nipper

Thats why i asked about a very sloppy timing belt. Get the replaced.

If ti was breaking up I would have some, but since it is just cutting out, i am not sure. Usually if the engine looses power as the load increases (goes up in gears) it is usually an ignition issue. This needs a really good diagnostician. Hrm Hrmmmm Get a fuel pressure gauge and check the pressure when it happens. You may have a fuel pressure issue from the pressure regulator, i am just guessing and out of ideas. You need air fire and fuel for suck squish bang. You have suck, you have squish, it is left to bang. The way the iggy sysytem works if it works in 1st it should work in all gears unless maybe fuel delivery is not up to snuff?

The Justy Replaced the timing belt (and still got it off by one tooth) - will adress that after vacation Adjusted the valves (sort of useless now) Cleaned rebuilt carb of all the crap from the fuel line - He started but won't idle, see previous f*ckup Cleaned out the interior from all the work Blu PS rack 4 tires A bath

Will you have someone who knows about AC helping you?

Replace all the o rings and i would replace the valve too

Valves leak too, why go for the common solution when there is a potential obvious one? The Oring leak may have been caused by you from stressing the fittings. How do you plan on evacuating the system? Do you have pressure gauges?

Mice like dry dog food DUDE .. you will have cats hanging out and keeping away the mnice, sorry DUDE but that really is a common solution to the problem DUDE and highly recomended. (guess which word I hate)

If you have traces of fluid around the port, why not suspect the port of leaking?

It may not be the issue but it needs to be done along with a full tuneup.

General rule is when you swap a subaru engine, the timing belt, idlers, seals and water pump should all be done as they are much easier out of the car, especialy on an unknown engine.

Just a question, how is the timing belt?

Who wants to double pump in a panic stop, when the internal pressure is the highest. First fix the dragging caliper, next make sure the rears are free. They must move freely, not just a little freely. even if they feel fine clean the pins anyway. Even with a heat gun , i would still check all 4 calipers and clean all 4. With a stuck caliper pumping the pedal sometimes helps, and can mimic a bad MC.

Sometimes to come to the conclusion of a bad MC you have to rule out everything else. This is not a part that you want to take a wait untill it gets worse to properly diagnose it. Does the pedal sink to the floor when you stand on it with the car running? Have you ever done brakes before yourself?

This is typical of either a stuck caliper or a failing Master Cylinder. Check everything at the wheels first, dont just look at the pads, swing the calipers up and make sure everything slides.

Well it takes up server space and server space costs money. So if someone else will host the images that would be the same as using Photobucket, which is what people do now.

If it was breaking up it would have been an engine related issue, but since it just stops responding it is a limp mode of some kind. Go back and check ALL your harnesses for damage and dsiconnect and reconnect everything. Lets start with the basics.

Does the spedometer work ?

check heat shields to start, they are prbbly loose. Any CEL?

Just lurking.. but what a mess.

Re re re re check the timing marks. I just went through thsi with my simple justy, so it just happens, everything looks great till the tensioner is released.

Everyone is over thinking. Cat food. Put out cat food by the car every dayn (or night). Everyone has stray cats, it will solve the problem. Mice can make themselves incredibly flat so it is amazing where they can get into.

You are in limp mide, not many things do that. A vss signal can do this but if you have a spedo ... *ahem* It should be fine. is it just hitting a ceiling or breaking up at 4K

If you can even find R12, make it last as long as possible R134 is an god coolant in a system built for it (larger) and an OK one for a retrofit. Start over from square one here. Us a recycling/vacume pump (by law you have to especially if there is a shop involved, stiff scary fine if not used). The compressor can be rattling due to contomination, or self destruction. The pressure gauges wil really tell you all you need to know. http://www.aircondition.com/tech/questions/82/ http://www.aa1car.com/library/ac98.htm

Some recalls have a ten year window, some do not, you have to check. Either way this is soooo important have it checked and replaced asap. This is not safe. Also a bad PB booster can feel like a bad MC. The MC however will sometimes do it then not do it at the start of the failure. Have you done the PB test? car off pump brakes 5 times press brake pedal start car pedal should move to the floor, if it does PB is ok. Another possability is stuck calipers in the rear nad way out there is bad brake lines but that would make a spongy pedal.

A diode is basically a one way vlave. If the one way vlave leaks, there is some very minute draw through the valve (diode) so yes diodes can be the issue. Pulling all the fuses and links should have killed this off. I'm going with the Alt or starter.