GeneralDisorder

Pretty sure from when I was looking that those are either for the A/C, or the Cruise Control - both of which I removed from my wagon. No ill effects to be seen from their removal. I beleive they control such things as the A/C idle up, the A/C fan, and the A/C clutch for the compressor. GD

I've seen the moldable stuff that you mix - but it's really soupy, and you *must* have a mold. This stuff is more like a paste, and no mold is needed. I may do up a batch of the other stuff if I like these, and make a bunch of sets of these - maybe even offer them to other board members on the cheap. Heck - if I have a mold, I might as well make a few of em. GD

Can't bust a valve off - it's not an interferance engine. The aircraft guys run the EA81's at 7500 RPM's all day long. I think a long time ago on the old board it was mentioned that the short stubby rods in our engines would most likely make it well beyond 10,000 RPM's before bursting. GD

Does it have A/C? My wagon had those relays there - three of em - gold colored right? I pulled em out and tossed em in the garbage.... didn't affect my guages - but then I have a digi-dash. Still - I wouldn't think that would be your problem. GD

*UPDATE - 2/25/04* *These mounts failed in testing due to melting from exhaust temperatures. Please go here for the latest on this topic* *Update - 8/11/04* *Actually - they didn't melt from exhaust - I neglected to wait long enough for them to cure. 48 hours at least is a MUST or they will not be fully cured* Well - I had read a couple articles online about polyurethane tranny mounts, and how they are better than rubber, etc.... and I found an article on how to make your own honda civic torque mounts using polyurethane windsheild goo. I am currently replacing a tranny in a friends 82 Brat, and the tranny mounts are shot. The alternatives were buy new ones ($55 each - OUCH!), or get junk yard ones which probably wouldn't be much better that what he had - seeing as they are all nearly 20 years old by now.... so I decided it was time to give this polyurethane stuff a try: First a shot of what the old mounts looked like - both before I cleaned them (I used that orange hand cleaner stuff....), and after: Now for a couple shots of the finished product: They are solidifying nicely - I'll be installing them tommorow... Here's a link to the article that gave me this idea.... he shows a pic of the tube of stuff I used - I got the same stuff at NAPA: http://importnut.net/motormount.htm GD

Your slight power increase may have come from the removal of your very restictive stock muffler. Likely you would have even more power if you had at least a little smaller pipe off the heads. But if it's working for you, then go with it. GD

Um - for one thing you really should put that sensor back in - that's part of the feedback carb's sensor system, and without it, you are unlikely to be able to pass CA emissions. I can almost guarantee that your ECS light is caused by your removal of the sensor - the ECU is running in "open loop" mode because it thinks the engine is never warming up..... I had to replace that sensor on my wagon last year before I put on a weber..... same problem - dirve for 15 minutes and the light comes on. GD

Yeah - I did - forgot to reply tho - I'll do that right now.... GD

Find an 88 or 89 fuel injected GL, or GL-10. The carbs are crappy - unless you are going to replace it with a Weber..... the SPFI is plentiful, and there are tons of cars in the JY with good SPFI systems on them - plenty of cheap parts. The carbs are usually shot, are hard to rebuild, and parts - while plentiful and cheap, are usually just as bad as what you are replacing. GD

All EA81 body windsheilds are the same. You need a new or good used gasket to do the install - $55 from jcwhitney. Doing it yourself isn't really reccomended, but if you want to, you use a string, and a lot of slimy tire installation stuff.... put the string in the groove, and lay the windshield over the opening - pull the string through to the inside of the cab, and this will pull the gasket on with it - work you way around, and it's done. Basically it sounds simple, but really isn't. To get the old one out, you either smash it (really, really messy), or cut the gasket with a utility knife. GD

Scavenging is important on these small engines. What it refers to is the tendancy for air to speed up when it enters a restriction in a pipe - this is known as the "venturi" effect. The smaller diameter of the first section of pipe in the exhaust causes a speed-up of the exhaust gasses, and this along with the overlap of the intake and exhuast valves, helps to "pull" more air/fuel mixture into the cylinder for the next engine cycle. Too big of an exhuast - especially at the heads, will lose all of your scavenging, and you'll actually lose power, due to less air/fuel being pulled into the cylinder. A lot of people use the stock y pipe, and just go with a bigger exhaust from there out to the tail - this removes the restictive muffler and small pipe from the end, but keeps the scavenging effect.... Not that this is much consolation after you spent time and money building it.... sorry. GD

tranny mounts...... http://importnut.net/motormount.htm I'll be posting with some pics of the ones I'm making today using this method. I've already got the mounts cleaned and prepped.... my friends 82 Brat is on jack stands in the garage with a new tranny hanging from the bell houseing - the old mounts were so bad that I couldn't in good concience put them back..... beats the hell out of $55 each from the dealer..... GD

