's were 4.11 already tho... I know some of the legacy stuff is 4.11. Probably best to use a legacy LSD rear diff with the Gen 1 rear suspension, and cut down legacy axles back there.... Stay away from the EA81T - hard to find parts for, rare, and small on HP... Regular EA81's are nice - but after building it to get 150 HP from it, you could have just bought an EJ engine, and trans for the money and time.... The 81 Brat tranny is no different - it's the same as any other 4 speed D/R. And yes - they will fit - but your not really looking for D/R are you? You would be better served by AWD I should think.... GD

Well - the main problem your going to have is that virtually *everything* from any newer model is going to be too wide. The EA82T engine will need a lot of frame cutting to fit - and you only get 115 HP with that. With say an EJ22T from an early legacy you would get 160 HP, and the engine is narrower, so would be easier to fit.... plus they don't have the timing belt issues that the EA82's had - or the lifter ticking.... AND you get the ability to use the AWD trans instead of the 4WD trans. Not to mention better parts availibility. The engines and transmissions for old / new will not bolt up. There was a bell houseing change that came about with the EA81 engine, and another when the EJ's came out. The EA71 trans in the car will bolt to only the EA71, or EA63? or something like that.... Rear suspension is the same way - too wide - the axles would have to be cut down for anything you apply there. I would get the rear end from a later Gen 1 4WD, and try to make that work. Such as from a late 70's Brat, or wagon... There is only 1 model that is pre 76 and 4WD - the 4WD wagon. In fact - 75 was the first year Subaru made 4WD's..... As for axles - any newer model axle will have to be cut down - they will be too long. Likely if you going to use parts from various years you might have to use the outer end of one year, and the inner end of another. http://www.cvaxles.com in florida can make whatever you need I should think - they have a good reputation on this board... As for converting a 2WD to 4WD - moosens is likely right - a conversion could probably be done - but I know for a fact that Subaru likes to make that more work than it seems. For one thing the tunnel sheet metal is probably too small to accomidate a 4WD trans, and thus without a lift, the tunnel would have to be beat in, or cut out to make room. I'm sure something could be facricated for the rear end, but now you've got more junk under there, and that's gonna make it hard to get it low to the ground.... GD