nipper

Actually its not physicis its chemistry. From a vette board. "Windshield Haze or ‘Fog’: The vinyl used on vehicle dashboards contain plasticizers, these low molecular weight compounds maintain semi-rigid vinyl’s flexibility. The vinyl used in modern vehicle interiors vent (out-gassing) these are the plasticizers evaporating (more prevalent on newer vehicles or a dash with freshly applied vinyl dressing) Crack open vehicle windows when parked to allow the gasses to vent. UV and heat radiation will also cause the plasticizers to dry out, resulting in a chemical film that when combined with road oils, dirt and grease introduced via by the vehicles a/c system results in a stubborn haze or fog that forms a cohesive bond with the interior glass surfaces. " seems like Armorol can add to the problem. Seems like everyone has it including a canadian complaint of new transit busses. The vet site continues "Wipe glass with a damp waffle weave towel; apply Stoners Invisible GlassTM, to 100% cotton micro fibre cloth and rub glass surface with a light to medium pressure (it will dry streak-free / lint-free) If after cleaning there is still a persistent ‘fog / haze’ pour some Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) on to a clean dry cloth and agitate surface film." i have never heard of this product. nipper

Actually there is another possability and there is nothing you can do about it. My 97 obw does the same thing. This is actually a common complaint on most cars. The dashboard is plastic, and with the automotive plastics of the last 15 years, they are constantly degassing (notice how rare it is to see a cracked dash these days). The degassing leaves a film on the windsheild. Add umidity to that mix and you get fog. i tried chronically cleaning the windsheild but gave up. Even an open window doesnt help all the time. Don't let anyone make you thnk you have a leaky heatercore, as this fog is a common thing. It seems to be more common on cars as the windshield rake continues to get steeper. you just have to live with it. Newer cars i think they reformulated the plastic, im not sure. nipper

hard 1-2 and soft 2-3 is normal subaru nipper

why is it wrong? nipper

have you tried swapping this valve with one from a donar car? maybe there is something odd in the valve that we arent seeing or cant see without a scope (like sluggish response) nipper

thats telling you that something needs to be addressed asap. NEVER ignore a blinking light. nipper

yes there are. ido a search here. Just if you have that and TB then you need to go to a repair shop asap, like i had. SO i never bothered pulling them. nipper

At that mileage have somone inspect the clutch cable if so equiped. They do start to frey with age. nipper

The light operates to tell you there was a failure on the previous drive. If you start the car then shut it off, then re start it, since the car didnt move, there would be no failure. nipper

catlayst is a tired o2 sensor, if that is a truthful reading. Get a new ECU then check. nipper

Anything mechanical can get stuck and still work electrically. Also it can be weak and get stuck that way. I would get it fixed. nipper

you should have taken it back when it first showed up.Transmission places are evil, too late now, but i would have gone to a dealer and let them diagnose it. The trannys are bullit proof, and its not unusual for the awd to go as the car gets around 200,000 miles. i would still take it back,. Driving the car as long as you have with TB you may have wrecked another set of clutches. nipper

whenever you get a "new" car its a good idea to change all the fluids so you have a starting point. btw tranny fkluid is 30,000 miles, 15000 or once a year if towing a trailer. Turbo automatics dont last forever like NA , so do change the fluid regularly. nipper

fame and fortune. There are a lot of crackpot ideas out there, just because someone is pushing it doesnt mean its any good. New cars do maximize combustion, older cars dont, which really is the point he is addressing. They have to maximize it otherwise the cats get very very angry. Subaru engines by design are fairly free flowing mechanically. The restrictions for the ea82 is the exhaust desighn. The ea82 would be a possible (doubtfully) candidate for this. Newer engines could things worse. Maybe post this on the older subaru board. nipper

plug wires should be OE. Fuel filter needs to be changed. You need to think about the timing belt, as the age is determined by 1000 miles a month, so even though your mileage is low. 80,000 miles is 80 months for example. PCV valve should be OE. New T stat (oe) and radiator cap. New coolant. OE airfilter or name brand is the best in all truthfullness. WHen in doubt about lubricant, use name brand for the diffs. nipper

everyone is so complicated, lets start over and more simply. Have you sprayed the coils and wires with water at night and look for spark leakage. Cracked coil towers will cause this. the coils are in pairs 1-2 and 3-4. Check those, and clean the MAF sensor. Also spray the wires leading to the coils. Check the crank position sensor for dirt Check the knock sensor. Also and sadly, double check the engine timing. If the cam and crank sensor are out of synch, it may give you a missfire code. Check this one especially if the car was running smooth before nipper

http://www.altostandard.com/instruct1.htm a good description of sounds. Also one more possablility is that the throw out bearing is loose on the clutch fork and rattling around. http://www.procarcare.com/includes/content/resourcecenter/encyclopedia/ch20/20TSclutch.HTML Do change the lubricant. Could be a tired pilot bearing. nipper

look at crutchfeilds on line catalog. You dont need to buy there but its a good resource nipper

may be as simple as an angry o2 sensor, or wet connections, but we need codes nipper