Yeah - surface rust is all we really get here. My Brat had a "very" rusty door for out here - that's when the outside has a film of rust that you knock off with some sandpaper. The rack only got rusty where it was used - on the cross bars. You could remove those, and just have them chromed.... the rest of the rack looks pretty good. GD

Gonna have to have a ride in this one......soon.:cool: Don't worry Ken - GD will be in the house soon to work his magic As soon as I get the front wheel bearings done on my Brat, and the rear wheel bearings done on the wagon....... How's the clutch handle the power? Even with my stock engine, my Brat can't really handle a full dump - it just doesn't lock up hard enough. No wheel spin at all in 4 hi - even on the wet. Just clutch slippage.... GD

There's plenty of other junk yards - I for one have a serious dislike for all the U-Pull-It yards with their posted price lists. I like to haggle a bit, and their prices are WAY to high. Call around - your resourcefull enough to have found this board! There's lots better and cheaper yards for the old stuff we are looking for.... GD

Too big - you've lost all your scavenging effect! Probably a neighborhood nuisance too. LOL GD

How cold are we talking? I run castrol 20w50, and didn't have any trouble down to 15 degrees or so. Have you looked over your battery and starter recently? The starter could need rebuilding, or the battery could want changed - or a bit of both. Get something like an optima with lots of cranking amps.... running a thin oil like a 30 wieght in an engine with 150k doesn't sound like a particularly good idea to me. Got to keep that pressure up! GD

So would one benifit from SPFI EA82 pistons in an EA81 more than the EA71 pistons? If they produce 9.5:1 in an EA82, which is the same size engine, shouldn't they make an EA81 9.5:1 as well? GD

There's really no way to tell - they could last for years that way. Are the boots torn? If not, then they could last a long time, since there's likely grease in there..... if they are, then it's only a matter of time before you snap the joint. If it's 4WD, you can just put it in 4 hi, and drive with the broken axle. GD

Check your coolant level in the radiator. I've had really low coolant levels not overheat the car, but provide little or no heat to the cabin.... The A/C will come on with the defroster (it's supposed to), and the hold / cold dial does nothing other than open and close the heater core valve..... Basically, if your heater core is working, and you have coolant, and the blower is on, then you should have heat. The hot / cold dial could be binding up, and not allowing the valve to open on the heater core - but that's unlikely if the dial moves freely. You might have a plugged heater core...... that can be replaced, but it's not easy.... GD

So would this adapter be suitible for a regular car? I recall you saying that this was a special mounting job.... I for one would love to see a write up of how to make one of these - that would be great! GD

The EA71 pistons are not the same as EA81 pistons. Ask Qman - the difference is slight, but the piston pin is in a different location. CCR also knows about this - you can order an EA81 with EA71 pistons - it's common for them to do this for high performance engines they build. GD

Hhhmm - that's very interesting - I knew about the higher HP, and the larger valves / hydro lifters. I wasn't aware of the compression ratio difference tho. Curious - I wonder if the 85-89 engines actually already have a variant of the 1600 piston, or if adding the 1600 pistons would bring it up even higher. I know that decking the heads increases it a little.... that would be cool if I didn't have to change my pistons tho.... Now - another good question is does this apply to ALL hydro lifter engines? In other words would a hydro lifter engine from an 84 automatic have these same stats? GD

Ah - ok, so I just didn't see the metal underneath that bumper trim. In that case it looks to be in excelent shape - nice and supple too. Sadly - antenna is broke off. No rust or anything on the doors - I'll have to take a close look to see if there are any minor dings in the door - but it's free of major damage. Might even be perfect... It's the round compressor... The car has basically no rust - nothing rusts here, and this is almost surely an original Oregon car, as it has the old yellow plates.... I'll PM you with my number.... GD

Doesn't look good - see the thread on my 78.... GD