nipper

I get it the first R to D shift, i never worried or thought about it. nipper

this is easy, it is atuneup and a front O2 sensor. Dont fix the O2 sensor you may never get rid of the stumble. nipper

OE Thermostat only At 203,000 miles, I dont think it would be the original waterpump, if it is thats a possible issue. Something simple, replace the radiator cap. Alos at the mileage, inspect the radiator physically. Make sure all the cooling fins behind the condenser are in one peice. It is also possible the radiator is clogged. nipper

EEEK i have never paid more then 675.00 for all those parts and work, thats a freaking ripoff.

Inners are hard to diagnose, they will drive you nuts.

Yes. Well no now. Endwrench totally reworked thier site, and took down a lot of information, including that. You can search here and look at idlers that failed after a timing belt was done. If you dont do so be it, but it is cheap insurance, since the engine is already apart its easy to do. I always do, and never would tell a customer not to do it. Wow i really don't like what endwrench did to the site. So many ads for subaru parts. 80% of the old info is gone

You have torque bind and the clutch pack needs to be replaced. When it doesnt go away with the FWD fuse, you either have a failed solenoid, a dying solenoid, a bad clutch pack or all of the above. The other problem is now much easier. It sounds like the starter contacts. you do not need to replace the starter. The contacts are replaceable. nipper

Ah yes grasshoper ... You can look for play in the universals, but you need to take them down and see if they are seized. Mine had a lot of play in them, others had them seized. The innner tie rod end is a little tough. It doesnt take much play, in facct the play may be almost impossible to see. New inner tie rod ends are a really tough to move around, and i mean tough (in the ball socket). Worn ones will just flop around. If you a torn boot on the tierod end, odds are it is shot due to age and mileage. The traditional way to look for lay through observation is really hard on an inner. The boot hides any visiual play unless it is really OMG bad. YOu can jack up that corner of the car and wiggle the wheel while watching the tie rod end for any play. If the inner is really bad you may be able to feel it. nipper

Subaru recomends replacing all pullies with a timing belt change. Very few of them last as many miles as was stated above, it is not worth the risk. Most the time they give up the ghost 30-40,000 miles later. replace the tensioner, same reason. replace the water pump as murphys law dictates it will leak after the TB change. Again they are designed for 105K so anything past that is free, but you have to dig into it like another timing belt. Bad grosgary, he skipped some parts. Cam seals. Main seal. Re-seal the oil pump. That will take care of sny future (and they will happen) oil leaks.

Yup thats a driveshaft sympton. Check inner tie rod ends too. nipper

How odd It seems like most the reports of stolen cars on here come from the PNW. nipper

Yes what Farifax said

I noticed at the Autoshow it is a mixed bag. Some went to lights, some are still using gauges. I think it may be the desgn cycle. I remember my Uncles Chevy when i was little had a cold light and a hot light. nipper

*makes note and files it away*

If i remember correctly from when I owned the same car, the answer is no. There was some oddness about autos and manuals having a different number of splines, which is bad enough to match up properly. Most stores dont know this or really don't care as the rbuilders dont mark the boxes properly. . Loyale is a differnt animalall together.

If you do not know what you are doing, do not do it. This is one of the few systems on a car that I REALLY recomend going to a professional. Refrigerant doesnt just dissapear, it leaks out due to a bad O ring usually. Refrigerant can easily give you serious frost bite at the very least, or damage you AC system. Like everyone else said, the gauges on those cans are there for decoration. You really need a real gauge set to add refrigerant safely. nipper

i don't see anything listed about a valve adjustment, tuneup. Have you taken a vacum gauge to the engine to see how it is running internally. Sort of everything you have thrown at it is like cutting off your foot for an ingrown toe-nail. You need to get the car back to the way it was originally (aside from the cat for now) to really do a good diagnoses.

Darn i was going to guess Eastern. I agree with above, shop that is good at this kind of thing, as not all shops are. nipper

:-p

That won't help. Trouble codes and the ECU are just tools. You still need to properly diagnose the issue. I dont think you want to spend 1500.00 for a car-puter or try to hide a laptop that is continously running. The ECU does have more codes, but if it is a hard code it will be stored.

Why?

We can't even guess what it is without having the code read. nipper

BTW it is not ujoints. They start at higher speed and start working down (shows up at 75, then 70, then 65, then 60), clunk, or really vibrate at all times (thier death moans). nipper

Brake discs slightly flex, ever so slightly when torqued. Normally its not an issue, but if you have an out of round disc, worn brakes, and the moon is in the sign of Libra, it can cause a squeek. nipper

Semi-permenitly. It has to be unplugged for inspection and i have used it in others cars (with a little effort to get it out). Yes temp gauges have been buffered after electric fans started being used widespread. Customers were complaining that there cars would start to get hot then the temp needle would drop. I don't consider it a biggie when it comes to monitoring the engine temp. nipper