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Everything posted by nipper
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From the SAE automotive handbook 4th edition pg 384: "The purpose of the piston, connecting rod, and crankshaft assembly in the reciprocating-piston engine is to trnasform the gas forces generated during combustion within the working cylinder into a piston stroke, which the crankshaft then converts into useful torque at the power-output end of the engine." And for the more geeky "The gas force (Fg) which acts on the piston can be subdivided into the side forces (Fn)applied by the piston to the cylinder wall and supported by it, and the connecting rod force (Fs). The connecting rod force, in turn, causes the tangential forces (Ft) to be applied at the crankshaft journal. This force together with the crank radius generates the shaft torque and the radius force (Fr)." Then it goes into a formula which i have no idea on how to reproduce on a keyboard, but it results in vibration calculations. and wikipedia is cheatting, and not allways correct. nipper
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As simple as a driveshft looks, its really hads a few critcal tolerances. The alingment and the balance of the universal joints and the shaft are critical. That 35.00 is the part, but the installation should be done by a dirveshaft shop, so add a few bucks for that. Once again, its not the part itself that is expensive, it's the labor. And the skill set. nipper
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As long as the system has not been opened to the air for any length of time, you dont need a reciever/drier. The desicant tends to discentegrate after its been exposed to refrigerant, then air. If it loks like this may take you two days, cover the ends of the ac lines with baggies then zip tie them sealed. Its not a big deal if you need one. Go with a used condenser. Its rare for them to leak. nipper
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Remember how i said nothing is impossible as long as you have thumbs? I just went through the FSM, and i cant picture a way that he can do this. Maybe i'm not stupid enough, but the only way for him to really screw this up is to have one tie rod turned all the way out, and the other all the way in. Maybe he tried to do this without removing and centering the steering wheel. It is allowable to remove the wheel and center it, sometimes it needs to be done. Thats why they are attached with a nut. nipper
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Assuimg your never going to get the AWD clutchpack fixed, by a honda. Seriously, youll get better gas mileage. Why have an AWD car if your not going to fix the AWD. That said if your not going to get the AWD fixed, just remove the second half of the drive shaft and be done with it. If you are going to get it fixed, get a used sriveshaft from a junkward. Get the carrier bearing and all if it comes that way. It will just bolt in, very straight forward. nipper
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YOu dont need a cat. YOu need are front O2 sensors. Cats rarely go bad on these cars. Also there is no risk in replacing the semsors, since they should be replaced with a cat anyway. If you do a search here, youll find maybe 2-3% of bad cats actually are the cat, while 98% are the sensors. You have sensors up and down stream from the cats. The one behind it is fine, so its the front, i dont remeber if you have 1 or 2 on a 6. They should be OE. nipper
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An Eletrical Challenge. going crazy
nipper replied to True2Blue's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
its been ages since i looked at one of these, but isnt there like a illumination amplifier or some such thing that works the lights? nipper