nipper

you think? hehehehe yes i would reinforce it, as i dont know if it has been weakened by it being bent. Bushings can be safely purchased from anyone. nipper

It is possible they forgot to plug the ac compressor clutch back in. Look under the hood and trace back from the AC cluthc. You will see a black wire. Follow it and see if its plugged in. nipper

PS And for once i have pics that porc doesnt :banana: :banana:

Blu has a lift kit of 2" Someplace on here i have photographed and posted what needed to be changed. Lets review Upper and lower radiator hoses.. i think mine still have the part numbers on it, i can look if you want. Fuel lines from the chasis to the engine need to be replaced with longer hose. The vac lines for the charcoal canister need to be replaces with longer hoses. Air box bracket can be scrapped It serves no purchae after the engine is lowered (or body raised). A notch should be cut in the guard bracket If using the facotory air box it will look like this Under the car (no pictures). I had to replace the shifter cable as it was not happy. The bracket that holds that cable on the tranny needs to be modified. You need to loose one reat exhaust hanger at the tailpipe, otherwise it will always thump on the floor. You will also need to modify the heat sheilds under the floor a tad bit, but nothing major. I have yet to do is flip the rear radius rods. This is what the engine compartment looks like when your done hope that helps. nipper

Nothing is ever simple. But ill give you a basic course (which everyone should know how things worked pre computer to understand computer controlled). In the good old days... you had the front pump (still exists). This makes the line pressure that makes everything possible. You had the throttle position (eithe a cable to a valve or a vacum modulator) and a govenor (to detect road speed). The valve body is basically a hydraulic computer. The balancing act is throttle position vs govenor output. http://auto.howstuffworks.com/automatic-transmission.htm In a modern transmission, alot of the vlave body has been replaced by solenoids for automatic shifting. The govenor has been replaced by the vehical speed sensor. The modulator has been replaced by an input from the ECU to the TCU. There is some program fiddling to soften the shifts, things that could never have been done with the old valve body, ie reducing engine torque during a shift, engaging two gears at the same time during an upshift to name just two. Like everything else under the hood, nothing really has changed since the automatic was invented, just the way it is managed has been changed (and of course materials). nipper

OK lets do some tests. Get yourself a haynes manual. The cam sensro, the crank sensor, and the collant tepm sensor can all keep the car from starting. I bet the coolant temp sensor is shot. The position sensors put out a low AC signal to the cpu. Hand crank the engine and look for a heartbeat on an analog meter. Cam sensor is spark and fuel, crank is timing (dwell). Next use an ohhm meter to check the CTS to see if it has an open. Also check the connnections to make sure they are clean connections. Checking for spark is easy. Just hold the wire 1/8-1/4 inch away from the engine. You can use an insulated screwdriver in the spark plug boot, or ground out an old spark plug in the boot. you should get a nice strong blue spark. nipper

That sound may be the Duty C solenoid, its normal. So its not starting at all now? Do you have spark and can you hear the injectors clicking?

:banana: i'm not the only one. nipper

Well they are, just ask your computer :-p

Do you have cruise control? (and i agree with the above) nipper

oops i misse the legacy part, i thought it was an outback .... my mistake. nipper

That means it has a bad/blown HG and someone put a 2.2L in it. How are you determining the shift pattern? nipper

Do a search, i have written extensivley on why, not only subaru, but why almost every mfg in the 1990's had at least one engine with a bad HG design. nipper

Wheel bearings will come and go initially. You can wait it out till it gets noiser if you want. nipper

There you go, a blown strut. it happens. nipper

any broken springs in the front? Look carefully as they can be decieving. I also wouldnt rule out a blown strut, do the bouce test and tell us what you find. How are all the bushings? nipper

How do you know the altenator is good. 15-16 volt reading is WAY too high and has probably damaged the battery. Get the system properly load tested, with one of those nice old analog silver test boxes. The digital ones really are not that reliable, as the techs most the time dont know how to read them properly. You need an altenator and probably a battery. nipper

Wheel bearing. Its time to jack up the car, spin the tire by hand, and see what it sounds like. Also check for any play. nipper

Intermitent things are hard to tell. My gut tells me it was electrical in nature. Was this the first start of the day after sitting all night? Lets try something. In the dark, with the engine running, using a spray bottle, spray the ignition system with water and look for arcing. If there is none, we can hopefully rule out the ignition system. When was the last time the fuel filter was changed. Blu does this once in a blue moon and drives me nuts. nipper

It's the only thing he hasnt replaced yet, mights as well. nipper

I'm thinking its flooding from a leakdown too. This can also cut down the oils life. Does your engine oil smell like gas? nipper

When it won't start, is it dead for a period of time, and then it starts? Or wont it start on the first attempt, then fire off on the second attempt? nipper

Well we havent SEEN a pic yet with the doors closed hehehehehehe nipper

not yet. nipper

You know what im thinking .... a shattered flexplate. nipper