nipper

A fiber optic cable would work, since they tend to be powered by LED's anyway. nipper

Check the fuel pump relay first by confirming there is power to the pump when the car is on. nipper

this is common as the gas gauges are horrible on these cars. Go use some techron gas additive, it cleans the fuel sensor. I use it once every 4 months. nipper

This is not my strongpoint. i have installed remote starters before and never came across this. It can be poor connection at a Tap someplace. nipper

Is that an oe o2 sensor in the car ?

Well the cause may be the 210,000 miles on it. A deep knock is a very bad thing. You have rod knock and it wont go away. I should know. I threw a connecting rod right out of the block because of the same knock that sort of came and went. Nothing you can do will get rid of it short of a rebuild or an engine swap. if ANYTHING i would make sure AAA is paid up and dont go on any long trips. Lifters will tick. Rod knock test is simple. Remove one spark plug wire at a time and see if the noise changes or goes away. if it does thats the cylinder with rod knock. nipper

And in most cases the Legacy parts that bolt up to them are far better then the original SVX parts. nipper

Then go ahead and use it. Some of the cleaners can harm the o2 sensor, but this one shouldnt. You dont spray anything on the o2 sensor ever (don't drop them either). nipper

there are a few things that can be very very bad. On ANY engine with aluminum heads , if it overheats and blows a HG the Cylinder heads have to be checked for warping. You say its the 2nd enine in this car. What has me concerned is if the cylinder liner moved. If you repeatedly overheat any aluminum block engine with steel liners, the liners can move, and the engine will never be fixable (well throw enough money at something and it can be fixed). If the car did not get a short block, i would wonder about that. I'm not one quick to condemn an engine, but in this case i would look at used engine. A bad radiator would show up within a 100 miles, not 40,000. What would show up in 40,000 miles is shifted cylinder sleeve, or cheap HG's. nipper

If it turns over fine with the key its the remote starter. nipper

O2 cleaner? Was that next to the blinker fluid? There is no such thing, and if there is, its snake oil. If the o2 sensor has more then 100,000 miles on it, and your going to go through all the heartache of removing it (it s easy, but alot of force is required due to rust), then just replace it. i googled o2 sensor cleaner and nothing came up. nipper

Does it have a warrenty, if so one word DEALER! Yes we can have lots of ideas whats wrong, but there are a few things you need to do first. Check the tranny oil level (look in your owners mnaul to see how). You can also get the tranny serviced. People will chime in about using redline lubricant. Next have the codes scanned. It can be as simple as a loose gas cap. It cna be something more complicated. Any autoparts chain store will read the codes for you. nipper

The light can be as reliable as beg ben, the gauge is not. The light is a seperate electronic doohicky. the reason why it comes ona and goes off is that the fuel level is constantly moving. When the sensor is uncovered the light comes on. Once the fuel drops down to 2 gallons (ish) left in the tank it comes on and stays on. Every car with a light operates the same way. nipper

This seems to be a very common problem on the 99's, as it keeps coming up alot. I am going to change my tune on this a little bit. It is a sign that something is going intenally, either the front pump is worn or the internal seals are worn. Usually its a sign of impennding doom, and the only fix is a overhaul or replacement. I have done some research on this (and yes 99's seem the majority year with this problem). See if you can live with it. I have read about people who have had this problem for many many many miles and it hasnt ogtten worse. As long as the delay is from r-n-d and not d-3-2-1 or staring off from a stop sign. The only true way to determin what is going on This would tell you the condition of the front pump and the internals, but a REPUTABLE (read non chain transmission ) shop has to do it.is to throw pressure gauges on the transmission and road test it. nipper

SOunds like dirty switches to me. Actually an emery board may work better then contact cleaner depending upon how burnt they are. I dont remeber if there are little springs in the switches (prbbly are) so proceed carefully. nipper

Lets start waith basics, when was the last time ANYTHING was done on the car, tune up, timing belt etc. Next check for spark while someone else cranks the engine over. How handy are you with tools? nipper

If you are really caareful, you can take the switches apart and clean the contacts, usually that solves the problem. nipper

Nothing that goes in the intake can damage the O@ sensor. It gets incinerated at 1800 degrees C and 15,000 PSI combustion conditions. If the problem was there before the silicon, and there after, you can rule out the silicon. Have you checked for codes? When was the last tim the car had a tuneup? Did you check for vacum leaks? Si the EGR valve behaving itself? nipper

If the sensor is dead, it wont throw a code. If it is dying it will throw a code. It's one of those odd things of the OBD system. thats why i say its a tool and not the definitive answer. Check them both for heartbeats. nipper

i like that kit, ill have to investigate it more, as i have 2 questions, whats the bulb life and how much is a replacement bulb. nipper

Ah yes falling for the marketing myth.. You need to look at the Hp AND torque, as well as when they happen. Cubic inches beats RPM for displacement and longevity everytime. GTO 400 HP at 5200 rpm 400 lb-ft torque at 4000 Rpm WRX STI 230hp at 5600rpm 235 lb-ft torque at 3600 Rpm Another thing is that the HP numbers on high perfomance engines are watered down for insurance reasons. Its one area where the insrunace companies dont test themselves. Numbers tend to be rounded down once they hit a specific level for a given displacement. Not to mention they just changed the way they state HP numbers, so all the numbers across the board are lower. Torque numbers have not been changed. nipper

you need an analog meter. Check the heartbeat on the cam and crank sensors (its an AC signal). Thats where you start. Check that the sensors are clean and that all the teeth are on the crank and cam. I dont remebr if you have an ignitor, if you do make sure its getting power. nipper

Lets just add that you do it WITOUT breaking the front end loose :-p nipper

We try Glad it worked out nipper

Timing belt covers ... if the car is going to see deep mud or snow, you should have them. Otherwise to each their own. People have hed belts thrown by packed snow. Still not thrilled with the idea of any cleaner being in an engine that long. :-p nipper