nipper

I'm not exactly sure what you are trying to say? radiators dont stop flowing unless the thermostat closses. If you mean te car is over heating, most likely cause is a clogged raditor. If it is boiling over, check to see if you have heat. If you dont its a possible head gasket. Is the resivoir full or overfull? nipper

It comes down to wheel thrust. http://www.webcalc.net/calc/0774.php Wheel thrust is simple, the higher the number the faster the get up and go Lets use simple numbers wheel thrust = drive wheel torque / rolling radius (from axle to ground) 200 ftlbs of torque/ (assume a rolling radius of 10") .83' = 240 lbs of thrust 200 ftlbs of torque/ (assume a rolling radius of 12") 1.0' = 200 lbs of thrust As you can see larger the tire, less push at the axle. What you do gain is however is less engine rpm and better gas mileage (in theory). Also with less thrust you get more torque at the rear wheel. The more force it takes to move something, the more thrust will be needed. So unless Now add in the rolling resistance of a wider tire, and hte heavier car, it wont accelerate as fast as the older car. nipper

Word of advice, use the search engine (topic and the posters nic), otherwise you will get flooded with hits, especially on TB and HG. nipper

http://www.misterfixit.com/pcvvalve.htm nipper

PCV will cause this problem. And yes you need a tuneup and maybe an 02 sensor. nipper

i dont ever recalling anyone just doing the C on a car with that mileage. If you havent been driving it i guess it can be done, just dont be surprised if the clutchs are tired also. People here have replaced thier C before, ild say do a search, but there is most likely too may posts here to find it. I can send you a pdf on a newer tranny (most likely the same ) on how its done. It just requires removla of the pan and valve body. nipper

IN NYC (tow capitol of the world it seems at times) the courts have found repeatedly that the tow operator is liable for any damages or mising property from the car. Their job is to secure and safely transport property. From what i remeber from my law classes trhis is universal. The problem is proof. You have no idea how many people lost Monet's in thier trunk after being towed. nipper

OBD II is much better then OBD I , or worse OBD none I think we have taken you as far as we can, try one more thing. MAke sure there are no shorts/opens in the harmess itself, hook a meter up to the ends and wiggle the wire to make sure there is no broken wire. Confirm that, then it will be safe to plug in another ecu. nipper

Ok thats a realtivly short distance, thats no worse then what one would do on a flat tire looking of a place to pull over. *whew* nipper

You should have done it twice to get all the junk tou (actually three times is what we recomend here). YOu will still have to get it looked at, as the solenoid has some sort of issues. There are two parts to the system, the solenoid and an internal spool valve. I would do a full flush and see if there is just some gunk making the solenoid stick, but it sounds to me like the solenoid is weak. nipper

lots of money in the 600.00 range. You can do it yourself if you want. Run a car fax report on the car to make sure thats real mileage. nipper

closely examin the terminals in the connector. Make sure they are al the same height. It is possible to pop the individual terminals out of the connector, but practice on one from a junker. That is the one true way to clean it, then pop it back in. Make sure the battery is disconeected for this. nipper

Beofre you change gears, look at the torque band and see what rpm it comes in. If you go too far out of that range, the car may have problems with throttle response, hills, and passing at highway speeds. Everything in engineering is a tradeoff, keep that in mind. nipper

thats a problem with a reliable car. For some parts there havent been enough failures to have them in the supply stream yet. At least you didnt have to buy a new one. nipper

very very bad. The ball joint pops all sorts of unwanted excitment can happen, not forgetting that entire death thing. BJ give lots of hints they are going bad. you have your hint. If the ball joint snaps, there is no upper control arm. At the very least the car sits funny and scrapes the road. At the very worst you loose control of the car and hit somone and or something. There is also all the other damage that can happen to the car body, chassis, and other assorted parts. nipper

You most likely have a duty C failure of some kind. The duty c can be stuck, burned out, shorted, name your poisin. Now with the age on the car, im going to assume it has some miles on it. Make sure your sitting down when you hear the price of the repair. The TB will also make the rear end wear out faster. Now the clunk. The clunk is fairly easy. What you are hearing is your driveshaft winding up under TB. WHen you put the car in park or neutral you are suddenly unloading the driveline, hence the clunk. Bad news is that that is your universal joints complaining. Get the car to a shop asap, before you do alot more damage. Try the FWD fuse, but i get the feeling its not going to work. If it does all the better, but i needs to be fixed. The chunk of metal. The rear will give LOTS of warning before it slef destrusts if it is a ring gear. IF its a planetary gear the car will make a weird noise out of the rear at 2Xs the wheel speed. IN a awd car you may not even notice that, but keep an eye on it. Rear diffs are relativly tough. nipper

yes it will, but not so much that the oil never warms up. There sint anything wrong with warm trannny fluid, its hot tranny fluid that is bad. Also hydraulic fluid isnt like water. It holds heat longer, takes longer to heat up, and longer to cool down. So it shouldnt be a big thing. nipper

sometimes you just have to swap them out and find out. nipper

no bicuit for you. yes it does reset, and you also reset the computers, and wiped out all the memory of your driving pattern and habits (the car know you like that drivethrough way too much ) So its no weird that it is running better, give it a month or so to relearn how you drive. nipper

i read that as 50,000 dollars:rolleyes: SOUnds good, but you know as soon as you get it you have to do the timing belt seals waterpump and change the fluids thing. nipper

hrmmmmm the hydraulic clutch, stuff happens. The desighn of a diaphram type clutch is intersting in one aspect. As the clutch wears, the diaphram (it being a flat spring) applies more force as it wears. Like any spring, it takes far more force to initally get the spring to compress, then once its compressed. As you approach this (end of) spring travel, you will find the same thing. Maybe this is what you got used to, i dont know , just an idea. nipper

MUHAHAH thats a harmond kardon idrive. It's an ipod controller and interface. i got it on ebay for 70.00 (usually 160-200). Thats the display, the control wheel is mounted on the console. nipper

maybe its mine from the 80's

me its all about me, this site hates me and my pictures... its an electronic conspriacy..... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showgallery.php?cat=915 nipper

OK all the nounting is done. My Dr yelled at me so i have to take a few days off before i wire the tail light. Also are pics of the idrive controller, scan gauge, and the driving/fog light switchs. Its located in the album called nipper (damn digital cameras pick up every spec of dirt) nipper