nipper

http://www.sb9t.com/forums/showthread.php?p=23753 LOOKIE!!! See if that helps http://downloads.bustedfingermotorsports.com/06%20B9%20Tribeca%20Service%20Manual/07%20forester/tech%20reference%20booklets/MSA5P0137C71053%20HVAC.pdf http://downloads.bustedfingermotorsports.com/06%20B9%20Tribeca%20Service%20Manual/07%20forester/tech%20reference%20booklets/MSA5P0135C34823%20electrical%20system%20operation%20and%20diag.pdf

S are you going to lift and wheel this

Lighting in a modern car is no longer a simple affair. First thing is go back and check the owners manual and see if your missing something. Are you talking about buttons or actual digital display. If its the actual digital display its going to be in the BIU in a complicated mess of drivers and circuit boards and chips. The Display glows, its not illuminated by bulbs if its a readout you are discussing. You may need a FSM to figure this out Gary. It may be a low/high circuit that is a branch of the lighting circuit.

I think you have a bad lighting control module actually. If you run 12 volts to anything digital in a car lots of magic smoke will appear.

If the cap is bad it wont draw coolant back int the radiator. It chouldnt be full, should be at the hot or cold line.

Three things to look at (for now we will skip the ever fearful headgasket) 1- Radiator cap 2-Thermostat 3- Cooling system leak How is your coolant level?

Also the range of the gauge is important, as the lower end of the range is more critical then the upper end of the range. If I remember correctly you will need a special (and easy to get) thread adapter as Subaru is a special little snowflake when it comes to oil pressure threads. I would use a Tee and kep the oil pressure light.

If your refrigerant is really low the AC compressor won't come on. This is one thing on the car you may want to take to a shop to get leak tested and serviced. Those cans suck as far as gauges and you need a proper gauge set.

Well there are things that need to be replaced that you cant hit the seller for. Make sure ALL the idiot lights come on with cranking.. Get the car up to 65 and feel for any mid car vibrations (drive shaft). Mabe have the codes scanned to see if there is anything hiding) OHOHOH there is a boot on the passenger side of the car at the tailgate, pull it back and check for damaged wires. Heated seats may or may not work, its a 2800.00 car not to beat him up on. You can get him for engine/transsion/struts/suspension stuff. Check all the rubber boots on everything. Inspect the steering rack for leaks.

Get the vin number off the car and google it. See what comes back, then I would get a car fax to start with. What is your ride now?

Thats bothered me when I have test driven new cars, you want me to give you 25,000 dollars based on a ten minute drive and I cant return it? On any car you will need to change all the fluids check the brakes and suspension before a long drive like this. Pay a shop you trust to inspect it.

Better Question, whats the pricepoint being asked of the car?

The driling takes place of a jiggle vavle in better thermostats. The jiggle valve lets air through but (mostly) not water. Try Radiator.com to see if they list a dual core option.

H6 tend to be hard on the front wheel bearings and rotors, otherwise nothing special. All the typical AWD things to watch for, matching tires, turn in a circle etc. At 236K ANY car can have a head gasket issue, You are no longer in to bad design territory but how well was it maintained territory. Actually if i had to pick a place to break down in a Subaru, Colorado would be my 1st choice Look for rust under the body cladding on the rear quarter panels.

Ok something else to check, test your Alt output. A low alt output can give a false high temp gauge reading. AC system put some gauges on it to make sure the pressure is where its supposed to be. I am going with a suspect radiator at this point. Get yourself a cheap IR Thermometer off of Amazon (got mine for 19 bucks) and scan the radiator, In the old days you would feel for cold spots if suspecting a clog, or measure water in vs water out.

New doors and bumper? replaced engine? Back away slowly, no RUNAWAY! No one just installs new doors and a bumper because they were spray painted, they just respray them.

There really isnt a benefit changing to synthetic oil unless you do alot of short trips. Even then i would just do an extra oil change a year. Synthetic oil doesnt cause leaks. What it does is carry off the dirt that was keeping a weak seal from leaking. The seal if it was going to leak, it would with time. I would stick with what has been used in the car. Have you tried Rockauto.com ?

Head gaskets are easy on this engine. Has the radiator cap been replaced (sorry if its been mentioned already). Adding an external oil cooler adds capacity and cooling. Since your in Texas, do you have ac? If your AC is malfunctioning it can add heat to the cooling system Check the rad to see if it is clogged.

Subaru engines like the stock plugs. It's been a while since I shopped plugs so dont know if you were upsold on plugs, i am guessing you were. You need to get OE wires or the best aftermarket available. Wires do age and fail with time. A torn boot means new wires. With Subarus cheap wires mean youll be replacing them again shortly, so pay more and have them last.

It doesnt matter as it just sends a signal to the TCU, like a switch. 10 amp is fine.

AACK it won't let me edit the header

Leave those green connectors unplugged. They are for flashing the ECU, not something an owner ever does.

There are a lot of poor rebuilt alternators out there. I would suspect the Alternator, how are you or they testing it? Have tou checked all the connections and the master fuses? It got so bad in my 97 I bought a used OE one from a scrapyard after 4 bad rebuilds, and that lasted for years.

My goodness how we are forgetting the obvious. He said no crank, an IAC would not stop the car from cranking. Starter contacts.

It's been said a few times. Now will he listen?