GeneralDisorder

Ah! Well a Loyal is a horse of a completely different color. Do a search on here about EA82 swap into EA81 cars - lots of people have done it. And yes - it will bolt to the tranny - EA81 and EA82 are the same bell houseing. Still - for off-roading (if that's your intention), the EA81 is simpler and IMHO, the better choice. GD

Only thing I can say is that I wouldn't personally want the push button 4WD. You could always swap in a 5 speed D/R though. The push button ones are only high - no low range. And I don't like the vacuum actuated 4WD systems - I like a regular stick to shift in and out of 4WD - there's nothing like that satisfying clunk when you go in and out of 4WD - and the vacuum ones tend to have more problems with shifting in and out of 4WD. Least ways I've never heard of any problems with the manual shift style.... You should also know that the loyale's were a lot more stripped down than the older GL and GL-10 models that were around before the legacy line started. The loyale was a budget ride..... not a bad car - just lacking in some of the nicer features of the older GL's. I'm guessing they are somewhere between a DL and a GL for feature level.... GD

That's true - I guess he could be talking about a loyale.... didn't think of that. If that's the case, then your swap will be easier. You need to tell us what model the 93 is..... GD

It can and has been done - lots of custom fab work involved. You will have to use the EJ tranny, or have an adaptor made for it..... driveline will have to be made the right size for that..... custom engine and tranny mounts. Custom axles are one of the biggest things you'll have to do if you use the EJ trans. Big wiring mess too... GD

Hhhmmm - niether have I that I can recall - but CC was a dealer option too - I believe there was a kit floating around on the board a while back - SOA dealer CC kit for any EA81.... So it's possible for one to have it I think. I suppose that you can't count that since it's not a factory install..... but then neither were the fog lights I dont' think.... Yeah - seen a number of disty sheilds myself - what I find often times is that the clips on the air box are busted, and that's why they are gone..... GD

The double pulley alt is likely from an EA82 - all the later EA81's (83+), and the EA82's (turbo and non), use the same alt. Depending on where the AC is on the EA82, it will have double or single pulley's. If someone got one from a JY, then that would explain it - or if they bought a rebuilt, and it came that way.... It doesn't have every option - in fact it's missing quite a few..... CC being the most obvious that was most definately an option - either dealer or factory - both styles were possible on EA81's. There's other options that it may have missed out on because it's an 89, and that's the last year they made hatches. Nice looking hatch tho - and looks like the rust is repairable too. POR15 time..... GD

There isn't one if you want to do the job right. That was my point I think..... Maybe you could put a bigger screw in the adjuster to get more adjustment for the lights. It's not that hard to dissasemble the front end and fix it the right way tho - just pull all that stuff off, and bend the metal back to where it's supposed to be..... check on those adjustment screws first tho - they may have been pushed through as previously mentioned. GD

Huh - wonder what I did right? Mine starts right up and idles fine in cold weather - I pump it twice, start, hold it at about 1500 RPM's for 10 seconds, and it will never die after that..... I think it's all in the choke adjustment and the idle mixture.... You guys running used ones or rebuilt ones? Mine was brand new - so maybe that accounts for it? BTW - we have SOOOOO much snow here - haven't seen this much for 10 years probably! GD

Yeah - what Ken said - I get about 210 miles to a tank ON the odometer. My tires are 215/75r15 - up from 175/70r13's (car was 2WD...). Which yeilds a 26.7% slower speedo. So 210x.267=56.07. So my actual mileage is something like 265 to 270 miles to a tank..... not horrible considering the big tires. Works out to something like 23 to 25 MPG or so.... GD

Awsome - I'll file that one away for future reference. Sounds like it could be the switch like I thought. I remembered when I addressed a similar issue with my Brat that all the diagrams I could find showed an extremely simple start circuit. I think if I were to do this, and was going to be wireing anyway, I would also figure out a starter lockout circuit into the system to keep people (or myself!) from running the starter while the engine was running. Probably could hook it to the oil-pressure idiot light if so equipped.... GD

Dissasemble the whole front end, and straighten it back out - sounds like you've bent the underlying sheet metal holding all that stuff in place. Since all that metal is covered up with plastic and lights and such, a BFH, or a tree and a come-along is probably the best way to get all that stuff re-aligned. I can't tell you exactly how to remove all that stuff, since I am an EA81 guy myself, but if you got the grill off, and a new one on, I'm sure you'll be able to figure it out. Get the bumper off, and the headlights and the grill etc, and I'm sure the problem will present itself right away.... GD

About the only way to get the thing out in one peice is to cut all around it with a utility knife. Take your time, and don't force it or you WILL break it - they are pretty fragile. For installation, you'll have to either get a new gasket ($55 from jc whitney last time I looked), or have it installed by a glass place that can do the "liquid" type. Personally - I like the real gasket myself. Don't even try to get it out without destroying the gasket - it's impossible as far as I can tell. GD

