nipper

And the ECU gets the signal from the TCU. You can not spertae nor interupt that signal. You will afect engine performance, and may even throw yourself into limp mode. nipper

Sheesh like i said, there is no ONE sensor doing the job. If one sensor fails, the ECU will use the second one to drive the spedo. You need both of them to make the AWD operate. The TCU compares front and rear output speed, along with other sources to determine how much RWD to apply to the car. nipper

These are all wear items. the clutch, the seals etc etc. Its not like the trnasmission went out. If you decide to replace the car for the human equivilant of a bad haircut, remeber, you will have to shop for a new car, pay title fees, taxes, and not know what is wrong with the next car. I would just fix this one. nipper

are all the lights out, or just the dash lights. There is a very expensive black box called the illumunation controller that is mounted behind the kick panel that i would be suspect of. If you can get to a junk yard you can get it cheap. nipper

Its much easier to disconnect the u joint and correct it. Thats laso the proper way to do it. The other way is a lot more work. nipper

What he said. If this was a 150,000 miles we would try to diagnose it a bit more, but at 200,000 miles, with a tired 3rd gear synchro, it may not pay to put the work into it. nipper

That i havent seen before. Maybe talk to a body shop? nipper

I know its a SOHC Alot easier is only easier if you have done a DOHC before. Since the poster hasnt done any timing belt before, its only proper to tell him that may be the only difficulty he may have. I say go for it , there is something to say about the pride of doing something like this yourself. nipper

the ball joint pulled out, or has the stut upulled off the ball joint? nipper

tightening them wont have any effect on the gromit seals around the buckets. The skip your describing is from just what your seeing, and go ahead and change the plugs. nipper

about half the cost of the job is labor. Whne Blu had it done it was 650, that was all the seals, the water pump, the belt, the idler and tensioner. If you got a place to do it, go ahead and do it yourself. Technically its not that hard to do, just lining up the timing marks will make you batty. nipper

prvt me with your email. nipper

Ok here is some details. Vss1 vss2 and the torque converter turbine speed sensor all share the same hot. I am working off a 2000 manual, but there shouldnt be to much differnce. The They all have thier own feeds right to the TCU, so just get under the car and look at the wire colors, and hoepfully they will all flow the same. Use a meter. nipper

PS Now if you can half the pulse from the VSS sensors that may work for you. nipper

They phased out the the fuse as the TCU got more sophisticated. Your going to have to plug it in to both VSS. Otherwise the puter will think the wheels are spinning and can make for some wierd handling. If its just generating a signal, just wire it into the VSS wire. I dont think a sooby is going to like this, as you may not get the AWD working with you as it should. Someone must have a chip outhere that has taken off the speed limiter, or something like that. nipper

Did you change the oil? nipper

Get the "kit" from subaru. After market the seals for the buckets (spark plugs) are inferior and will not last very long. nipper

Its a weekend, it gets quiet. what in heck is a speed cut controller? 118 mph or thier abouts. Also you have two speed sensors. Also without one VSS you wont have AWD. If you cut out both you will be in limp mode and be speed limited to 50 mph. I really really dont think you need to do this or worry about it unless you have straightaways over a 1/2 mile long. You can make u[ for time on the corners as opposed to the straights. nipper

i suspectit might jump again it its the original tensioner and ifler. Those parts will last 120K, (2 timing belt changes) but wont usually last nush beyond that. Just something to keep an eye on if it happens again. nipper

Technically the oil is already burning if he has smoke, just there is no flame. Also i wont be the one to say "no you wont catch fire" amd he be the one in 10,000 that does. Oil spray is being sprayed on top of a very very hot exhaust and catalytic converter, There are the proper parts for ignition, just not enough constant suplly of fuel. As to which is leaking the worst, yes. It can be any of them that are worse then the others, it just depends upon which one is in worse shape then the other ones. You dop not need a new cat just because oil is being sprayed on top of it, thats just silly. Also think about replacing the water pump and idlers as long as the seals are being done. Personally every 106,000 miles i have all the seals replaced, the water pum and idler/tensioner replaced as they rarely make it to the next 106,000 miles without failing. Good luck. nipper

Replace the wires too, as the oil damages the rubber in the wire boots. you could end up with a mis-fire problem in the future. nipper

Well guess who is going to re-seal thier engine. The Shop told you what was wrong with it, and this is what happens. The oil leaks are being thrown onto your hot exhaust system while the car is moving. When you stop the car, all that oil is stiil burning off. Been there done that. Also you prbbly need a main seal and an oil pump re-seal. Check your oil level, as if it is as bad as i think it is, your loosing alot of oil. Also may as well do a timing belt, and apologize to any motorcyclist that is ever behind you. nipper PS its not technically safe to drive because everyone is choking on your oil smoke, you can damage the engine, and yes your car could possibly catch fire. Not to mention when you turn on the defroster you will be smoked out of your own car. You need all the front seals replaced.

yup im rusty on the older cars, but they all fill the same. The trick is to have the car running when you are filling the cooling system, and SLOWLY add coolant. Wait for a surge of coolant out of the radiator, that will be the T-stat opening. Wait for that to settle down, and SLOWLY add more coolant. i bet your airlocked nipper

i think we may be spliting hairs here, as either way it sounds like you need a transmission. nipper

Ok. so the cams are timed. You cant get the disty to be properly set. i'm still wondering if there is an air bubble in the system. I dont remeber , does this have a water valve on the heater core? nipper