PPS the more i read the article more i started laughing. Talk of rearranging molcules in a ballet is funny. N2 is an inert gas and its "even" distribution with the remaining 21% of Oxygen (O2) along with the unstable hydrocarbon molecules gives rise to a truly ideal homogeneous mixture within the compressing charge prior to ignition. Grooving brings about a ballet between the non-combustible molecules and a small percent of unstable Hydrocarbon molecules as the cylinder diminishes bringing them ever closer, causing friction between the two, leading to heat build-ups as the piston forms the combustion chamber at TDC. If it was that simple to seperate elements we would have H2 filters on our water taps. Not to mention the "unstable hydrocarbon" molecules are extreemly stable. Maybe they meant volitile. This paragraph gives me a headache, so many things wrong with it i dont even know where to start. Hydrocarbons are long chain molecules made up of atoms, they dont *poof* become atoms. What follows after ignition is a chemical reaction, due to the applied heat spreading into the Hydrocarbons and popping them into atoms in the presence of Oxygen, to start a thermal reaction called 'combustion' resulting in instant by-products of molecules made up of H2O in the form of super heated steam along with CO2 bringing about some fantastic expansions in the buffer gases largely made up of Nitrogen, due to the even heat build-ups in the confined chamber achieved out of grooving. It is this 'rapid expansion' within the spread-out Nitrogen molecules, making up the largest and heaviest expanding commodity trapped within the cylinder along with the fast-expanding super-heated steam that are collectively responsible for acting forcefully on the piston in an expanding cylinder to propel all types of IC Engines by spinning the crankshaft with the help of pistons & conrods ! ok ill stop:clap: my head hurts, but i wan some of what they are smoking

no. Turbulance in the wrong place can cause a stumble or worse and some rpms. ENgineer to engineer.... the auto market is so competative and bloodthirsty for every inch of torque and ounce of HP if this worked then it would have been done. One of the most engineered parts of an engine is the intake and exhaust system, and how they interact with the valve train. In the old days when air and fuel were in the exhast mainifold, you wanted some turbulance to help stir things up. Thats when they used to port and polish the heads, but not too polished, as some of that roughness helped with the turbulance to mix things. Now with air only in the manifold, you want to get that air to the tip of the fuel injector asap. After the air gets sprayed with fuel, thats when you want turbulance. Turbulance is generated at the area right before the valve by the angle of the valve (not the faces) and piston design, and sometimes by the manifold itself. Each mfg has his own little trick. HAving turbulance before the desighned induced point of turbulance, you can really screw things up. We are talking about very high speeds of air flow, and being a compressable medium, is not always predictable. The next problem is to make this optimal at all engine parameters, so naturally there is a little tradeoff. Now for specific duty engines, you can toy with things (race cars for example) to optimize thier effeciencies at particular rpms. With a road engine that is tough. Now if you go dickering with this, you can easily make a car undriveable. You can also make the emissions worse. nipper PS it seems like he is talking about deisels (squish and quench usual deisel terms), more then spark ignition engines. Also i tried to trace the patent and no such patent exists. Also there is more propaganda on that site, i would need to see proper dyno testing by anindependent lab before i beleive it. If you can find a real link, can you show me please? ALso it is being apllied to older engines, since they state (in very unprofessional ways) Seems like this only for older engines, and there is nothing new here. "The best part of this simple groovy mod is, you can hack your own head to bring about these 'sudden' changes in your very own old engines with just basic hand tools & a little application of common sense ! " http://somender-singh.com/content/view/102/52/

Antenna will do it. nipper

buy a deck with a weatherband? nipper

car needs a tranny. its slipping in third gear. Poweer light can be telling you any number of things, from a failed AWD system to fried solenoids in the tranny. Does it feel like its going into neutral, or that it slides and then goes into neutral.. hard to describe. Check the fluid, burnt or brown, the tranny is shot. nipper

how deep was the water. Did the car stall in the water at any time? Basically you have water someplace the car doesnt like. The lowest thing would be the 02 sensor. Next thing to be upset would ignition wires at the plugs, then it could be any number of sensors after that. How many miles on the car When was the last time it had new wires on it. Can you get the codes pulled from an auto store. Fresh or salt water nipper