All the wiring diagrams I've looked at show pretty much nothing between the ign. switch and the starter.... should be pretty easy to trace down with a MM - you have a manual with wiring diagrams? Start tracing that wiring..... could be the switch itself. GD

Yep - temp won't change till you start leaking and lose enough coolant to change it. However - the bearing can fail totally and lock up - if that were to happen the belt would slip and cause an awful ruckess - probably would overheat at that point. Get one from a JY - they take about 5 minutes to remove - 10mm socket, and a screwdriver and pliers for the hose clamps..... you can get new gaskets but I just use RTV - seems to work fine. Look for some at the JY that don't have any perceptible shaft play. You can get em for about $5 probably, and I would get a couple - that way you have a backup. Make sure upon installation to have the belt at the proper tension - too tight will cause bearing failure - too loose will cause belt slippage, and possible overheating. Oh - and before you go changing water pumps - check out that belt. The way you worded it "every few seconds" sounds beltish. I've had belts that sqeak because of fraying in one spot... GD

WOW! Don't try that with an interferance engine! At least the soob was forgiving enough to allow you to try again. Nice work - glad to hear it's running. GD

Yep the willamette valley has snow comming down right now - people are driving like idiots - especially in big trucks and SUV's. I just pulled my Brat into the driveway off the street cause I would hate to have some tard slide into it while it's parked. Very real possibility - we have ice with a slight dusting of snow on top right now - insanely slick! I've seen probably 10 or so trucks and SUV's off in the ditches - was driving around all yesterday and today in my wagon. With the lift and tires it's really more like a truck as far as handling goes, and I have to be careful or I'll slide all over. 4WD is nice - but doesn't help much on ice. The Brat does much better as it's stock.... wagon gets more looks tho. GD

The Gen 1's with the 5 digit odometers should be disqualified since they cannot possibly have six digit mileage readings, and would be unable to prove the mileage of the vehicle. Not that they couldn't go that far - but saying they have is not technically factual since the odometer doesn't read that high. It's hearsay, and not admissible in any court...... GD

Skip had a good method - use a plastic drinking straw through the park plug hole on #1 cylinder to know when the piston was on the upswing. Look for the timing marks on the flkywheel to come into veiw whilst doing this and if you line up the 0 mark, you should have either TDC on compression or exhaust..... if you do this with the cover off the disty, then it should become a matter of trying one of the two possibilities. The disty should be pointing at the #1 cylinder wire when the timing mark is lined up on the compression stroke for #1..... timing marks could be in your crank pully - or it could just be a notch to which you have to line up a special tool I think.... Don't actually need the timing marks either - it can be done with just the straw - a little extra trial and error will be needed tho. Yet another cool method was mentioned by Skip (again) - put a small cotton ball in the spark plug hole - when your on the compression stroke, it will blow it out! Still have to use the straw maybe to find when it's at the top of it's travel..... GD

Ask Flowmaster87GL - I know he's done it, and he's online a lot.... GD

Yeah - I sent it via UPS ground a couple days ago in fact. You should get it shortly I would imagine Haven't been on Messenger lately - I haven't been home much for the holidays.... GD

Yes - but the hybrid principle might not actually help you - a smaller exhaust will only make the problem worse - since the diameter of the exhaust impeller is smaller, it will have less rotational torque, and take longer to spin up a heavier intake side. It's just like using a small breaker bar vs. a large, very long breaker bar - it's easier to use the larger one. Same goes for the exhaust side - it will be easier to spin up a smaller exhaust side, but at the same time it will also be more difficult if that is hooked up to a larger diameter intake side. What I'm trying to say is that the smaller exhaust impeller is going to "inherit" the large inertia of the intake side, and also not have good torque due to it's smaller diameter - you lose in both respects. This is of course all very acedemic, and who knows how much it will actually affect the performance - some experiments are in order. Discussion is great, but some charts and graphs of impeller sizes / and exhaust flow rates over time are in order I think.... GD

Your choke is not adjusted properly - there's three screws on the choke retainer ring that you can loosen, and turn the choke till it's set so it will idle with the choke not fully pulled off (hasn't heated up yet). You'll just have to play with it. Sometimes they need asjustment seasonally - depending on how severe the changes in weather are in your area. GD

It won't spool the same - the turbo is bigger, and therefore has more inertia - it will spool slower. GD

Your brake booster likely has a vacuum leak when you apply the brake. If it's not a large leak, everything will still work fine. A correct booster will cause a slight change in idle if you pump the brakes, but if you hold them in it shouldn't technically change the idle like your describing. I wouldn't worry about it unless it's severe. GD

I could probably reconstruct that one Shawn - but didn't he come with color sometimes? Like red horns and stuff? I don't know, but I thought I remembered seeing one somewhere.... GD