nipper

STOP TEMPTING me you heathen nipper

have the dealer put in the conditioner, its never too late. Also if it is really tough to find, you may have to let a shop look for it. They can put a dye in the coolant and use a black light to try to find the leak. nipper

ME TOO ME TOO! nipper

miles people how many miles? Describer hard shift. Does it shift easier with car off, the clutch in, and just running it through the gears? nipper

How many miles on the car. When the car has an issue directly correlated with a repeated parimeter, look at the sensors. I would suspect the engine temp sensor for the ECU (not the one for the temperiture gauge). Before digging too deep you may want to get the codes scanned to see if you have any. Also if you can rent a scanner, it will tell you the engine temp on the fly. If the sensor has an open, it should show you an open or no temperiture reading when the car stalls. My next two choices would be the few sensors that can make the car die. That would be the cam and crank senors, and i would look at the ignitor. When the car dies, do you have spark? Can you hear the fuel injectors clicking (or using a test light see if they get a signal). nipper

Actually the AWD computer will notice the drastic differnce in speed between the front and rear of the car after 50mph and stop trying to correct for it. Also popping an axle will put no load on the AWD clutch pack, so it wont do any harm. Now if you had too small a tire on that wheel causing drag on the clutch pack, thats a differnt story. The AWD uses speed sensors, one in the tranny, one in the spedometer (if you have a spedo cable), or the vss sensor for the spedo. There are also 4 speed sensors one at each wheel for the ABS. I dont know if the bulb will go out if you yank the fuse for the abs but it is worth a shot. nipper

He said its a 98 as i got corrected once on the lifters .. grrr nipper

Spark continously? or spark at the apropriate time? Can you hear the fuel injectors operating when the car dies? nipper

ditto, and cam/main seals. nipper

there is nothing wrong with the hill holder. Weither you have a bad clutch fork, or a throw out bearing problem. COUld be the throw out bearing is cocking and getting stuck. nipper

SInce it is happening regularly check the cooling system for bubbles or the presence of exhaust gasses. I think you have a blown HG myself, but removing the cap (when cold) and starting the car, watching for bubles, it should be real obvious. nipper

The ignitor when it goes bad can either totally cut out, not start at all, or act like the car is running out of gas. Check for spark the next time the car dies. It may be the ignitor, i doubt its the fuel pump. A fuel pump the car either would not start, or hesitate badly under full throttle or at high speeds. The fuel systems on these cars are fairly robust. They are electric motors with no parts to wear, and motors usually work or they dont. Check the fuel pump relay to make sure it is working right. nipper

Final drive is an old expression. It can mean high gear (if the seller is over 70), transfer sace, or differnential. In any case it means it needs a tranny. nipper

did you lubircate the sliders? Also did you use the little metal shims that go behind the brake pads? nipper

you should see all the engineering that goes into a drive belt, its scary. Its hard to put a "tread" on a serpitine belt, as both sides of the belt is used. It would be like putting treads on the inside of the tire too. on a V belt all the work is done on the angular side of the belts, and not the flat part. The "treads" in a belt are made to be compresed, not elongated. they would elongate as they went over a reverse pully. nipper

hehehe gets them all the time nipper

Sounds like you have a loose/dirty connection someplace. Start by checking the fuses and the relays. nipper

Begin by getting the valve cover gasket kit, then remove the spark plug wires, onbolt the valve cover gasket. Do NOT pry the cover off, rap it with a rubber mallot if it wont budge. Make sure all the old gasket is removed. Do not use selant. make sure the valve cover is not warped. remove old o rings. again make sure all surfaces are clean. tighten the bolts in a X pattern, do NOT over tighten as it will leak. Anyone know a torque spec for these bolts that can be put in english (like 1/2 turn past finger tight). I am guessing you dont have a torque wrench. That should be it. nipper

The cross peices tell you what direction they go in. nipper

Timing belt off by a tooth, the car will not start. Why are you so sure it is not the coil pack. I would look at the ignitor (which actually fires the coil) first, then check the cam and crank position sensor. i am not sure, but it should be running off the cam sensor. nipper

Master cylinders leak internally too. First test with the car off pump the brake 10 times. put your foot on the brake pedal. If the pedal goes to the floor, the power booster is fine, and you need a master cylinder. If it doesnt go to the floor you need a booster (and maybe a master cylinder as they both act the same). My gut tells me you need a master cylinder, and probably should have replaced all the brake lines too. nipper

my97 OBW does this, i turn up the stereo. Look to see if the cross beams are installed backwards. They are directional and can make wind noise. Also they do come off it reall does drive you nuts. nipper

Check the obvious. inspect the cable and its clamps. DO you feel the vibration in the pedal itself, or on the floor at the pedal? nipper

The switch is broken. Where is the switch located (i dont remeber). i would pull the switch and disconnect it, then put the flasher back in and you should have turn signals again nipper