nipper

A quick test: Fuse out floor the car. Put the fuse in and floor the car. One will spin the tires (the 2nd). nipper

It's just trying too hard to be cute

Well there are the obvious things. If the car has not had a tranny flush in last three years its due. Check the power steering fluid level. If its a PS groan it will make the noise with the hood open as you slowly turn the wheel. Other thngs that may cause a groan, a coil sping, a bad wheel bearing, a grake pad or lazy brake caliper. nipper

DARN IT now i have to clean my computer sreen nipper

http://subarujusty.proboards20.com/index.cgi nipper

This may be one of those sounds that you have to let get worse before it can be fully diagnosed, but i would guess the cv joint. i am seriously impressed that some disected the axle. Let it go for a while and it will let it self be known. If these are original axles, they are due. i dont have a fsm for this car, so i cant help with the tolerances. nipper

i think you mean water methanol injection. A "detailed instructions for a DIY water meth injector" in this day and age sounds wrong on so many levels. nipper

http://www.ccrengines.com/id28.html mwe

Thats why im wondering if its the pressure switch on the PS that went bad. Without that the car may stall on tight turns. nipper

Paper factory manuals come up on ebay. Personally i prefer getting a book dirty then my laptop nipper

Front outer CV joint. nipper

http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/89678_valve_angles/index.html http://64.78.42.182/sweethaven/MechTech/Automotive01/default.asp?unNum=2&lesNum=4&modNum=4 Its technically not a hard thing to do, but i would find an old head to practice on. I havent used a cutter, i've used stones, but here is a cutter http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEWAY-VALVE-SEAT-CUTTERS-WOW-NO-RESERVE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ35625QQihZ018QQitemZ280253089618QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW nipper

only if the AWD sytem is malfunctioning, or if the switch that boosts the idle speed when the steering is at full lock is not working. nipper

Well hes 1/2 right. The general fix is to install an aftermakret cooler and a spin on transmission oil filter, and change it frequently. Other solutions is to spend the bucks and have the tranny rebuilt with an aftermarket kit that solves the problem (the lockup torque converter sheds material as well as the clutches) , install a legacy transmission and rear diff, or install a 5 speed. We wont even mention rear wheel bearings. nipper

er um i am so afraid of you "i wanted to save a little money" goes right up there with "here, hold my beer". Not that i should encourage you, but you dont need an expensive machine to do the valve seats, but something more like this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Kwik-Way-Willis-Jones-Valve-Grinding-Reamer-Tool-Sets_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ43991QQihZ019QQitemZ290249836552QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW now if you have to grind the valves themselves you need a lathe, and an understanding of what the heck your doing. nipper

You can just unplug the knock sensor. I dont think lifter tick will thorw it off, as it is removed from the knock sensor by many gaps from moving parts. If this is a rebuilt head it should not be ticking. Did you replace the lifters? A noise that can throw it off is a bad timing blet idler/tensioner bearing. nipper

So the land of milk and honey and classic subarus nipper

i'm ducking out of this one, as i feel like everything i am saying is falling on deaf ears. good luck. nipper

OK by the time everything is said and done, it may be cheaper or cost the same to fix your transmission, as opposed to swapping it out, i dont know. i cant tell from the way you are describing your problems. Swapping a tranny can be risky. A transmission wont make your can stall. Go to the autozone and get your codes read, and let us know what they are. Torque bind is a grabbing feeling in tight turns, where you may find it very hard to cut the steering wheel hard. You may need to give the car lots of throttle to get it to move during a turn. The repair is in the 900.00 range. nipper

they always leve out those itsy bitsy teensy weency details .... You know like "we can get lots and lots of energy from splitting the atom, but pay no attention to that odd green glow" kind of thing. The timing belt is due at every 106,000 miles. Lets for a moment assume that it is ok. The flashing is telling you the last time you used the car there was a fault in the transmission. i will bet my next paycheck (keeping in mind i dont work ) on you having a failed Duty C solenoid. This needs to be fixed, and it can make the car handle unpredictably (read that telephone pole is coming up to me awfully fast). in wet weather. awd requires the front and rear axles to spin at differnt speeds. in an auto, the duty c is part of that system to allow that to happen. When it fails the front and rear axles are locked together. This is bad. You will have issues with making turns, parking, and pulling into parking spaces. you can damage the CV joints, drive shaft, transmission mounts. Search Torque bind here. i think some of the problems you are seeing is due to the torque bind. nipper

With ttransmission issues, sometimes you have to look at the big mass of metal attached to it. When was the last time the car had a tuneup or the timing belt changed? nipper

Yes did the 2005 Kit supercede all the previous bearings up to 1995? nipper

That doesnt make any sense at all. Are they assuming the old grease will do the job? What if the old bearing imploded and you had to remove all of it. Maybe the grease that is supplied to install the bearing is enough grease? Any subaru service techs out there want to quantify this for us? nipper

http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/ReplacingInfo.pdf "Always insure that the new bearing is properly packed with suitable wheel bearing grease. The grease that the bearing is shipped with is not sufficient." nipper